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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Carburetor Specifications for 1940

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Discussion Topic: Carburetor Specifications for 1940

robert993

02-11-2016 @ 9:39 AM

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My 1940 Ford runs excellent except much too rich. The engine is stock and was rebuilt 30 years ago. It has only been driven 1000 miles since then. I plan to order a rebuild kit for the carburetor, and need a recommendation on the best jet size and power valve specification. I live in northeast TN with an elevation of about 1800 ft.
Thanks.

ford38v8

02-11-2016 @ 10:35 AM

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Robert, Contact http://daytonaparts.com for your kit. It will include everything you need to rebuild your carb to the requirements of the fuel obtainable today. Use the phone number on the website to confirm your application and needs. Your stock carburetor is a 91-94.
Your jets should be .51, and your Power Valve should be 6.5.
Daytona is one of a very few suppliers who deliver a Power Valve that will fit the model 91-94 without modification.

From your description of the engine's age and mileage, I assume that it rarely gets on the open highway, and likely sees a great deal of driveway idling. This type of operation will produce the overly rich symptoms you are experiencing.

Alan

EDIT: Yes, Ken is correct, your carburetor is a Ford 94 Model 91-99. My bad! Actually any Ford/Holley 94 will have the same specifications, so my advice on jets and power valve is the same.

This message was edited by ford38v8 on 2-11-16 @ 7:56 PM

ken ct.

02-11-2016 @ 1:49 PM

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Robert check your PM's ken ct. BTW its a 91-99 not 91-94. Sorry Alan. lol

This message was edited by ken ct. on 2-11-16 @ 1:51 PM

kubes40

02-11-2016 @ 3:53 PM

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If you are comfortable with rebuilding your carburetor, I'd take Alan's good advice and get a kit from Dayton.
If you don't want to mess with it, the only guys I'd have confidence with are CharleyNY and UncleMax. Both guys can readily be found on the FordBarn. Charlie specializes in your carburetor type. He, unlike a guy that frequents this site, actually test the units prior to sending them out. He, as well as UncleMax do exceptional work and are both fair priced and prompt.

TomO

02-12-2016 @ 6:40 AM

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If your engine starts fine, idles fine at 450-500 rpm and drives fine, I would think twice about rebuilding the carburetor. Many times a nice running car is turned into a problem car by making improvements.

Before making the decision, put in a new set of spark plugs,hat have been gapped at.025 and take the car for a ride that is at least 30 minutes long. when you end the drive, do not let the engine idle for more than a few seconds before shutting down. Pull the plugs and read the color. If you still see a rich condition, then either rebuild the carburetor or have it rebuilt.

Daytona Carburetor has a very good kit, but their float valve is touchy to get a correct fuel level. I prefer the steel needle and seat and set the level about 1/32" - 1/16" low to compensate for the corn gas.

With the Daytona valve, I have had success at 1/16"-3/32" low.

The cardboard gauge must be held exactly 90 degrees to the carburetor top when adjusting the level.

Tom

ken ct.

02-12-2016 @ 7:40 AM

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Thank you Tom ,All rubber accelerator pumps also seem to be a problem. I use his kits too with a few modifications. ken ct.

robert993

02-12-2016 @ 8:00 AM

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Thanks. I ordered the kit today.

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