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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / Baffling Brake Light Issue - Driver's Side

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Discussion Topic: Baffling Brake Light Issue - Driver's Side -- page: 1 2 3

cliftford

06-22-2016 @ 6:40 AM

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Steve, I don't mean to insult your inteligence, but i don't see anything in your posts about trying a different bulb. could this be a possibility?

len47merc

06-22-2016 @ 6:51 AM

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No problem cliftford - I did mention that I'd switched bulbs side-to-side with no change. I've also installed a new bulb with the same results but didn't mention that earlier.

Again, if the last effort works with the insulating sleeves I'ma gonna let it ride. If not, Tom's suggestion wrto testing the strength of the connection between the wire and the brass round-head contact for the brake light. Then if nothing there perhaps it's a cold solder joint and I'll try cutting a short section of the wire, re-flowing the solder with new and reattaching the contacts at both the light socket end and the bullet connector end. Last resort I replace the whole kit'n kaboodle ~30" tail light wire harness without ever knowing, other than by deductive reasoning, what the root cause was - which absolutely flies against my grain!

Update hopefully this evening. Oh my achin' back...

Steve

len47merc

06-22-2016 @ 12:32 PM

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Ok guys - updating earlier than expected to give the Forum's brains additional time today to chew on this one. Advil'd-up the back and took the '47 out for a 60 mile cruise this morning city and highway with a dozen or so stops. Driver's side brake light working perfectly so far. Stopped in after 20 miles or so of city/country driving to see the wife and bring her lunch at work and brake light was working - longest it has worked in months. Then another 20 miles of city/country, light still working. Then back home city/country still working. First time in many months it was still working when I got home after many 30 min to 2 hour trips, each trip without fail the brake light was working when I left (after removing the bulb, further troubleshooting, tinkering with the contacts and reinserting the bulb) but was not working while on the drive or when I got the car home. The question is - why is it now working after insulating each contact in the socket?

Attached is a pic of the insulating tubing I placed over each contact and spring inside the light socket (it actually is heat shrink insulation tubing that of course was not heated/shrunk on the terminal). Why this (seems so far to have) worked I cannot explain - need a better electrical guru (Tom - you out there?) to 'splain this one. What could be happening with the brake contact on this wire in this receptacle AFTER the light is inserted that: 1) Allows the light to work in the garage but caused the brake light to stop working after a drive of 5-10 miles with associated vibration, 2) Affected only the brake light on the driver's side and not also the driver's side tail light or the passenger side brake light and lastly 3) Apparently was resolved by placing this insulating tubing over each contact - How?

Or do you think the tubing is only a facade and this will rear its head again - not enough wheel time to draw a 'resolved' conclusion? Or that from scr*w*ng with it so much over months I've now created good contact and it is only a coincidence that this happened at the same time the tubing was installed?

Steve

ford38v8

06-22-2016 @ 1:27 PM

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Steve, Glad you've got it under c control now! Sounds to me like the vibration -while -driving caused the now older, weaker springs to break contact, and the shrink tubing now allows some improvement there. It might be wise to get some replacement springs at the hardware store for next time!

Alan

len47merc

06-23-2016 @ 6:46 AM

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The answers to my last two questions are: YES & YES. Out to the garage this morning - no driver's side brake light, all other lights working. Remove the lens, remove the bulb, put the bulb back in - brake light magically working (for how long it's anybody's guess now).

Working on your terminal strength test next Tom. Going to go ahead and re-solder all connections while I have it out. Update later. I had my doubts on the insulation because there was no logical reasoning other than Alan's last response that made any sense and even then I can find no difference with my highly calibrated and sensitive hands in finger-pressure spring strength between the two terminals.

The simplest things...

Steve

len47merc

06-23-2016 @ 9:12 AM

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Do any of our sources sell the original style tail light harness as shown in the photos above? The few photos I've seen (example - C&G) show a different construction but perhaps they'll still 'work' yet not be original style. I strongly prefer staying original if at all possible. Any recommendations? Anything to steer clear of?

Btw - Alan & Tom the terminals are rock solid, although the ~70 year old insulation on the wires under the insulating plate is starting to crumble badly with age. No sense in tinkering with this any further given what I found here.

Steve

len47merc

06-23-2016 @ 3:05 PM

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For everyone - I've not been able to isolate the root cause here but after pulling it apart for the umpteenth time over the last several months I slid the insulating plate with springs back up the wires to test the terminal strength connection and the attached is what I found. Basically the ~70 year old wire insulation is falling apart along the full length of both wires. Whether this has anything to do with this brake light problem or not I do not know (the black wire is for the tail light) but I am going to suspend further work here and replace both sides with new (likely repops). Posting this in case anyone ever runs in to the same puzzling issue.

Regards -

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 6-23-16 @ 3:08 PM

TomO

06-24-2016 @ 7:14 AM

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Steve, those do not appear to be the original wires. The original wires would have cloth covered insulation and the brake light wire insulation would be green.

My suggestion is that you get the parts (wire, terminals and bullets) and use your old springs and insulating plate to repair the tail lights. Check the condition of the socket carefully to make sure that the bulb does not wobble in the socket and that it is firmly attached to the housing.

I don't know how they painted your car, but be aware that removing the taillight housing from the car could damage the paint. The rubber gasket could be firmly attached to the paint and the housing and paint could peel when the housing is removed.

Tom

len47merc

06-24-2016 @ 12:03 PM

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Thanks Tom and I agree with you. Because I never had to expose the wires under the plate before, and the prior owner (who inherited the car from an aunt who was the original owner) represented he never touched the car for the 3 years he drove it and the 35+ it was moth balled, I was stunned to see the insulation when sliding the insulation plate back. First and only wires I've ever seen on this '47 that were not woven and the correct color that I've ever come across. I also knew the wires should have been green and black woven from researching the wiring diagram in the Shop Manual and at Van Pelt, so someone must've changed these way - way back there. This said - ALAN - perhaps I can help you with your theory after all, albeit this 'repop' must've come from the 60's given the patina, dirt and road debris covering the wires underneath the car is consistent with that on the car's woven wiring harness which I've confirmed twice during Rouge judging to be the original. Was more than a bit embarrassed and disappointed I'd not caught this before and corrected it earlier, but under the mantra of full disclosure posted the pic anyway. Never had to go here so this one more than surprised me.

I am researching a source for the original style. Going to change both while I'm at it, particularly given the crumbling state of the very aged insulation. This style is specific to the '46-'48 Mercurys.

Thanks also Tom for the recommendations on the paint. I have no plans to remove the housing for the exact reason you stated.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 6-24-16 @ 12:10 PM

ken ct.

06-24-2016 @ 12:36 PM

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Steve , John Brillman Co. can duplicate your original wires in color and fabric if you wish. Hes reasonable and great to work with. Hes in Mt. Jackson Va. phone toll free 1-888-274-5562 or 1540-477-4112 . hes a custom Harness maker,know him well. ken ct.

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