| len47merc | -- 07-26-2016 @ 1:12 PM |
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Hey guys - just finished the front brakes and repacking the bearings on the '47 in prep for the Gettysburg trip and am looking for input on bearing tightness. My old school process was to 'seat' the now 3131 packed and grease rich bearings by increasingly tightening then loosening the castle nut bearing with wrench/channel lock pliers while rotating the wheel until they were tight. Then back off slightly, tighten until completely finger tight, then using the wrench/pliers tighten further only as far as the very next castellation that would allow the cotter pin in. Typically I've never detected any hub end play remaining in the bearings using this method. Conversely, the SHOP MANUAL indicates for these cars you should tighten the hub bearing nut until '...bearings start to bind...', then back off 1/8 turn, or one castellation, and replace the cotter pin. What does 'start to bind' mean? That the wheel begins to slow down from too much bearing pressure? Or that simply no further hub end play can be detected? Using this method (tightening until no further hub end play can be detected then backing off) I can detect very slight hub end play remaining in the wheel - the difference between this process and that in the 1st paragraph is 1 castellation. And lastly, in Dick Flynn's Ford V8 Technical Tips he advises to spin the hub while adjusting the bearings to align the rollers, then torque to 4-6 ft lbs, then back off one (1) full castellation to have .004" to .010" hub end play (as he indicates this procedure allows the rollers to be lubricated by the grease - ?). So, what is correct and what do you guys that routinely are in this area advise for front wheel bearing tightness? Thanks - Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 7-26-16 @ 1:19 PM
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-26-2016 @ 1:46 PM |
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Len, I think all those methods are really saying the same thing. Tighten to squish the grease and set the rollers while spinning the wheel both directions. You'll feel the binding, as the spin will be slower and stiffer. Back off just enough to let it spin again, to get the feel of it, then use the hole just one notch looser than "binding". As a kid, I offered advice to a friend on this question, thinking the method was the same for the front as it was for the rear. He never forgave me. Alan
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| len47merc | -- 07-26-2016 @ 4:04 PM |
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Thanks Alan. I just do not recall adjusting front bearings on my 60's & 70's cars & trucks to leave any wheel end play or perceived looseness at all in the bearings. My first paragraph is how I recall doing this which meant yes, they were tighter with no play, and I never blew out a front bearing. All my readings on our Fords though indicate they were apparently designed for some degree of end play so I was a bit conflicted. Just went out and readjusted as you've advised (& Dick Flynn & the SHOP MANUAL). This effectively resulted in the end of a backing-off of the castle nut by one castellation. I can feel ever-so-ever-so slight an end play in both front wheels now (must be in the 0.004"-0.08" range) so I'm going with this for the trip. Never forgave you 'eh? Ouch... Steve
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