Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Blades breaking off two fans

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: Blades breaking off two fans -- page: 1 2

40headaches

05-11-2016 @ 2:55 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 36
Joined: Oct 2015

I'm taking it to our club car show Sun. Maybe some mechanically inclined people will show up and join me and my car. Maybe if I bring some tools we can all have some fun.

TomO

05-12-2016 @ 7:38 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009

I read your post on the Ford Barn about the transmission being hard to shift after adjusting it. The correct freeplay adjustment is 1"- 1 1/4", measured at the clutch pedal, with the engine running. You had adjusted it to 1 1/2" - 1 3/4".

If you still have problems shifting with this adjustment, look for worn parts in the clutch linkage. Most common are the clutch pedal bushings and the cross shaft and bushings. Don't add STP or any other additive to slow down the synchonizers and gears, you will only postpone fixing the problem for a short time and mat damage the roller bearings in the transmission.

You do not need a long breaker bar to tighten the crankshaft pulley. I tighten mine to 40-45 Ft-lbs. and have never had one come loose.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 5-12-16 @ 8:02 AM

40headaches

05-16-2016 @ 11:38 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 36
Joined: Oct 2015

I just put a dial indicator from a fixed point to the rim of the hub. Using a socket and ratchet I rotated the crank shaft and noticed that I had 1/1000" movement just applying pressure to rotate. Meaning I was moving the hub/shaft downward before I started to roate. I had a variable of 5/1000" difference w/ a complete revolution in terms of center of shaft to outer rim edge of pully hub where the hand crank bolt is. So would I be guessing right that it should not be doing either of those? OK so I removed the pully/ flange/ hub. What is its proper name? the hub was clean of paint and it was smooth. I afixed a dial on the crankshaft. Spun it by hand and by starter button. Same results.

1) I have a solid 1/1000" variance. Is this ok?

2) I have a 1.5+/1000" free play in that shaft moving it by hand up and down side to side. Is this ok?

3) I also noticed that when using the starter the motor torqued it up to 5/1000" free play if you will. This does not look good to me. Right?

FYI, as I installed the pully it was tight starting 1" on the shaft, then it was free going on the shft to the motor. As I removed the pully it was tight coming off the first .5" then free then tight again the last 1".
tight = use of hammer and rod for install thru the crank hole and a puller to remove.

4) Is any of this not ok?
There is a tapper inside the pully sleeve, I can feel a rim where it goes flat after an 1" from the pully end.

This message was edited by 40headaches on 5-16-16 @ 6:40 PM

40headaches

05-31-2016 @ 6:23 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 36
Joined: Oct 2015

Discovered that the crankshaft only had three bolts holding it together. The others were snapped off down by the threads. A crack was also found in the block. Thank you for everyone's ideas. Now I know why my fans were breaking. And my rumble was not the way it was supposed to be.

TomO

05-31-2016 @ 7:36 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009

I am sorry to hear about your block crack. Where is the crack? Can it be repaired with stitching?

The broken main studs and the trouble that you had loosening the crank pulley, lead me to believe that whoever assembled the engine did not own a torque wrench. I hope that you will be able to save the block.

Tom

40headaches

05-31-2016 @ 10:15 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 36
Joined: Oct 2015

Gunther's Machine Shop of MD did not want to rebuild my motor. So the block is toast. It had cylinder sleeves. Tom the motor was rebuilt w/ the same carelessness as the rest of the car back in '95. The Co. who did the work just had no desire to do quality work w/ the craftsmanship that should have been used. The transmission was installed w/ a broken mount too. Covered it up w/ a big washer. If I should ever discover that shop I have a few choice words to express. Gunther's passed my Dad's motor and now I wait 8 weeks. Eastern National Meet will be tight to say the least.

TomO

06-01-2016 @ 8:24 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009

Most 1939 and 1940 Ford engines had thin steel sleeves. That was an idea that Ford engineers had to prolong the life of the block. An engine could be rebuilt, with a standard bore many times, before the block would have to be discarded. So having sleeves is not a good reason to discard a block.

Your block has other issues , so it may have to be scr*pped.

Tom

shogun1940

06-01-2016 @ 5:48 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010

I bought a flathead years ago that had the weights shaved off for racing , went fast but shook like h*ll

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions