Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Rear main seal

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: Rear main seal -- page: 1 2

gwistrup

01-06-2026 @ 1:41 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Dec 2022

I probably should have done a little more research before I posted my last message. Apparently post 1942 engines have a rope seal. I'm on the fence if I should take the engine out to paint the engine and engine compartment. I thought of taking the oil pan and intake off to clean the sludge from inside the engine. Do you think the metal deflector at the rear main bearing could have sludge in it making it less effective? The engine runs very well, has great oil pressure, and only uses about a quart in 1500 miles. A complete rebuild probably isn't going to help it much but maybe a thorough cleaning and exterior gasket replacement will reduce my leak.

This message was edited by gwistrup on 1-6-26 @ 1:48 PM

JayChicago

01-06-2026 @ 10:54 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 558
Joined: Jan 2016

Kube
Understand what you are saying. But I’m afraid to over-fill the pan by too much.

I wonder how much over-fill can a flathead pan take before the crank throws start hitting / frothing the oil?

Have read that over filling can cause additional leaking past the rear main. Never understand how that happens unless it was so full up to center of crankshaft. That deep, would be serious frothing problem.

kubes40

01-05-2026 @ 4:19 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 3580
Joined: Oct 2009

Jay, I'd recently pulled the pan off of my '38 Tudor, original engine, 32,000 miles, great running. There was at least 3/4" of what appeared to be oil "paste" at the bottom of the pan.
In my opinion, the engine is designed to run on five quarts regardless of the gunk in the pan. Oil not only lubricates, it cools.
As an example: So, if a guy only fills it up to the dipstick and has a ton of cr-- in the pan, takes three quarts to get to dipstick "correct" you think that's a good idea? That cr-- in the pan isn't doing anything but laying there.

Never witnessed a manual that called out for five quarts "new" and less when "used".

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

This message was edited by kubes40 on 1-5-26 @ 4:20 PM

carcrazy

01-05-2026 @ 3:50 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1988
Joined: Oct 2009

If you are sure you have a Flathead that originally came with a rope seal for the rear main bearing, you can simply purchase the Rear Main Rope Seal Kit from Dennis Carpenter under Part Number 91A-6347-ST for $34.95. He currently has this item in stock.

The best way to accomplish this task is to take the engine out of the car and place it upside down on an engine stand.

Get back with us later if you find that your engine has the earier type of labyrinth seal in which case installing the rope seal will require much more work. In addition to purchasing the lower and upper rope seal holders which fit into the rear main bearing cap and engine block, you will have to take the crankshaft to a machine shop to have rear slinger removed.

gwistrup

01-05-2026 @ 3:06 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Dec 2022

I consulted the article on how to identify your flat head V8 from the Fordbarn and I have positively identified the engine in my Tudor as a 1941-42 V8. It has the raised intake, it passes the pencil test, the exhaust ports are relatively flat, the coolant drains are angled, and there are no core plugs in the oil pan rails. The cylinder heads have "81T" cast on them. I believe this engine has a rope seal with the aluminum seal holders. Therefore, can I replace the rear main seal to stop the leak? Who makes the best seal kit? I assume engine removal would be the preferred method to fix this.

JayChicago

01-03-2026 @ 10:38 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 558
Joined: Jan 2016

Re 5 quarts capacity

5 quarts when new. When I drain oil from full on the dip stick (have verified dipstick is the correct one), only 4 to 4-1/4 quarts comes out. Can only get that much back in. Engine has 52,000 miles, never been rebuilt as far as I can tell. I assume there is 3/4 quart of sludge build-up in the pan and engine.

gwistrup

01-02-2026 @ 3:09 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Dec 2022

Thank you for the information. I'm sure the engine in my car is not the original. It has a Crab distributor and it does not have the drains on the lower oil pan rails of the block. I think it is a 1942 -1946ish block. Maybe this engine has a rear main seal? Aren't there more potential leak points in the bell housing area such as the oil pump and the aluminum rear main seal holders?

kubes40

01-02-2026 @ 2:45 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 3580
Joined: Oct 2009

I have to wonder where you guys still come up with four quarts.
The owner's manual, the salesman's manual, any Motors manual or similar repair manual all state five (US) quarts.
Heck, even the engineering release for the oil pan indicates five (US) quarts.
An oil filter did NOT affect the specified amount.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

carcrazy

01-01-2026 @ 8:54 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1988
Joined: Oct 2009

If you have the correct dipstick for the engine, insert the dipstick fully into the engine after you have drained all the old oil out and installed 4 quarts of fresh oil. Check the level indicated on the dipstick. If 4 quarts brings the oil level up to the halfway point or higher within the safe driving range, do not add any additional oil. If the engine has an oil filter, you can fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil which will bring the indicated level up to the halfway point of the safe driving range.

kubes40

01-01-2026 @ 4:40 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 3580
Joined: Oct 2009

Um, well pretty much everything you had advised is correct sans one thing. It's five US quarts to fill.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions