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EFV-8 Club Forum / Light Commercial Truck Discussion / electronic conversion for 46 dual point system

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Discussion Topic: electronic conversion for 46 dual point system -- page: 1 2

whitecap

08-21-2017 @ 1:31 PM

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This is a 6 V pos. grnd., 8 cylinder engine. Has any one here done this type of conversion? If so, whose product did you go with?

ken ct.

08-21-2017 @ 9:14 PM

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Question is WHY. The ford pancake dist was desighned by Mallory himself and is very reliable. Electronic dist are very prone to heat failier and theres plenty of that under the hood of a flathead. Bad move. omo ken ct.

whitecap

08-22-2017 @ 5:51 AM

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In my mind it would remove the need for the amount of disassembly to change and adjust points periodically. It seems that one set of points where is much quicker than the other. The one set of contactors shows excessive panting and must be filed smooth to be reset. Thanks for your info as I was unaware

ken ct.

08-22-2017 @ 6:04 AM

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The rabbit eared dist and crab are the easiest to remove and replace to work on of all the ford dist. If pitting is that deep I would replace them not file them , and replace the cond. Use a NAPA # IH-200. Very reliable. ken ct.

ford38v8

08-22-2017 @ 10:36 AM

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Whitecap, listen to Ken. You never had better advice in your life.

Alan

whitecap

08-22-2017 @ 11:19 AM

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Will do fellas. Thank you for all your input. Will replace that one set and replace the cond. with NAPA #IH-200. Have you developed a way to remove the dist, without needing to remove fan assm. and both belts? That was the main reason I was investigating going electronic. Trying to avoid standing on the bumper and almost going upside down to get at it. This old body doesn't bend like it used to ( it doesn't unbend so good either).

len47merc

08-22-2017 @ 11:48 AM

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The 'need' to routinely (EDIT - or 'excessively') remove your distributor to dress and reset or change your points should be completely eliminated by having your entire electrical system operating at peak performance. This includes having the distributor properly set-up on a Sun or Allen machine. I have colleagues here in NC that routinely and completely rework their distributors themselves and they are seeing 5,000 miles give or take out of their points. I have other colleagues, plus myself, who have theirs (ours) set-up on the correct equipment using QUALITY components. I have ~8,750 miles on mine and it still runs like the day I installed it. A colleague about 100 miles or so from here is leading the pack of all us in our modest group, and is the benchmark for our collective tests, with almost 19,000 miles on his '46, and it still starts immediately when he hits the button and shows not even the slightest hint of a miss when under load in 3rd gear, such as when loaded with 2-3 passengers and running at lower rpms in 3rd gear up hills or simply not shifting out of 3rd at 90 degree turns and pushing back up to speed.

The reason I say 'need' with apostrophes is that I do not believe there is a need to have to perform this so often as to be burdensome if one ensures the system is properly set-up and operating at peak efficiency. The points, if properly faced and are mating as close to perfectly flush as possible, should last much, much longer than the average joe believes. The only reason to remove the distributor routinely, IMHO, is to add a drop of oil to the bushings. When out of course you can examine the points and if it was properly set-up originally you will find little to no need to even draw a piece of emery paper through them, much less reset them or change them. Again IMHO, and per my experience to date with my '47, and per input and observation from and of local colleagues.

EDIT2 - The quality points in my distributor, now with ~8,750 miles and counting on them, were supplied to me by ken ct. They were installed in the distributor and the distributor was set up on an Allen machine by John Shelor in Va.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 8-22-17 @ 12:03 PM

whitecap

08-23-2017 @ 10:43 AM

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Well Sir: I certainly don't have access to one of the special machines you mentioned. Just trying to keep my grand fathers truck going with a feeler gage. I do put NAPA points and condensers in when I do need to change them. I surely do appreciate the input.

cliftford

08-23-2017 @ 11:30 AM

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I agree with Steve. You cannot beat a stock ignition system in good condition in a stock engine. While desirable, it is not absolutely necessary to have it set up on a special machine. If the shaft is not badly worn. set the points to.016" and it should be very close and will run. My service manual shows how to do this by using a straight edge.

whitecap

08-23-2017 @ 1:21 PM

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Cliff: That's exactly how I have always done it with good success. Vehicle runs very smooth. It's the changing part that I would like to make easier. That was my original thinking on the electronic ignition question. Electronic ignition was a significant upgrade in the distributor world. Higher resulting voltages to the plugs and zero maintenance. There would be no point bounce at higher RPM's as well. It would mean a different coil and wires I'm sure.

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