LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / New Miss

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: New Miss -- page: 1 2 3 4

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

RAND
03-06-2016 @ 7:40 PM
Member
Posts: 56
Joined: Sep 2012
          
I'm thinking that it might be the wire in the dizzy?
or the ignition switch? That wire was replaced quite some time ago by Joe Smiths son when Joe had his shop here in Atlanta. so its not the original wire. I'm thinking of sending the dizzy off for a rebuild or going with the *hevy conversion. What are the pros and cons? Merc is mostly stock and would like to keep it that way, but want dependability too! Did I just answer my own question?
So...what are the pros and cons?
Thanks Randy

TomO
03-07-2016 @ 4:37 PM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Randy, I do not know the pros and cons of switching distributors. The only one that I knew of converted back to the original distributor as his problem was elsewhere and he did not see any performance improvements.

Did you see my previous post? If you answer those questions, maybe I can give you direction on how to determine wher that problem is.

Tom

RAND
03-27-2016 @ 7:09 PM
Member
Posts: 56
Joined: Sep 2012
          
Sorry for taking so long to get back on this. Busy doing life.

Did the symptoms appear or get worse after the carb was rebuilt? (ran fine for awhile after new carb was installed)

Does it get worse turning and when you accelerate hard? (no..Same)

Does the engine respond normally when you accelerate when standing still? (No. seems to get worse as it warms up)

Your float level could be set wrong if the answer to these questions is yes. Run the car at idle and check the fuel level in the carb by removing the top. If it is near the correct level, lower it about 1/16". If it is low, raise it about 1/16". (sorry but I'm not comfortable taking the top off)

If the answer is no, check the wire to the ignition switch for any bare spots or a loose connection. check for loose connections inside the distributor or a poor ground on the condenser. ( I did look for loose wire and bad ground, but cant fugue out how to
check wire under the plate? I do have the dizzy out of the car to send out to Bubba, But first I think that I need to check the ignition switch first. Merc was rewired in 1981 by my Dad so I don't think that there is any bare wires. Maybe loose?
Tracker... mentioned he had the same symptoms and it ended up being the wire in the dizzy. but his got worse and completely died. Mine has never died.
Randy

This message was edited by RAND on 3-27-16 @ 7:14 PM

TomO
03-28-2016 @ 7:50 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Your answers to my questions in the previous post suggest that the problem is more likely a spark condition than a fuel starvation issue.

I did not mean for you to take the top off of the carburetor when the engine is running, just to take it off after it has idled for a few minutes to fill up the float bowl.

One way that I check for ignition problems is to use a spark tester like the NAPA SER 606.

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/SER606

I set it to 20 and connect it to one plug and start the engine. I should see a constant blue spark at idle. If the spark is red, orange or intermittent, I start looking for a cause.

Red or orange spark is usually due to a weak coil, weak condenser or low voltage going to the coil. It can also be caused by incorrect dwell.

Missing spark can be caused by a bad ignition switch, poor connection at switch, coil or points, a wire that is broken inside the insulation (usually occurs near the connection, A firm tug will usually show this up), poor grounding of the points or condenser (the condenser or points should not move when you try to move them) or a bare wire grounding out occasionally.



Tom

RAND
03-28-2016 @ 6:42 PM
Member
Posts: 56
Joined: Sep 2012
          
Thanks Tom...
Looks like Im gonna get one of those testers from Napa and report back.
Thanks again!
Randy

RAND
04-05-2016 @ 8:06 PM
Member
Posts: 56
Joined: Sep 2012
          
Got the tester but haven't had any time in the garage yet...Randy

RAND
04-09-2016 @ 3:13 PM
Member
Posts: 56
Joined: Sep 2012
          
Today I was finally able to hook up the spark tester that you suggested...very light blue spark at idle. and a diffident miss with the engine reved up. See video I attached...if it works.

I'm thinking that it might be the ignition switch?
Key can wiggle a bit in the switch too!

Any idea how to remove the ignition switch? and where I can get a new one?
I'm disappointed that I wont be able to use my original keys any more =/

I'll keep you posted....
Tkx for your help,
Randy

This message was edited by RAND on 4-9-16 @ 3:16 PM

RAND
04-09-2016 @ 3:39 PM
Member
Posts: 56
Joined: Sep 2012
          
try again video

RAND
04-09-2016 @ 3:50 PM
Member
Posts: 56
Joined: Sep 2012
          
Somebody please delete those video attachments
I can email it...but cant get it to work here

Thank you,
Randy

TomO
04-10-2016 @ 7:49 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Randy, the ignition switch and lock cylinder are 2 different parts. You can replace the ignition switch and keep your lock cylinder.

I don't think your problem is the switch. I would like you to try the test again with a reduced spark gap on the tester. Reduce the gap by a couple of turns and retry the test.

I have sent you a PM

Tom

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2 3 4


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1