| cwaszczyk | -- 07-30-2020 @ 3:41 PM |
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I was checking my brake lights because I thought that the fuse was blown and they weren't working. Found out they are just needed more pressure on the pedal. I did notice that the drivers side seems to come on later than the passenger side. Also when I turn on the parking lights the ds gets dimmer and the ps does get brighter. Any ideas? Could it just be a wrong bulb? I will swap them to check but anything else? Any input would be great. TY
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| nelsb01 | -- 07-30-2020 @ 9:37 PM |
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There are a number of things to check. First question is what type brake fluid are you using? If using silcone brake fluid, your stop light switch could be not working correctly as silcone brake fluid likes to destroy the internals of the switch. Next, is check the wire connections under the dash. Above the steering wheel you will find a large group of wires and connectors. One of those connections goes to the tail lights. I used to have bad working tail lights and tried everything, but it ended up being a loose connection under the dash. And, of course there is the ground issue. With the tail lights acting like you say, it most likely is a grounding issue, so check all the connections and also check to see if the screws and nuts are dirty at the tail light units. This is just a start and i know that others will have more to add.
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| JayChicago | -- 07-31-2020 @ 8:38 AM |
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"when I turn on the parking lights the ds gets dimmer and the ps does get brighter." Based on that symptom, my guess is a poor path to ground on the ds tail/stop light. Path to ground is from the light bulb base to the socket, socket to the tail light housing, housing to the body. Something loose/dirty in that path.
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| cwaszczyk | -- 07-31-2020 @ 1:42 PM |
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Thank you I’ll start with checking connectionss and grounds.
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| 51504bat | -- 07-31-2020 @ 2:09 PM |
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My guess is you have 2 issues. First is a ground problem and the second is the switch itself. The stock off the shelf switch I had in my '39 p/u didn't activate the brake lights until the brakes were fully applied. I purchased a low pressure switch from a supplier in Orange County, CA . I have the info down in my shop and I can post it later today. The low pressure switch allowed the brake lights to work when I just tapped the brakes as opposed to only coming on with full pedal. Others have used a switch from Harley Davidson as a replacement for leaking switches. Don't know if they are low pressure or not. ______________ No signature
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| JayChicago | -- 07-31-2020 @ 2:54 PM |
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51504bat Did that low pressure brake switch have the correct bullet connectors? If so, I would like to hear where you got it. I replaced my brake switch with a Harley Davidson part because it does come on with less pressure. But I had to create a wire transition pieces to go from the original bullet connectors to the modern spade terminals on the HD switch.
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| cwaszczyk | -- 07-31-2020 @ 3:54 PM |
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On a side note does anyone know what the bulb number is for the front parking lights? I know tail are 1154. Similar but slightly different side nubs.
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| 51504bat | -- 07-31-2020 @ 8:02 PM |
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1057 12 volt single element 1129 6 volt single element if my memory is correct. ______________ No signature
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| 51504bat | -- 07-31-2020 @ 8:20 PM |
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CPP Classic Performance Products www.classicperform.com 800-522-5004 Part number CPP-LBPS yes has the same bullet connectors as a stock switch ______________ No signature
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-01-2020 @ 5:37 AM |
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In regards to the bulbs. Looks like both of those are a single connection point. Mine is a double? I also checked cup and they had no price on the brake switch. I’ll call them during the week This message was edited by cwaszczyk on 8-1-20 @ 5:38 AM
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| TomO | -- 08-01-2020 @ 8:12 AM |
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The turn signal front bulb is a 1154, same as the stop light bulb. Advance Auto Parts has a free lifetime replacement switch for the stop light switch. My experience is that the switches last about 4-5 years with silicone fluid before they require extra pressure to activate them. The tail lights on the 49 cars are not very bright, I would change to a LED bulb. Tom
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| 51504bat | -- 08-01-2020 @ 9:01 AM |
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I paid 16 bucks plus shipping when I bought mine a year ago. Per their web site all there products carry a lifetime warranty. ______________ No signature
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-01-2020 @ 9:21 AM |
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Mine looks slightly different. The two nubs on the side are both at the bottom of the bulb the 1154 are offset one low and one slightly higher. I’ll try the 1154 but ...
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| victorb | -- 08-01-2020 @ 3:31 PM |
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Single contact bulbs will have the pins aligned. Dual contact bulbs will have pins that are offset so they are installed correctly. Check you light bulb housing to see how many contacts there are so you can match the correct bulb.
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-01-2020 @ 4:46 PM |
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Double checked 1154 will not work and it is a double contact.
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-01-2020 @ 6:21 PM |
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So i took the sockets out of the backing plate and now the lights don’t work when I turn on the parking and head lights I take it that’s normal?
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| victorb | -- 08-01-2020 @ 6:44 PM |
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Does the housing have one or two contacts? Use a 1129 single single contact bulb if it is one contact. What number bulb was the one you are replacing? The original one that isn’t working correctly.
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-01-2020 @ 8:06 PM |
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If it had a number it’s gone. Socket is a double connector. Now I’m having issue getting brake light bulbs back into their housing. This shouldn’t be this difficult.
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| JayChicago | -- 08-02-2020 @ 8:52 AM |
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Are you using an 1154 bulb as TomO said? The double contact bulb in your picture above appears to have the side pins aligned, which is a bulb in use prior to 1940. That early bulb can fit into your socket, but it won’t stay in, because the side pins are not correct for your socket. The correct bulb is 6 volt, double contact, side pins off-set from each other so there is only one orientation for the bulb to stay in the socket. The side pin deeper on the bulb goes in the socket slot that is goes down deeper in the socket. To your earlier question: yes, if you have the socket off the backing plate, no metal-to-metal contact, nothing will light up. This message was edited by JayChicago on 8-2-20 @ 9:07 AM
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-02-2020 @ 11:31 AM |
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Thank you all. I was able to address the brake lights by taking light housings and pigtail on the bench. Things are working better especially the dimming issue with lights on. I will try the 1154s again to make sure. I did notice that the d/s one seems stuck which could explain wrong bulbs.
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-02-2020 @ 1:55 PM |
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1158 looks to be the bulb number. I’m sure that the sockets must have been modified at one time.
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| TomO | -- 08-03-2020 @ 7:36 AM |
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The 1158 bulb was mainly used in pre WWII cars, but they were in use in some cars after the war. The Ford supplier may have had some sockets left over and used them on your car. The 1158 bulb should have TOP stenciled on the top of the base to make sure that it is installed correctly. You can look at the contacts on the bulb and in the socket to orient the bulb if it does not have the stencil. Your auto parts store can order new bulbs for you. Tom
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-03-2020 @ 3:13 PM |
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Lol no stencil but it was definitely the right bulb. Or at least the right one for now. Now it’s time to tackle the turn signals. God help me.
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| cwaszczyk | -- 08-04-2020 @ 3:28 PM |
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So I noticed that one front parking light had two gaskets and the other just one. With one the lenses are very loose. What’s everyone else doing?
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