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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / New guy with '41 Mercury coupe.

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Posted By Discussion Topic: New guy with '41 Mercury coupe.

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sq1954
04-28-2025 @ 4:37 PM
New Member
Posts: 106
Joined: Jan 2017
          
Hi Tom, I am Wayne from Oregon the next to last name in the Oregon club directory. I have done a lot of in depth research on 41 Mercurys for my convertible since 1973. I used to be a Ford dealership parts man. I can answer a lot of your questions. I was a part of the 19A registry done in the early 2000's. I have all the news letters sent out then. I can give you a general idea of when your car was produced.

TomC750
12-02-2024 @ 6:02 PM
Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Nov 2024
          
I did use my brother's puller, worked great, K R Wilson I believe.

TomE

TomC750
11-21-2024 @ 7:25 AM
Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Nov 2024
          
All good suggestions. The car runs sweet and smooth like a flathead Ford should. I loaded it up on the trailer under its own power with no problem. First thing I did after getting it home was change the oil. I drove it up and down the driveway a few times, it runs like new with no smoke. The last thing that was done service wise according to the owner was a distributor rebuild. I will be checking that out as I have done a number of them over almost 70 years of experience. Yes 70. I have rebuilt countless Stromberg 93 and 97's and Ford carbs and solved problems with "upside down" Holleys for others. I am not ready to give up yet. Just don't ask me to reupholster an interior!

Tom

This message was edited by TomC750 on 11-21-24 @ 7:31 AM

Rockfla
11-21-2024 @ 6:36 AM
Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Mar 2019
          
Absolutely
As Bruce pointed out in the above post. For me, a good healthy dose of Marvel Mystery Oil down the intake manifold as well as a good healthy dose in each of the cylinders would be my first step. As Bruce mentioned, pull the plugs and like to use a good old fashion oil squirt can with the flexible metal hose on it, that way you can kind of bend it so you can squirt MMO all around the diameter of the cylinder and get a good coating over the entire circumference of the piston and cylinder walls. After a good dose of the MMO treatment, let it soak for a few days before you attempt to turn the engine by hand!!!

Good call Bruce!!!

This message was edited by Rockfla on 11-21-24 @ 6:40 AM

nelsb01
11-20-2024 @ 2:55 PM
Senior
Posts: 1095
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If you decide to ship all your fuel and distributor items out.....you will have time to check to see if you can crank over the motor.

A large breaker bar on the crankshaft nut with the plugs removed should tell you if it will turn over and then start in about 3 or 4 turns of the motor when everything returns from the re-builders.

If not, then you have some more things to check out. Remember, sitting around for years is not an old cars friend.

This message was edited by nelsb01 on 11-20-24 @ 4:04 PM

Rockfla
11-20-2024 @ 8:07 AM
Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Mar 2019
          
You haven't mentioned getting it running, YET. I say this as what I am going to suggest to you takes some time and shipping time SO depending on your schedule and how quickly you want to get this vehicle running. I would take the coil off and box it up and send it to Skip Haney at 29436 Taralane Drive, Punta Gorda FL 33982 and have him work his magic with your coil...About $115 including return shipping. IF you want you can also send your distributor and condenser along with the coil IF you like, he rebuilds and sets the dwell and timing in those as well. Take your carburetor and fuel pump and box that up and send that to Charlie Schwindler in New York and let Charlie rebuild your carburetor and fuel pump....you can also send you distributor (not coil) to Charlie as well, he does the same work as Skip. Charlie Schwindler 5845 Cole Road, Orchard Park NY 14127. You can also send your distributor to Michael at Third Gen in McMinnville TN.....he is also a wiz-bang with distributors as well. When you get all four of those Items back...its "Plug & Play" I would bet, once you install them back on your car...with a good fresh battery and good fresh clean fuel...it will start in about 3 or 4 turns of the motor.....Its the best assurance and insurance that you will buy for almost instant success headache FREE!!!!

This message was edited by Rockfla on 11-20-24 @ 8:10 AM

TomC750
11-20-2024 @ 6:24 AM
Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Nov 2024
          
Rockfla, Appreciate your advice on the jute and puller. Regarding the puller, I learned that my brother who raced vintage stock cars back in the day still has his! I will be able to borrow it when we visit Thanksgiving. It is probably a good one. I'll let you know how I make out.

Tom

Rockfla
11-20-2024 @ 5:12 AM
Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Mar 2019
          
Tom, congratulations on your Mercury purchase. As for the "jute" backing, I would maybe check with a couple of auto interior shops in your area and see IF maybe they either have some scr*p OR can maybe order some for you. As for the rear hub puller, there are several pullers of various styles out there on the used market as well as new. KR Wilson was sort of the first/Ford used puller....originals command a fair price....I bought a new one from a company called Vintage Precision in California....Its probably the most expensive puller out there....Around $200 by the time you get it shipped in to you......BUT....IMO.....it is THE best puller for rear drums on the market, bar none. I also have "Several" V8's to use it on SO I was able to easily justify the purchase. Without a doubt (even only using it twice in the 4-5 years I have had it) is the best $200 "ish" I have ever spent and the first tool I would recommend for the "specialized V8 Ford tool only" drawer in my tool box!!!! For comparison, Michael at Third Gen Automotive in McMinnville TN offers a "economy puller" for $55. plus shipping. Michael would also be a great source for your brake job parts needs. Add his number to your "speed dial" or to your favorites on your web browser.

Thirdgenauto.com 844-327-5988

This message was edited by Rockfla on 11-20-24 @ 5:14 AM

TomC750
11-19-2024 @ 3:29 PM
Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Nov 2024
          
I recently purchased my car at a farm auction. There were no other serious bidders, we got it quite reasonable. The car was restored about 25 years ago (frame off) and has been stored in a barn for maybe 15 years. The owner was not available to get more specifics, I hope to learn more through contacting him. Now, to put all in perspective, I am reverting to my younger years, as my first car was a '41 Merc coupe! I am no stranger to Ford flatheads, I have had a number of them, Including an 8NV8. tractor I built.

I do however need some advice. First of all, we (wife and I) trailered this prize from Ohio to Tennessee in the driving rain, and the car missing door seals it got wet inside. I removed the carpeting along with the jute padding which did not fare well. I have not found a source for the padding in large pieces. Source? Secondly, I sprayed all fabric surfaces with Febreze which did not help much with the musty odor. Put charcoal inside as well, with a bit of improvement. Ideas? Secondly, the brakes took a leave of absence while in storage, so I am doing a complete brake job. I recall having a "blind nut" on the rear axle as a means to free up the hub. Cannot locate it now, so is utilizing one the best route, or a puller? I have not been able to free up the drums separately. Any and all advice appreciated.

Tom


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