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Discussion Topic:
47 Ford high rpm miss
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TomO |
02-28-2017 @ 7:49 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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You will probably be OK at 7.0 volts. If your battery doesn't charge fully, have the regulator adjusted. You should take it to a generator repair facility to have it adjusted. The reading could be low due to voltage regulator temperature or circuitry in your voltmeter.
Tom
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sarahcecelia |
02-28-2017 @ 4:53 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1171
Joined: Mar 2013
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An engine miss is most always cause by the ignition. The hight tension leads could be breaking down, Point flutter( caused by improper tension on them) I suggest running the motor in the dark and watching for spark jumping to ground.
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Sgstepp@yahoo.com |
02-27-2017 @ 3:22 PM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Sep 2016
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Hello TomO, I did the voltage test as you described and received a steady voltage reading of 7.0 volts. Should this be adjusted up to a mininum of 7.2 as you described in your last reply? If so, is this an adjustment that I can make or should I have an electrical tech tackle this job. Thanks also for explaining how to check the voltage output on the bat terminal of the regulator.
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supereal |
02-25-2017 @ 1:50 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If it is a stock coil, it will need the resistor. If it is a round coil, it usually has a built in resistor. Using an 8 volt battery usually will mean problems unless you have the coil rebuilt. If your problem reoccurs, find a shop with a distributor machine. Our Sun machine strobes the distributor so we can check for point bounce. Many of the point sets sold today have weak springs and no brass in the pivot hole. Good point sets will cost about $30. Anything less means they are overseas parts. Condensers are also suspect. If the vehicle was running well before you installed the points, you should consider using the old condenser. A weak condenser will cause the problems you mention.
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TomO |
02-23-2017 @ 9:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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I am glad that you are back on 6 volts and that the new coil got you running. Before you run the engine any more, you should check to see if the voltage regulator was adjusted to supply more than 7.4 volts. If it was, you will have to have it reset to original specs by a generator repair shop or replace it. I prefer the reset as your regulator is probably better than the new ones available. To check, connect your voltmeter to the BAT terminal of the regulator, start the engine and slowly raise the rpm until the voltage reading stabilizes. It should read 7.2 -7.4 volts. If it does not read in that range, have it adjusted. You may experience light bulbs burning out because of their exposure to more than the rated voltage, so check them out every time you are going to drive your car.
Tom
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Sgstepp@yahoo.com |
02-22-2017 @ 5:55 PM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Sep 2016
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Hello all, We had a break in the weather with highs in the sixties and I got the bug to try getting the 47 back on her feet. I re-read the posts and decided to replace the plug wires, points, condenser, cap, and rotor. Replacing the wires was the biggest task, but got it done. Tried starting the old girl and had no luck. I reran the basic tests and I had the same results. After rereading the great posts that everyone gave me I got to thinking about the 8 volt battery and the comments about the coil. That's right the coil. I replaced both, I put a new strong 6 volt battery and the recommended replacement coil. hurrah it started and ran almost perfectly. I had to take it for a ride and had good results. The idle is a little high but that is a easy fix. Now the weather is calling for a foot of snow so I parked the old girl with a good feeling, finally. A big thanks for all of the great input to help me out. I really appreciate everyones input. FYI the new recommended coil has a resister in it.???
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ken ct. |
10-03-2016 @ 12:53 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Using an 8V battery to operate a 6V coil isn't the smartest thing to do. Get rid of the battery.Your PO was NOT too BRITE, omo ken ct. Keep us updated.
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ford38v8 |
10-03-2016 @ 12:19 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2736
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tom, what about his 8v battery with the Napa coil & bypass resister? Or with skip's rebuilt coil? I'd want to start fresh with a good 6v, but he may not. Sgstepp, whoever put an 8v battery in your Ford likely was having hard starting issues or dim lights. If you replace it with a good 6v battery, we're helping your ignition issues now, and can help your lighting issues after that.
Alan
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TomO |
10-03-2016 @ 10:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Just as a quick check, take a piece of high tension wire with ends on it to fit into the coil and remove the high tension wire going from the coil to the distributor at the coil end and replace it with the new wire. Take the other end and hold it near a ground while cranking the engine. This will show how much spark the coil and condenser are providing. If it is weak, you can use a NAPA coil for a 49-55 Ford and bypass the ignition resistor, or have an original Ford script coil rebuilt by Skip Haney. I believe that the FF-170 was made in the last century as it is Niehoff's old numbering system and I seem to remember them closing their plant in the late 1980's. I was disappointed to hear the news at the time, as I was a big fan of their parts. A coil that old is questionable and should be checked out before replacing other parts.
Tom
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ken ct. |
10-02-2016 @ 4:56 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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No make sure the inner cap has the brass contacts not aluminum. The end of the color coded wires should be soldered to the wire. You can use your old outer cap as they really do nothing. These dist do NOT use a clip but use a large wire bale which holds both caps on. There are 2 gaskets 1 for each cap. ken ct. Use USA made points and short rotor. True crab dist. uses a longer (wider) rotor (42) only. Good luck. ken ct.
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