| 46coupe | -- 06-11-2021 @ 8:58 AM |
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Trying the post again. My left rear lever shock broke the other day. The link that connects the lever arm with the bottom part by the spring pulled apart. I see where the lever fastens on because there is a nut fastened to a stud or bolt. The other end of the link looks like a ball and socket is fastened together. How do I get them apart? I also have looked for a person that rebuilds these shocks cause I thought I remembered seeing one of their ads. However I can't find the ad. can someone recommend anyone? I'm thinking about getting all 4 rebuilt. Thanks for your help/
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| 40cpe | -- 06-11-2021 @ 11:08 AM |
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andy falandes <andys.shoxs@gmail.com> Andy has rebuilt shocks for me and others here and on the Ford Barn. I've not heard any complaints on his work.
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| 51woodie | -- 06-12-2021 @ 2:46 AM |
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46coupe. If I understand your description, you are looking for the shock links that connect the lever arm to the axle attachment point. I had to replace the rear ones on my '46 Coupe, and I got them from Carpenter P/N 99A18055-A 4.75" long. Check your length. For some reason, Carpenter doesn't list the Marsden nuts that go on the link studs, so I had to get a package of them from Mac's, P/N 21A-351022. The first pic shows the rear shock arm and axle connection point, and the other shows a pic of the front axle link
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| 46coupe | -- 06-12-2021 @ 4:37 AM |
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Thanks to both of you for the website and pics of the parts involved. I'll be contacting Carpenters for the link. My other question is. How do I level the rear axle? It is at about a 20 degree angle right now while the car is on the lift. I tried to jack the left side of the axle up but no good. Would it be safe to put the jack under the drum in order to get the axle level and to attach the link at both ends? My lift is a Quick Jack so the car can only be lifted off the floor a short height.
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| TomO | -- 06-12-2021 @ 7:51 AM |
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It is not safe to try to jack up the axle by placing the jack under the drum. I would lower the car off of the Quick Jack and just jack up the rear end of the car and place a jack stand on the axle housing near the end that has the broken shock link. Then lower the jack until you can attach the link by bringing the shock arm closer to the axle housing. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 06-12-2021 @ 1:00 PM |
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Thanks Tom After I posted I found the threaded stud on the bottom part of the link. I had initially missed it as it was buried in paint, filler or something else. I figured the brake drum would not be a good idea as it’s cast and could break. I’m helping my wife dog sit this weekend at my son’s house so I’ve had time to think about other ways to level the two sides. I’d thought about doing what you suggested before reading your post. You’ve verified what I thought so now I know it will work.Thanks for your help and again to the other posters for answering the other parts of my questions. Brad
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| 3w2 | -- 06-12-2021 @ 5:52 PM |
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It sounds like there is a cause and effect link between your damaged shock link and the cars list to one side, namely a frozen shock absorber. With a frozen shock, normal road undulations will make quick work of the link and depending in what position the arm on shock froze in, it could cause one side of the car to be higher or lower than the other side until the shock absorber is removed or the arm eventually broken off.
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| 46coupe | -- 06-13-2021 @ 5:50 PM |
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I had not thought of a frozen shock. Last week I checked each shock by pushing down on each corner of the car. They seemed ok and the car was level. I put the car on the lift to start trying to find where a certain noise was coming from as mentioned in a previous post. I thought I would test drive the car which I did with no problems. The mysterious noise was still there. Returned to the garage and put the car up on the lift, that's when the link broke. I thought it had caught on something to stretch and break like that. The leaf spring is lower on the left side now and the right side has not come down to match it. BTW when I went to adjust the brakes while the car was lifted the first time, I could not spin the right rear tire completely. It was hitting the bottom part of the shock. Could this shock be frozen and caused the other side to break? When I disconnect the long lever from the link, should I be able to move the lever up and down a little bit at all? If I can't that might answer some of my questions?
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| 46coupe | -- 06-15-2021 @ 5:45 AM |
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Another question. The shocks are full of fluid with some seepage around the seals. How does the shock “freeze” up? I’m asking as these are original to the car and now there’s a possibility of buying 1-4 rebuilt ones or having these rebuilt. Thanks for your help.
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| 51woodie | -- 06-15-2021 @ 6:45 AM |
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46coupe. Sorry, but I'm a bit confused about the "frozen shock" issue. If the links are disconnected from the shock lever, you should be able to move the arms up and down by hand. Depending on the condition of the shock, and assuming it is not seized, the arm will be easy or stiff to move up and down by hand.
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| 46coupe | -- 06-15-2021 @ 11:54 AM |
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I can barely move the left rear lever arm. That’s the side with the broken link. I haven’t had time to disconnect the link on the passenger side to test that lever shock. It took my weight, 200 lbs, hanging on the lever to get it to move at all. Does that sound about normal since the car is a lot heavier? Possibly the link broke because of age and it just finally failed? I noticed the right rear link has been welded at some point and it had failed at the same location in the link.
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| TomO | -- 06-16-2021 @ 9:10 AM |
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That does not sound normal to me. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 06-18-2021 @ 5:02 AM |
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Hello Tom What is normal in this case? Would it be the amount of resistance like I experienced, or should I be able to work the lever up and down more easily? Also how does a shock like this "freeze"?
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| TomO | -- 06-18-2021 @ 7:53 AM |
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I don't know how strong you are, but my strength is probably average for an 87 year old and I am able to move the arm on a shock in both directions while laying underneath the car or from the wheel well with the tire off. As guess, I would say that the resistance is between 30-50# in both directions. A shock becomes frozen when it runs out of fluid and corrosion sets in. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 06-19-2021 @ 6:11 AM |
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Thanks for your response. I’ve checked the fluid level and it’s full. If you can pull/push on the lever and it moves that easily then something else must be going on. While hanging on the lever with the weight of my upper body and pulling down with both arms the lever will barely move. Pushing up results in the same outcome. I’ll try working the lever up/down to see if it gets easier. I’m wondering if air got trapped in there somehow.
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| 3w2 | -- 06-19-2021 @ 6:47 AM |
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Air isn't your problem as it is far more compressible than shock fluid. It it obvious that your shock is not functional as intended and it has led to the failure of the shock link and likely the cause of the list of your rear end. Remove the shock and send it to Andy Falandes (andys.shokx@gmail.com) to see if it can be saved.
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| TomO | -- 06-19-2021 @ 7:31 AM |
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The shock may have been filled after it failed for the PO. I agree with 3w2 that you should have all of your shocks rebuilt. The ride will be more comfortable and the car will handle better. Bad shock can make it a chore to drive the car. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 06-19-2021 @ 7:34 AM |
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Yeah that’s where I’m headed. I’m going to check the right rear shock for comparison before I contact the source you gave me,when I return home. Thanks for your help.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-21-2021 @ 7:23 AM |
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If the arm moves with your 200# I suggest you try adjusting the shock by moving the adjuster CCW a small amount, to get it to move more freely. If it remains very hard or leaks a rebuild is in order.
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| 46coupe | -- 07-17-2021 @ 8:17 AM |
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Finally have gotten time to return to this project. I have tried what you suggested but the end of the leave spring still contacts the broken link. Do I also have to remove the two flat pieces and let the spring hang there while I try to drive the broken link out of its hole? I've been trying for days to remove the other end of the broken link from the lever and have been unsuccessful. Penetrating oil hasn't worked and today I tried heating it and that didn't work. It acts like the bushing and pin have rust welded together. Obviously I'm concerned about removing the other piece from under the car even after I get the clearance to do it. Thanks in advance for your input.
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| RAK402 | -- 07-18-2021 @ 12:43 AM |
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I struggled and struggled to get the old links off of my 1940 sedan, then found tools that would do it easily: https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=14516&keywords=shock%20links This message was edited by RAK402 on 7-18-21 @ 12:44 AM
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| 46coupe | -- 07-18-2021 @ 10:29 AM |
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Is the ball joint separater a universal or the Abigail? Thanks. I also posted on the other discussion above this one.
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| RAK402 | -- 07-18-2021 @ 12:52 PM |
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I don't understand the term "Abigail," my apologies. Here are links to both tools: That one will not work on the lower end of the rear links that are partially blocked by the rear brake drum. They look similar to the ones shown in the Ford Service Bulletins for 1932 to 1937, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BJGLYYJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This one easily worked on the rear ones behind the brake drum. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ENEFUS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There is a lot of force involved-these things pop out suddenly/violently and quite loudly. Be very careful.
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| 46coupe | -- 07-19-2021 @ 1:19 AM |
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Abigail is the name of another separator they showed on Amazon. I'll order the one shown today. My problem doesn't seem to be the backing plate but the connection where the end of the leaf spring is fastened on the left rear. The link stud is abutting that connection. Thanks again for your help and the link.
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| RAK402 | -- 07-19-2021 @ 10:29 AM |
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Is it the Spring Shackle that is in the way?
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| 46coupe | -- 07-20-2021 @ 9:41 AM |
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Yes. on the driver side where the shock is removed. The passenger side has no interference . Of course the shock is still hooked up there. Maybe that's the difference. Also I noticed that the tire on the passenger side is about 4 inches closer to the fender than the driver's side. I don't know how that can happen.
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| 46coupe | -- 07-22-2021 @ 7:59 AM |
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The tool arrived yesterday. I tried it out this morning. It didn't work. I think the link and bushing have rust welded together. I've used penetrating oil, heat and a hammer. none of which worked. Lucky that it's on the lever end of the shock and Andy probably has an arbor press to break it free. Hopefully the piece of link that is blocked by the shackle will come off. I will try what Tom suggested earlier to try and get the shackle out the way by jacking the axle.
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| RAK402 | -- 07-23-2021 @ 3:16 PM |
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I am sorry the tools didn't work. I went through everything that you did (my links were frozen in place for 46 years-I couldn't get them loose in all that time). It did take a lot of pressure from the tools to get them out, but they did come out. When you do get them removed, please post how you did it sir. Again, I am sorry those tools didn't work for you.
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| 46coupe | -- 07-24-2021 @ 4:20 AM |
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Thanks for answering. I will try again and let you know what happens.
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| 51woodie | -- 07-24-2021 @ 3:25 PM |
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46coupe. I had to change links on my 46 Super Deluxe, and it was a bear. I finally found this tool at Princess Auto (Canada), Harbor Freight may have them in the US. I backed the nut off flush with the stud to protect the stud threads, the forked arm went between the shock arm and link, with the lever on top of the stud/nut.. I cranked the bolt as hard as I could, with no success. I fired up the oxy/acet torch with a small tip, heated the outer end of the arm where the stud passes through, and the stud popped free. It didn't take much heat. The OLFA knife is for size reference.
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| 51woodie | -- 07-27-2021 @ 11:22 AM |
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46. Have you had any success with your shock link removal?
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| 46coupe | -- 07-27-2021 @ 12:19 PM |
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Got it removed yesterday with the tool you show. Now I have to remove the half that is on the car. It's blocked by the spring shackle. Someone suggested I jack the axle up closest to the link to get clearance which I will try in the next few days. Since removing the rear driver side shock, the front end of the passenger side has dipped down toward the floor. Is that normal and when I finally receive and install the new shock will the right front become level again? Thanks for all your help to everyone who has posted on this thread.
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| 46coupe | -- 08-02-2021 @ 4:53 AM |
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There is still a problem removing the other part of the link from the car. The ball on the link is right against the shackle. I have tried to raise the left side of the axle as suggested, but what happened was the whole car was raised. I have pics but can't seem to pull them from my email file. Would you or someone email me to get the pics and possibly help with a solution? My email is nhhistand@yahoo.com Thanks for any help offered, Brad
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| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=14910 |