| flatfoot | -- 10-25-2022 @ 4:57 PM |
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I had a very recent brake job completed. Now I have very little pedal goes almost to the floor. All the rods are good not bent to the extreme or if at all. When I apply the pedal goes almost the floor, 1-2 inches from it. I used to have 4-6 inches prior to the brake job. Anybody have any ideas that might help the problem? All drums are good and turned within specs. All clovis pins are new. Cables are very good. No, I do not want to change to hydraulics. This car is a survivor has not been frame off restored its nice,
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| nelsb01 | -- 10-25-2022 @ 7:02 PM |
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The feel of steel from pedal to wheel............... You should have steel rods as your brake activators--- but you mention cable? You mention brake job -- was it turning the drums and replacing the brake shoes? If so, then they may not have adjusted your brakes. Have you jacked up your vehicle to check if the brakes have been adjusted? Your brakes should be adjusted at the wheel and should be first adjusted to just drag, and then backed off. If that wasn't done, that could be what is causing your added pressure on the brake pedal. If they did adjust the brakes, then a good reference on how to check adjustment is in the 1936 Ford Reference Manual (Owners Manual) which you may or may not have in your glove box. Hope this helps -- if not others may have other suggestions
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| pauls39coupe | -- 10-25-2022 @ 7:03 PM |
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Compare your linings to the old ones. Some reproductions are much thinner than the originals. Also in a V-8 Time article the author noted that the steel part of the shoe was smaller than the original by about 1/8 of an inch. Combined with brake drums which have been turned, this will cause a low pedal. It does not take a lot of extra clearance at the brake to make a huge change in pedal height. We found this problem on a 1946 sedan. The cure was to reline the original shoes, which corrected the low pedal. The linings on the repo shoes the owner had installed were thinner than the worn out originals!!
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| 51woodie | -- 10-26-2022 @ 3:36 AM |
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flatfoot. You mentioned the drums were turned within specs. Were the shoes arced to match the curve of the drum face? If not, then what happens is the lining at the center of the shoes contact the drums first when the brakes are applied, then the shoe body will flex a bit, trying to put the full length of the lining into contact with the drum. If that makes sense. After I installed new shoes on my '46 Coupe, I had a "soft" pedal. Bleeding the system had no benefit. I pulled the drums after a few hundred miles driven, and found poor contact area on the shoes. The "soft" pedal and poor brake performance went away after the shoes were arced.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-26-2022 @ 6:36 AM |
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flatfoot did you adjust the brakes with brake rods disconnected ? this is what should have been done, then adjust the clevis till they line up so can be installed. now check you brake pedal if ok drive the car and see if it is ok, no brake pulls, etc as the brakes wear in you might have ro make a few more adustments, hope this helps, 37Ragtopman , Maine
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| flatfoot | -- 10-29-2022 @ 1:36 PM |
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The brakes have been adjusted and new old stock rods installed. All wheels are turned and adjusted. However, the pedal when applying the brakes normally goes below the gas pedal in order to barley stop the car. The mounting system is in excellent shape. Drums were turned but could not arc the shoes(nobody in this area does that). I had good pedal before the brakes being renewed. The shop unfastened the rods then adjusted each wheel and then the rods. Still no or very little pedal. I am afraid to drive it. It is really bad,
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| carcrazy | -- 10-29-2022 @ 3:14 PM |
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One thing you can do is have the brake shoes relined with extra thick truck type linings and have them ground down to properly fit within your drums. It has been about 12 years since I have had this done by a shop in San Jose, CA. The shop is B & A Friction Material, INC phone 408-286-9200. If all of your drums have been turned to the same ID, you can send one of your drums along with all eight of your shoes to them to have the new linings fitted correctly to your drums. This will provide about the best stopping power you can get with your current brake system. Hope this helps.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 10-30-2022 @ 2:03 PM |
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Have you looked at the metal part of shoes and compared them to originals? If they are only 1/8 of an inch shorter it will cause the problem you describe. Please let us know what you find. This message was edited by pauls39coupe on 10-30-22 @ 2:04 PM
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| JayChicago | -- 10-31-2022 @ 7:44 AM |
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Deleted. My post had to do with hydraulic brakes. Forgot we are talking mechanical brakes here. This message was edited by JayChicago on 10-31-22 @ 7:56 AM
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| flatfoot | -- 11-07-2022 @ 5:49 PM |
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I don't have the originals anymore. brakes had been replaced 20 years when I bought the car. I just replaced the replaced shoes. lol
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| 3w2 | -- 11-08-2022 @ 8:10 AM |
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Woven linings or molded, (as that matters with mechanical brakes)? This message was edited by 3w2 on 11-8-22 @ 1:31 PM
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| camsaure | -- 11-21-2022 @ 10:19 AM |
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On another note, if I recall correctly there are two positions for the pedal to cross shaft brake rod on 35-36 Fords. soft and aggressive. Also takes some time to get them adjusted perfect. Plus all the other replies above offering good advice. Try to get copies of the factory service bulletins on this.
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