LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Front Bearing Tightness

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Front Bearing Tightness

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

len47merc
07-26-2016 @ 1:12 PM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Hey guys - just finished the front brakes and repacking the bearings on the '47 in prep for the Gettysburg trip and am looking for input on bearing tightness. My old school process was to 'seat' the now 3131 packed and grease rich bearings by increasingly tightening then loosening the castle nut bearing with wrench/channel lock pliers while rotating the wheel until they were tight. Then back off slightly, tighten until completely finger tight, then using the wrench/pliers tighten further only as far as the very next castellation that would allow the cotter pin in. Typically I've never detected any hub end play remaining in the bearings using this method.

Conversely, the SHOP MANUAL indicates for these cars you should tighten the hub bearing nut until '...bearings start to bind...', then back off 1/8 turn, or one castellation, and replace the cotter pin. What does 'start to bind' mean? That the wheel begins to slow down from too much bearing pressure? Or that simply no further hub end play can be detected? Using this method (tightening until no further hub end play can be detected then backing off) I can detect very slight hub end play remaining in the wheel - the difference between this process and that in the 1st paragraph is 1 castellation.

And lastly, in Dick Flynn's Ford V8 Technical Tips he advises to spin the hub while adjusting the bearings to align the rollers, then torque to 4-6 ft lbs, then back off one (1) full castellation to have .004" to .010" hub end play (as he indicates this procedure allows the rollers to be lubricated by the grease - ?).

So, what is correct and what do you guys that routinely are in this area advise for front wheel bearing tightness? Thanks -

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 7-26-16 @ 1:19 PM

ford38v8
07-26-2016 @ 1:46 PM
Senior
Posts: 2735
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Len, I think all those methods are really saying the same thing. Tighten to squish the grease and set the rollers while spinning the wheel both directions. You'll feel the binding, as the spin will be slower and stiffer. Back off just enough to let it spin again, to get the feel of it, then use the hole just one notch looser than "binding".

As a kid, I offered advice to a friend on this question, thinking the method was the same for the front as it was for the rear. He never forgave me.

Alan

len47merc
07-26-2016 @ 4:04 PM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Thanks Alan. I just do not recall adjusting front bearings on my 60's & 70's cars & trucks to leave any wheel end play or perceived looseness at all in the bearings. My first paragraph is how I recall doing this which meant yes, they were tighter with no play, and I never blew out a front bearing. All my readings on our Fords though indicate they were apparently designed for some degree of end play so I was a bit conflicted.

Just went out and readjusted as you've advised (& Dick Flynn & the SHOP MANUAL). This effectively resulted in the end of a backing-off of the castle nut by one castellation. I can feel ever-so-ever-so slight an end play in both front wheels now (must be in the 0.004"-0.08" range) so I'm going with this for the trip.

Never forgave you 'eh? Ouch...

Steve

<< previous || next >> 


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1