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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / New Miss

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Discussion Topic: New Miss -- page: 1 2 3 4

TomO

04-15-2016 @ 8:14 AM

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Randy,

Your spark looks weak in the video that you Emailed me.

First check the spark plugs for the correct gap of .025" and clean plugs

Next check the Primary circuit resistance by connecting a voltmeter COM lead to the NEG post of the battery and the POS lead to the Battery or - lead of the coil. Remove the distributor cap and bump the starter until the points are closed. Turn on the ignition switch and read the meter. It should read 0.2 Volts or less. Turn the ignition switch on and off several times. The meter reading should be the same every time if the switch is good. Move the leads to check the primary resistance from the coil to the points. The COM lead on the DIST or + terminal of te coil and the POS lead on the points. The reading should be 0.1 or lower.

If any reading is out of specs, move the POS lead to isolate the problem.
I would use a dwell meter to check the dwell at idle and at all rpms up to 2,00 rpm. The dwell should be set at 26 degrees and not vary more than 2 degrees as the rpm is increased.

Next test the distributor ground circuit by connecting the com lead of the ohmmeter to the DIST terminal of the coil and the POS lead to a good engine ground. The meter should read a short. Move the point plate to advance the spark and watch the meter, If the meter flickers, check the wire going to the points and the grounding wire inside the distributor.

Check that the condenser is firmly mounted to the the point plate. If it can be moved in any direction, it will not have a goof ground.

Check the rotor and cap for corrosion or burnt contacts.

I would also do a cylinder balance test by removing one plug wire at a time and notice if the engine slows the same amount for each plug. I any one or more plugs do not slow the engine the same as the others, replace the plug and check the wire.

Tom

RAND

04-16-2016 @ 9:41 PM

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Thanks Tom that's some great information not only for me but others as well. I'll let you know what I find out when I have time to get back at it again .
Tks again, Randy

RAND

04-28-2016 @ 6:25 PM

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Hi Tom,

Haven't had much garage time....this is what I've found. What do you think? ignition switch?
Thanks..Randy

Your spark looks weak in the video that you Emailed me. Do I need to send another video?

First check the spark plugs for the correct gap of .025" and clean plugs yes

Next check the Primary circuit resistance by connecting a voltmeter COM lead to the NEG post of the battery and the POS lead to the Battery or - lead of the coil. Remove the distributor cap and bump the starter until the points are closed. Turn on the ignition switch and read the meter. It should read 0.2 Volts or less. Turn the ignition switch on and off several times. The meter reading should be the same every time if the switch is good. Jumps around from.84 to1.35
Move the leads to check the primary resistance from the coil to the points. The COM lead on the DIST or + terminal of te coil and the POS lead on the points. The reading should be 0.1 or lower. 0.1 to 0.2

If any reading is out of specs, move the POS lead to isolate the problem. ?

I would use a dwell meter to check the dwell at idle and at all rpms up to 2,00 rpm. The dwell should be set at 26 degrees and not vary more than 2 degrees as the rpm is increased. Where can I pick up a good dwell meter?

Next test the distributor ground circuit by connecting the com lead of the ohmmeter to the DIST terminal of the coil and the POS lead to a good engine ground. The meter should read a short. 014
Move the point plate to advance the spark and watch the meter, If the meter flickers, check the wire going to the points and the grounding wire inside the distributor. No change

Check that the condenser is firmly mounted to the the point plate. If it can be moved in any direction, it will not have a goof ground. Tight

Check the rotor and cap for corrosion or burnt contacts. New from Napa

I would also do a cylinder balance test by removing one plug wire at a time and notice if the engine slows the same amount for each plug. I any one or more plugs do not slow the engine the same as the others, replace the plug and check the wire. Did not do

This message was edited by RAND on 4-28-16 @ 6:27 PM

TomO

04-29-2016 @ 7:15 AM

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Haven't had much garage time....this is what I've found. What do you think? ignition switch?
Thanks..Randy

Your switch looks questionable.

Your spark looks weak in the video that you Emailed me. Do I need to send another video?
NO

First check the spark plugs for the correct gap of .025" and clean plugs yes

Next check the Primary circuit resistance by connecting a voltmeter COM lead to the NEG post of the battery and the POS lead to the Battery or - lead of the coil. Remove the distributor cap and bump the starter until the points are closed. Turn on the ignition switch and read the meter. It should read 0.2 Volts or less. Turn the ignition switch on and off several times. The meter reading should be the same every time if the switch is good. Jumps around from.84 to1.35

That looks like a problem, You may be able to disassemble the switch and clean it, if you cannot find a good replacement.

Move the leads to check the primary resistance from the coil to the points. The COM lead on the DIST or + terminal of te coil and the POS lead on the points. The reading should be 0.1 or lower. 0.1 to 0.2

This could be your meter or slight pitting on the points.

If any reading is out of specs, move the POS lead to isolate the problem. ?

I would use a dwell meter to check the dwell at idle and at all rpms up to 2,00 rpm. The dwell should be set at 26 degrees and not vary more than 2 degrees as the rpm is increased. Where can I pick up a good dwell meter?

I don’t know a good source for a dwell meter at this time. I don’t like the digital ones as they seem to jump all over when the engine is running. Stay away from the older professional meters, as most of them used mercury batteries that cannot be bought now. Dwell meters show up on E-Bay and Amazon sells a new Actron, but I do not have any idea of the quality of it.

Next test the distributor ground circuit by connecting the com lead of the ohmmeter to the DIST terminal of the coil and the POS lead to a good engine ground. The meter should read a short. 014

This reading could be a short, depending on your meter.

Move the point plate to advance the spark and watch the meter, If the meter flickers, check the wire going to the points and the grounding wire inside the distributor. No change

Check that the condenser is firmly mounted to the the point plate. If it can be moved in any direction, it will not have a goof ground. Tight

Check the rotor and cap for corrosion or burnt contacts. New from Napa

I would also do a cylinder balance test by removing one plug wire at a time and notice if the engine slows the same amount for each plug. I any one or more plugs do not slow the engine the same as the others, replace the plug and check the wire. Did not do

I tried formatting my replies in red, but this Forum software will not allow any formatting.

Tom

RAND

04-29-2016 @ 4:15 PM

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Thanks Tom!
Yeah I tried to answere in red as well

I did find a NOS switch
Getting that bugger out has me a little worried.

Is there a way to by pass the ignition switch to see if that's the problem?

All I need now is some time

Tks again!
Randy

This message was edited by RAND on 4-29-16 @ 4:16 PM

TomO

04-30-2016 @ 7:20 AM

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You can connect the wires from the old switch to another switch and try it.

The instructions to remove the switch are:
Remove ground cable from battery
Remove the wires from the 3 terminals
Remove the bulb assembly clipped to the switch body.
With the key removed from the lock, grasp the rear of the switch and press it towards the dash while turning counter clockwise 1/4 turn. Switc will snap loose from panel.

I will try to post the page with the instructions later.

Tom

RAND

05-12-2016 @ 4:36 PM

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I still haven't had time to mess with this =(
Does your instruction sheet also tell you how to remove the key tumbler too?
I would really like to still be able to use my original keys
Thanks for your continual help!
Randy

TomO

05-13-2016 @ 7:21 AM

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Hi Randy, I got busy and forgot to post the instructions. They come from the 1949-1951 Lincoln Mercury Overhaul Manual. It is available in reprint or CD from Rock Auto and in reprint form from Amazon.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1949,mercury,3.7l+225cid+v8,1345812,literature,repair+manual,10335

Tom

RAND

05-24-2017 @ 7:27 PM

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***update***
I cant beleave that if has been exactly a year since my first post on my problem with the engine miss =/
so...I sent off my dizzy to Bubba for a rebuild, got it rebuilt from him and put in some fresh Champion H10c's recommended by him and problem solved. He said primary wire was shorting out with a bunch of plain old wear and tear on the ol dizzy. Seems to run very good in the garage but I still cant drive the Merc due to messed up steering column shift linkage. With my newly Daytona rebuild carb and now rebuilt dizzy I'm ready to cruise. errr wait I cant shift = no cruising...darn. I have to get busy on that! I have all the parts just no time.
Anyways....I highly recommend both of the above mentioned vendors. And thank all of you here that have helped me.
One more thing...Ive always used Castrol 10w 30 but am considering Valvoline VR1 20w50 racing oil
recommend by that guy at H and H Flatheads.....I don't mean to start a argument but Thoughts please
Thanks again,
Randy

This message was edited by RAND on 5-24-17 @ 7:32 PM

TomO

05-25-2017 @ 6:50 AM

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Glad that your miss has been solved.

The flathead engines do not require the extra wear additives in the racing oil, but using it will not harm the engine, just your pocketbook. I prefer the 10W-30 oil. I believe that the thinner oil lubricates better and helps keep the engine cooler.

Tom

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