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Discussion Topic:
47 Ford high rpm miss
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ford38v8 |
10-02-2016 @ 12:23 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2736
Joined: Oct 2009
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OK, now I'm in over my head. I can't find info on your coil, and those voltage readings are nowhere near what I expected to see. I'm thinking your engine bumping began with points open, and each bump thereafter returned to points open also. The slightly declining values each time may be showing your resister getting hotter, thereby reducing voltage output. I don't think you got a reading with points closed. Because I couldn't find your coil info, I can't confirm it to be 6v. Your points being in poor condition, and the 8v battery all contributes to frying my old brain!
Alan
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ken ct. |
10-02-2016 @ 12:52 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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I wasn't recommending him rebuild his car. Only suggested going back to 6V and installing new wires and condenser fairly easy job. OMO ken ct We will get him going. Leaving for Hershey early Tues. morn. "GDF 4,5,+6 " spaces green field. Praying for NO Hurricane.
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Sgstepp@yahoo.com |
10-02-2016 @ 1:32 PM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Sep 2016
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It has a label right on the coil that it is a six volt coil. I also called the local parts store to confirm that there is no resister in the coil. I think there has been a lot of great input to try and help me out. The suggestion of replacing the plug wires makes good sense. 70 years old is a long time for the rubber coating to stand up. Do the wires simply slip out of the dist cap? Also I read that I should put a drop of solder on the end of the plug wires, is that a good idea? Being that I will have to remove the dist cap, should I replace those two items. Lastly where is a good place to purchase these parts, the local oreillys store doesn't have any listings for these wires. Thanks again.
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ken ct. |
10-02-2016 @ 4:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Hate to say it but Mac's has the inner contact plates ,but ask for the BRASS contact ones only. They also have the wires . ken ct. Oh just noticed its a 47 are you running a rabbit eared dist or a crab type. These have diff cap and rotor differences and clips. ken ct.
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Sgstepp@yahoo.com |
10-02-2016 @ 4:44 PM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Sep 2016
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It is the rabbit ear style. To be sure, I should get the rotor, inner and outer cap, gaskets, wires with brass connects and a new condenser, dist cap rubber boots and a new dist cap clip. I am looking at the Macs book also. I really don't care for Mac's that much but they do carry a lot of items. I returned some items about six weeks ago and haven't received a refund yet. Maybe now I can get it in parts???? Thanks for all of the feedback. Being that winter is getting close I will likely save this project for spring although I hate putting something away that is not repaired properly. I will let you know how things turn out.
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ken ct. |
10-02-2016 @ 4:56 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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No make sure the inner cap has the brass contacts not aluminum. The end of the color coded wires should be soldered to the wire. You can use your old outer cap as they really do nothing. These dist do NOT use a clip but use a large wire bale which holds both caps on. There are 2 gaskets 1 for each cap. ken ct. Use USA made points and short rotor. True crab dist. uses a longer (wider) rotor (42) only. Good luck. ken ct.
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TomO |
10-03-2016 @ 10:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Just as a quick check, take a piece of high tension wire with ends on it to fit into the coil and remove the high tension wire going from the coil to the distributor at the coil end and replace it with the new wire. Take the other end and hold it near a ground while cranking the engine. This will show how much spark the coil and condenser are providing. If it is weak, you can use a NAPA coil for a 49-55 Ford and bypass the ignition resistor, or have an original Ford script coil rebuilt by Skip Haney. I believe that the FF-170 was made in the last century as it is Niehoff's old numbering system and I seem to remember them closing their plant in the late 1980's. I was disappointed to hear the news at the time, as I was a big fan of their parts. A coil that old is questionable and should be checked out before replacing other parts.
Tom
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ford38v8 |
10-03-2016 @ 12:19 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2736
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tom, what about his 8v battery with the Napa coil & bypass resister? Or with skip's rebuilt coil? I'd want to start fresh with a good 6v, but he may not. Sgstepp, whoever put an 8v battery in your Ford likely was having hard starting issues or dim lights. If you replace it with a good 6v battery, we're helping your ignition issues now, and can help your lighting issues after that.
Alan
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ken ct. |
10-03-2016 @ 12:53 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Using an 8V battery to operate a 6V coil isn't the smartest thing to do. Get rid of the battery.Your PO was NOT too BRITE, omo ken ct. Keep us updated.
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Sgstepp@yahoo.com |
02-22-2017 @ 5:55 PM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Sep 2016
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Hello all, We had a break in the weather with highs in the sixties and I got the bug to try getting the 47 back on her feet. I re-read the posts and decided to replace the plug wires, points, condenser, cap, and rotor. Replacing the wires was the biggest task, but got it done. Tried starting the old girl and had no luck. I reran the basic tests and I had the same results. After rereading the great posts that everyone gave me I got to thinking about the 8 volt battery and the comments about the coil. That's right the coil. I replaced both, I put a new strong 6 volt battery and the recommended replacement coil. hurrah it started and ran almost perfectly. I had to take it for a ride and had good results. The idle is a little high but that is a easy fix. Now the weather is calling for a foot of snow so I parked the old girl with a good feeling, finally. A big thanks for all of the great input to help me out. I really appreciate everyones input. FYI the new recommended coil has a resister in it.???
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