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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 47 Ford high rpm miss

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Discussion Topic: 47 Ford high rpm miss -- page: 1 2 3 4

TomO

09-29-2016 @ 7:57 AM

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If you are using a round coil for a 49-55 Ford, it should have an internal resister. Other round coils may not have the resister and may not be for POS ground. Make sure that the terminal marked + is going to the distributor.

Follow Alan's advice about checking spark. Weak or no spark can be caused by the wires not properly seated in the distributor cap, bad distributor cap or bad rotor.

If the spark is good, check your plugs. They must have the correct gap and not leaking compression. Some of the Champion H10C plugs do not work very well in the automotive engines. They are designed to be used in lawnmower and other small engines.

Tom

Sgstepp@yahoo.com

10-01-2016 @ 1:24 PM

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I finally am getting back on the latest test to help determine this miss. I now believe that the miss is happening at all times at any rpm. I took all of the plugs out and plugged them into the plug wires. Then I grounded each one to a head bolt to determine the spark on each plug. Keep in mind that my compression test showed 80-90 lbs on all cylinders. The right bank showed a small blue spark. Not overly strong but still showed blue. The left bank showed very little spark on the rear cylinder and no spark on the other three. Keep in mind that these are new plugs with proper gap. The only thing I have not replaced is the rotor, dist. cap, and plug wires. When I reinstalled the plugs and wires it starts but the left bank shows more rpm drop then the right bank when I pull the wires off of the plugs, one at a time. Any thoughts, thanks to everyone for your assistance, it is appreciated.

Sgstepp@yahoo.com

10-01-2016 @ 1:36 PM

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After rereading some posts I thought I would add that I am using Autolite 126 plugs. Also the plug wires are the original wires as far as I can tell still strung inside the plug wiring tube. Does it make sense that wires that old would possibly be leaking into the plug wiring tube? Thanks again.

ford38v8

10-01-2016 @ 6:09 PM

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That's not really the best way to test spark. Hold the plug wire near a headbolt without the plug attached, while the engine is running. Do this individually with all plug wires.

TomO advised about rotor and cap, but you haven't checked or changed those? Have you checked the plug wire's seating within the cap? Your points showed quite a lot of metal transfer, but you stay with the same condenser because you replaced it once? Do you know the incoming voltage to your coil, and have you determined that the coil has it's own resistor? I'm not trying to be a smart ass, I'm just trying to get you to try the suggestions you've been given before you go on to more expensive ideas.

Alan

Sgstepp@yahoo.com

10-02-2016 @ 7:58 AM

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I just did a test of the plug wire spark with the engine running at idle. I found that the right bank had a gold color up to 1/8" long. The left bank was a little weaker with a small blue/white spark up to about 3/32" long. I noticed more of an engine rpm drop when I pulled the right bank plug wires than the left bank. None of the plug wire sparks seemed as strong as it should be. It is not a strong snap when it fires. I did find the resistor under the dash up high on the drivers side. Nice shiny coils like it had been replaced lately. No burned out look to it. A voltage test on the coil showed 6.4 volts coming in and 3.4 volts coming out. I have a 8 volt battery in the truck. I have not changed the cap or rotor as they looked good And clean when I had it apart and everyone seem to give me the idea that I should do more testing before throwing a bunch of money at it. That is what I am doing now is following the suggestion given to me. I appreciate everyone input.

ford38v8

10-02-2016 @ 8:22 AM

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OK, good test there, and good information. Do this please: Engine off, ignition on, voltmeter on the incoming coil terminal, and record the reading. Then bump the engine over without starting it, and record the reading at the same place. The two readings will be different, and will provide more clues for us.

Determine whether your coil has an internal resistor or not. It may not indicate on the coil itself, b ut trace down the part number for this answer.

Alan

ken ct.

10-02-2016 @ 8:26 AM

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Get rid of the 8 V battery first of all use a 6 V one. I would change the wires for new SS or copper core ones. You should have better blue spark at the plugs. OMO. ken ct. and change the cond. to a NAPA IH-200 these are reliable out of the box.

ford38v8

10-02-2016 @ 8:40 AM

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Ken, I fully agree, but let's get him running first before rebuilding his car.

Alan

trjford8

10-02-2016 @ 8:59 AM

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If the plug wires are original they are 70 years old. Put in new ones. You have no idea if the insulation has gone bad due to them being hidden in the metal tube. By now the wire core has also corroded setting up a lot of resistance.

Sgstepp@yahoo.com

10-02-2016 @ 11:26 AM

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I got the readings for the coil, I started by taking a reading prior to bumping the engine over, 4.6volts, after the first bump I got 4.1 volts, the second bump I got 3.9 volts, then 3.8 volts. I also checked the coil part number and it does not have a resister. Coil pn niehoff FF-170. I hope this helps and thanks for all of the quick responses.

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