| 40headaches | -- 05-08-2016 @ 3:36 PM |
|
I have fan blades breaking off my radiator fans. Two seperate times. Less than 50 miles driven between repairs of the first time. Both blades were in good condition. Both times they broke off coming from 1st to second gear. I need some big time help in figuring this out. Motor is a 1940 V8 85. Bought the car in Sept 2014. Always had a hard rumble accelerating from 0 to 45 about a week after purchase. I replaced entire exhaust system and it cut the noise level by 40%. It does not hurt between my ears anymore. But It is still there. It purrs going 50 to 60. And the rumble is gone if I accerlate after 45mph. but still there below 45. Are these two issues connected? Time is of the essence on these issues.
|
|
| 42wagon | -- 05-08-2016 @ 4:46 PM |
|
Those fans are not prone to breakage under normal circumstances. I'm going to guess that there is some sort of vibration in the engine as evidenced by the rumble that you describe. That vibration is causing the fan to move back and forth and eventually metal fatigue causes the blade to break off. My guess would be a bad thrust bearing and or bad crankshaft bearings. Maybe the engine mounts are loose and the whole engine is moving back and forth. Let us know what you find.
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-08-2016 @ 5:30 PM |
|
So what would be the ft lb mark for the water pump mount nuts? Cause I just broke one of my water pump mounts, yep snapped it! Tightened a bit too much I'd say. Does anyone know if a '49 water pump fits a '40 motor?
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-09-2016 @ 7:12 AM |
|
A 49 water pump will not fit a 40 motor. Reproduction water pumps are available from most vendors or you may be able to buy a rebuilt pump from Skip Haney. Stay away from used pumps as they will very likely leak, either coolant or oil or both. If you need a core, I will give you a pair just for the shipping costs. http://www.fordcollector.com/water_pumps.htm The motor mounts should be tightened just enough to slightly compress the rubber cushion. Your fan may have had a bent blade. The bent blade will cause a vibration and eventually break. It would help if you could post photos of the broken fans. The 39-41 Ford fans are heavy duty items that seldom fail. You can only post one photo per reply on this Forum. Very large photos will not post either. Tom
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-09-2016 @ 9:29 AM |
|
The shinny black one is the victim from Sunday.
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-09-2016 @ 9:30 AM |
|
up close of Sunday's fan housing
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-09-2016 @ 9:33 AM |
|
up close of the blade. Now I see a dark area where it looks like it was seperating from the layers. My current intentions is to take both fans, blades, and pully to a machine shop and see if they are willing to help figure out what happened. Before I start removing the transmission and or engine from the car.
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-09-2016 @ 11:15 AM |
|
Thanks for the up close photos. Both of them show that the fan was cracked and probably bent. The rust is the tell tale. You will likely see a similar signs of rust on the other fan. Strip the next fan down to bare metal and use a crack detection oil or magnaflux to check the fan. Next spin it up on a lathe to check the balance. I would do this even if the seller says the fan is NOS and make sure that you can return a defective fan. Tom
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-10-2016 @ 12:23 PM |
|
Test drove the car w/ out the fan on, just a different hub. Did not go 100' when the rumble was heard in 2nd gear. I also felt a vibration in both clutch and gas pedals while sitting still and revving it up and staying at a moderate rpm. So I intend to remove the trans and go after the pressure plate area. I will inspect everything I get into. Thank you for the feedback. O and I am still have major starting issues. It sat for an hour after test drive and would turn over and over. But hey, why worry, no sense in starting it if I can't drive it. You can read that post story from the past.
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-10-2016 @ 4:05 PM |
|
It would be better to try to isolate the area where the rumble and vibration is coming from. I would pull the throttle out until I heard the rumble. Then short one plug at a time to see if it is a high speed miss. If all of the plugs are firing OK, then use a stethoscope or a long screwdriver to isolate the rumble. Check the generator, water pumps, exhaust manifolds and the bell housing. Tom
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-11-2016 @ 2:55 PM |
|
I'm taking it to our club car show Sun. Maybe some mechanically inclined people will show up and join me and my car. Maybe if I bring some tools we can all have some fun.
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-12-2016 @ 7:38 AM |
|
I read your post on the Ford Barn about the transmission being hard to shift after adjusting it. The correct freeplay adjustment is 1"- 1 1/4", measured at the clutch pedal, with the engine running. You had adjusted it to 1 1/2" - 1 3/4". If you still have problems shifting with this adjustment, look for worn parts in the clutch linkage. Most common are the clutch pedal bushings and the cross shaft and bushings. Don't add STP or any other additive to slow down the synchonizers and gears, you will only postpone fixing the problem for a short time and mat damage the roller bearings in the transmission. You do not need a long breaker bar to tighten the crankshaft pulley. I tighten mine to 40-45 Ft-lbs. and have never had one come loose. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 5-12-16 @ 8:02 AM
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-16-2016 @ 11:38 AM |
|
I just put a dial indicator from a fixed point to the rim of the hub. Using a socket and ratchet I rotated the crank shaft and noticed that I had 1/1000" movement just applying pressure to rotate. Meaning I was moving the hub/shaft downward before I started to roate. I had a variable of 5/1000" difference w/ a complete revolution in terms of center of shaft to outer rim edge of pully hub where the hand crank bolt is. So would I be guessing right that it should not be doing either of those? OK so I removed the pully/ flange/ hub. What is its proper name? the hub was clean of paint and it was smooth. I afixed a dial on the crankshaft. Spun it by hand and by starter button. Same results. 1) I have a solid 1/1000" variance. Is this ok? 2) I have a 1.5+/1000" free play in that shaft moving it by hand up and down side to side. Is this ok? 3) I also noticed that when using the starter the motor torqued it up to 5/1000" free play if you will. This does not look good to me. Right? FYI, as I installed the pully it was tight starting 1" on the shaft, then it was free going on the shft to the motor. As I removed the pully it was tight coming off the first .5" then free then tight again the last 1". tight = use of hammer and rod for install thru the crank hole and a puller to remove. 4) Is any of this not ok? There is a tapper inside the pully sleeve, I can feel a rim where it goes flat after an 1" from the pully end. This message was edited by 40headaches on 5-16-16 @ 6:40 PM
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-31-2016 @ 6:23 AM |
|
Discovered that the crankshaft only had three bolts holding it together. The others were snapped off down by the threads. A crack was also found in the block. Thank you for everyone's ideas. Now I know why my fans were breaking. And my rumble was not the way it was supposed to be.
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-31-2016 @ 7:36 AM |
|
I am sorry to hear about your block crack. Where is the crack? Can it be repaired with stitching? The broken main studs and the trouble that you had loosening the crank pulley, lead me to believe that whoever assembled the engine did not own a torque wrench. I hope that you will be able to save the block. Tom
|
|
| 40headaches | -- 05-31-2016 @ 10:15 AM |
|
Gunther's Machine Shop of MD did not want to rebuild my motor. So the block is toast. It had cylinder sleeves. Tom the motor was rebuilt w/ the same carelessness as the rest of the car back in '95. The Co. who did the work just had no desire to do quality work w/ the craftsmanship that should have been used. The transmission was installed w/ a broken mount too. Covered it up w/ a big washer. If I should ever discover that shop I have a few choice words to express. Gunther's passed my Dad's motor and now I wait 8 weeks. Eastern National Meet will be tight to say the least.
|
|
| TomO | -- 06-01-2016 @ 8:24 AM |
|
Most 1939 and 1940 Ford engines had thin steel sleeves. That was an idea that Ford engineers had to prolong the life of the block. An engine could be rebuilt, with a standard bore many times, before the block would have to be discarded. So having sleeves is not a good reason to discard a block. Your block has other issues , so it may have to be scr*pped. Tom
|
|
| shogun1940 | -- 06-01-2016 @ 5:48 PM |
|
I bought a flathead years ago that had the weights shaved off for racing , went fast but shook like h*ll
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9650 |