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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / Ford Script battery

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Discussion Topic: Ford Script battery -- page: 1 2

myoldcar

10-09-2009 @ 7:25 AM

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I am trying to find a Ford Script battery (high Ford/fits 1948) that is already gutted. I tried to do it myself to hold an Optima and am in a mess. Any ideas?

TomO

10-09-2009 @ 5:07 PM

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Cleaning out a battery case for an Optima battery is a dirty job. I don't know where you can get a cleaned out case, but you can purchase an Optima in a Ford script case here:
http://www.gearstogo.com/public_html/autolite_ford.htm

If you describe the mess, maybe someone will have another solution for you.

Tom

richmv8

10-11-2009 @ 2:09 PM

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RE: "Optima Battery" in old Ford Script battery case.

Hi, There are some serious safety issues (gas explosion) and other tips discussed in several articles on this issue of making your own hidden Optima battery in a Ford script case. Go to the "V8 Times Searchable Index" on this website to see the issues of V8 Times (search "Optima Battery" also see "Faux battery"). You should read the articles (assuming you have the back issues) if you haven't already. The most important as I recall was to make sure you DO NOT make an air tight seal on the battery case. A discrete hidden hydrogen gas exit hole near the top rear might be the appropriate thing to do for safety. The Optima MUST VENT like any lead-acid battery (which it is but only in gel cel construction) when it is being charged and even its own case has a small web covered vent if you look closely.

I don't know where you live, but in So. Calif. there is a very reliable lead-acid automotive battery rebuilder that may have some used empty Ford script cases around (group 2HF - 120 AH tall case) available if they haven't just scrapped or recycled them. They usually can rebuild original true tar-top cases for about $85.00. They are quite good. Of course that is for local customers (So. Calif) since they are delivered wet charged ready to install.

In your situation, you would not have to have a perfect leak free case, so if someone had a case with a small crack (unsuitable for rebuilding), that might work fine (just hot glue it or use some internal fiberglass webbing and resin perhaps to strengthen and seal the crack so it doesn't get any worse). Then install your hidden Optima battery - assuming it fits.

The old time battery shop and rebuilder I deal with is:
ABC Battery, Inc.
10810 Garfield
South Gate, CA 90280
(562) 861-0356
FAX: (562) 861-5326
Jerry Sheek, pres. or speak with Danny

There may be a similar shop in your area that rebuilds batteries (it is still a viable business for marine, industrial, big trucks and antique autos).

C&G Early Ford Parts sells a complete ready to go package of their special script cases plus the Optima battery and the various models are listed in their catalog (or on-line). You probably know about them and they are expensive by the time you add freight. Their package is currently $299.95 plus shipping. Here is the link to C&G Early Ford Parts Optima battery page:
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40/ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=17&g=129&t=958&tn=

I do not know of anyone who sells the empty cases OEM since C&G and the two major reproduction battery companies seem to have the exclusive on the script cases for this application at the moment probably due to Ford licensing of the case logo. Visits to a local swap meet might find an old Ford Script battery that someone has saved for rebuilding and you could haggle your best deal with them.

It would be interesting for you to post your "mess" as the other correspondent stated, so that we might all learn from your experience.

By the way, your '48 Mercury would have used a "Ford" oval script battery when it was supplied new (either the 100 AH or heavy duty 120 AH). The Mercury script cases were not applicable until at least 1954 or 1955. The logo on those is the modern style Mercury icon.

My recommendation to anyone with a real original Ford or Mercury is to buy an excellent reproduction dry charged lead-acid battery in the Ford script case and proper style and configuration (6 volt or 12 volt) from either Antique Auto Battery (sealed top edge design with removable caps) or New Castle Battery (tar top design) directly from either company and have them shipped out to you. You can buy the correct battery acid from a good local parts store (they may have to order it for you for next day delivery). Both companies have websites. Learn to maintain it properly if you don't drive your Merc every week. A small Battery Tender type trickle charger is a good way to prevent it from premature sulfation due to normal self discharge. Make sure your charging system is working well and keep the battery and cables clean and corrosion free.

The Optima is a great low maintenance battery, but is more expensive to configure and tricky to package as you are finding out. I keep one around for booster jump starting, but don't have one installed in my cars. They should crank an engine even after a month of no recharging, but ideally, they need a trickle charger too.

Best of luck and regards,

Rich

This message was edited by richmv8 on 10-11-09 @ 4:58 PM

myoldcar

10-11-2009 @ 7:59 PM

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Thanks guys I appreciate the advice. For the record I shall give a brief blow by blow of my efforts. I purchased the correct Ford script battery for my Merc from Antique Auto battery and it has worked fine for just under two years. It had developed a slight crack along the top edge and leaks just enough acid to demand constant cleaning and touch up to keep the car squared away for the shows I do. Being aware of the Optima advantage, I decided to go ahead and clean out the old battery and slip it over my recently purchased Optima 6 volt. 10 pounds of baking soda and the loss of my religion later, she's cleaned out. Also bottom cut off and some attempts to remove iside panels and plates. Through lack of knowledge and a healthy dose of stupid I have managed to crack the areas surrounding the posts. Now I have a partially worked hull that I may or may not be able to salvage and that's why I turned to "Forum." I will use your suggestions and some other info I picked up at Hershey this weekend to try to move this project forward. My advice to anybody planning this little modification is just buy the whole dang thing lock and key and forget about cost, etc. I wish I had!

ford38v8

10-11-2009 @ 9:00 PM

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My lead acid script battery was on it's last legs when I first heard that an Optima was not only the way to go, but would also
fit inside the Script battery. At that time, there was only the word that it would work, and everyone had to come up with their
own plan. After thoroughly cleaning with water and baking soda, I set the battery out in the hot sun to melt the tar on top.
After scraping the tar onto a can lid for use on the finished product, I set up my drill press to cut out the areas surrounding
the Script lead connectors. This done, I used a hacksaw to remove the connectors, and set them aside along with the tar.

The delicate work completed, I set about to remove the rest of the top (after which the lead plates simply lifted out), and to
remove the ribs and the bottom. All this was made easier with various cutting tools in the drill press. I now had a see-
through case, to which I fitted the Optima. some additional trimming to both the case and the battery, and the job began to
take shape.

Carefully locating the Optima's terminal posts on a cut to size cardboard, I had a template to use in cutting a piece of .040
ABS that would simulate the top of the battery. Three sections of .087 ABS the size of the original sections of the battery
were then secured to the thin panel, leaving a "moat" that would later be filled with the previously removed tar.

The Script connectors were then drilled on the bottoms to accept threaded bolts which were soldered in. A simple nut and
washer on the underside of the ABS held the outside bolts secure, while the inside bolts required more ingenuity to secure,
due to interference with the top of the Optima itself. The finished panel was then JB Welded into the case. I had left a
perimeter on the inside to support this panel, so that job was made easy. The tar was then replaced into the top. giving the
battery the look it required.

Since that time, two modifications have been made to the Optima case, the first being a taller area surrounding the
terminals, which meant only a larger hole to be cut to accommodate them. The second and latest modification was to raise
the height of the entire battery by 3/8" which does present a formidable problem for some installations: For my '38, as well
as the '37 and the '39 Standard, the height is critical for correct mounting of the hold-down clamp. For other installations
the height of the battery is not so important.

Alan

36clubcab

10-11-2009 @ 11:49 PM

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The person who restored my 1936 ford put the battery box on the right fire wall much like a 1937,unfortunatly a battery leak caused some corrosion. therefore i must build a new one.can some one send me a picture of a 1937 battery box configeration mounted with several views. or advice on same. Thanks in advance
Sal

TomO

10-12-2009 @ 7:27 AM

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You may be able to salvage your case by using the procedure that Alan described. Instead of JB welding the top in place, I used 3M Strip Caulk, P/N 08578 to hold the top in place and fill in between the ABS sheets to simulate the tar on the original battery.

Because you removed the bottom of your battery, you will have to cut a spacer to fit inside the battery case. The spacer will have to be thick enough to bring the Optima posts up through the top of the case.

Tom

ford38v8

10-12-2009 @ 5:22 PM

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Tom, The Optima is already 3/8" taller than the case without the bottom.
No spacer is required, rather, a skirt around the base of the case to fill the
void.

Alan

TomO

10-13-2009 @ 9:06 AM

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Alan, the case for the 40-48 battery is taller than the 38-39 battery. The 2LF battery is 7 7/8" tall and the 2HF battery is 9 1/4" tall. The question was for a battery to fit a 1948 Ford which uses the 2HF and will require a spacer to raise the Optima up so the posts are at the correct height.

Tom

ford38v8

10-13-2009 @ 5:31 PM

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Tom, I wasn't aware that the later battery was so tall. I believe the '36 is
even shorter than the '37-'39.

Missed it by "that much"!

Alan

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