| 37Rackbody | -- 07-14-2022 @ 2:10 PM |
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I've recently inherited a 1937 Rackbody (wheel base 112"). My wife and I had been were cleaning up her mother's estate when we found the truck tucked away on one of the barns on the farm. The vehicle registration for the last year on the road was also found. Last registered in 1949. Additional previous registrations were also located. I would like to start by putting the correct size tires on it. The tires are all recaps and the fronts don't match the rears. All tire have tubes and don't stay inflated more than two weeks. MY FIRST QUESTION: Will tubeless tires stay inflated on the riveted artillery style wheels? Also looking for a recommended way to turning the old V8 over safely after these 73 years. There will be other questions as I get to know the truck. Thank you for any help you can offer.
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| Jeepbut | -- 07-14-2022 @ 6:44 PM |
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I would pull the plugs and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it sit a week or so before trying to turn it over.
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| 51504bat | -- 07-14-2022 @ 7:49 PM |
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I run tubeless radials on the wide five wheels on my '39 p/u. The rears stay inflated no problem. The fronts leak down about 5 pounds or so about every 2 weeks. Not sure if the leak is thru the bead or the rivets. My guess is that the front tires flex during turns and that is the reason for the leak down and why the rears don't lose air. But that is just a guess. Maybe this winter I'll dismount the tires and bead blast the inside of the wheels and seal them with flex seal to see if that solves the problem. Nice truck by the way. ______________ No signature
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| nelsb01 | -- 07-14-2022 @ 8:47 PM |
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Nice 1937 Ford Stakebed As you may know, it is a very unique body for the 112 inch wheel base 1/2 ton pickup. This message was edited by nelsb01 on 7-14-22 @ 8:48 PM
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 07-15-2022 @ 6:11 AM |
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After dismounting the tires and cleaning the wheels, I would "smear" clear silicone over each rivit before I mounted the new tires. JMO Paul in CT
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| 37Rackbody | -- 07-15-2022 @ 6:34 AM |
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51504bat, I knew asking one or two questions would lead to additional questions. In your response you say "wide 5 wheels" Is that the proper name for the wheels on my truck? Could I also ask what size and manufacturer tires you run? thanks for your help.
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| 37Rackbody | -- 07-15-2022 @ 6:41 AM |
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nelsb01, I'm now assuming "Stake Bed" is the correct nomenclature for the truck. I'm just beginning to research the trucks. thank you for your comments. This message was edited by 37Rackbody on 7-15-22 @ 6:43 AM
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| nelsb01 | -- 07-15-2022 @ 7:49 AM |
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The first picture you show has your proper tire size 6.00 x 16 I have always used tubes with my 6.00 x 16 tires. And yes, wide 5 if the 'nickname' that has been given for the rims for 1936, 1937, 1938 and 1939 112 inch wheel base Ford vehicles. Once you remove the hubcaps you will see the bolt pattern and then it will make sense.
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| 51504bat | -- 07-15-2022 @ 11:25 AM |
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215/70/R16. Yes the wide fives on my '39 p/u are the same as your '37. Think early style VW 5 lug wheels but the center hole in the VW is smaller. One way to tell the difference at a glance is that a Ford wide five will fit over your head and a VW won't. Of course in this case regarding heads, size does matter. ______________ No signature
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-15-2022 @ 12:44 PM |
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Commercials would have 6.50 x 16 tires. They were optional over the 6.00 x 16, and would have been on most commercials. You will likely find a wide rubber band inside each wheel to cushion the tube from abrasion from the rivets. If this is in decent condition, use it, find replacements, or just a layer of duct tape will do. MMO in all cylinders, barely move by hand the first day, more MMO, move a little more second day… should take a week or more to turn it over one revolution. Drain & flush, then add new oil. . Alan
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| 51504bat | -- 07-15-2022 @ 1:50 PM |
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If the engine doesn't easily free up with MMO don't force it. The valves may be stuck in addition to the pistons. A 50'50 mix of ATF and acetone is good concoction for loosening rusty parts. When you get it free consider checking the oil pump pick up screen. Don't know if your pan has a clean out like the truck pan on the 8ba in my '39 pickup has or not. If it doesn't you'd have to drop the pan to check the pickup. Your decision but for than one engine has been fired up after sitting for years only to loose,oil pressure from a clogged pickup leading to more (expensive) issues. One other thing. Once you do get it running the clutch disc may be stuck to the flywheel. Don't ask me how I know. ______________ No signature
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-19-2022 @ 7:08 AM |
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nice BARN FIND, I think FORD called that a PLATFORM UTILITY, pretty rare truck, this is a passenger car frame, same wheel base I had one exactly like it and sold it ithe 1990's My 2 cents 37Ragtopman, Maine
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| rustedorrotting | -- 07-30-2022 @ 10:35 AM |
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for what's worth, I have a 41 1/2 ton and i went with 1935 ( i believe ) ford 16 inch wire wheels. You have to buy or make spacers for the wheels to fit the 41 but i think your truck might not need the spacers. The wide white walls don't look bad either
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| rustedorrotting | -- 12-05-2022 @ 4:11 PM |
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1935 ford 16 inch wire wheels look really good on these vehicles. You would need spacers, but they are available
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| rustedorrotting | -- 12-05-2022 @ 4:19 PM |
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one bit of advice, the 94 Holley's/ford or Stromberg carbs will flood if you supply more than 2.5 pounds of fuel pressure and you will wind up with diluted oil, I found out the hard way. I thought I would use an inline electric pump and now the engine is apart so I can ascertain the damage. Inmo
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| rustedorrotting | -- 12-05-2022 @ 4:25 PM |
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Have you ever heard of the New Port antique hill climb? It's in Illinois the first weekend in October. They run vehicles up an asphalt road with about a 30% grade one at a time against the clock and the newest you can run is a 1942.
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