| Airfritz | -- 01-29-2020 @ 1:25 PM |
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My new acquisition pickup needs sheet metal work o the front floor of the bed First, is there someone who makes patch panel for this and since this bed was at one time removed and ‘reinstalled ?’ Is there any diagrams or information on correctly reinstalling the reinstallation.
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| nelsb01 | -- 01-29-2020 @ 5:03 PM |
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The picture does look a little bad. Looking at the rivets along the edge it looks like it could be the original bed floor. I would suggest you contact Mack Hils in Mobridge MO about a replacement floor panel, if you decide to go that way. http://mack-products.com/
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| Henry | -- 01-30-2020 @ 6:52 PM |
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I have 1934 Pickup and I went to Mack's in MO to buy an new floor. The floor is riveted to the bed so you need to get rivets from Mack as well. I had a friend help me with the rivets (also air compressor). I was pleased with the floor from Mack's and it was "spot on" like the one I replaced. I had about a foot(12inches) of floor rusted away up by the cab. picture of my pickup is in the gallery. Henry Henry Bhotto1928@aol.com
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| Airfritz | -- 01-30-2020 @ 7:59 PM |
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That is where mine has a program also. I’m havin som difficulty removing the sug frame from the sheet metal, any hints. To me it looks as if the are some rivets holding them together. I can’t see any other way to replace the wood sub flooring and the floor itself
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| nelsb01 | -- 01-30-2020 @ 8:40 PM |
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You will have to use a grinder to remove the rivets. As for the wood sub-floor, that was placed in the box frame before the end plate was attached, so that is another issue to deal with. Here is a picture of my 1936 box that I purchased from Mack Hils. If you have the funds, a reproduction is the way to go. Yes, you will have to cut the carriage bolt holes in the front of the floor, and also the rear fender bolt holes, but as my body shop guy said -- to repair my original bed would have cost about twice what a new bed cost. And that was just in labor to straighten and weld.
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| Henry | -- 01-31-2020 @ 7:50 AM |
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What I did, was remove all rivets from sides of bed holding the floor. Then was able to unscrew the screws holding floor to bed. Also had to remove(cut) carriage bolts(4) holding floor to sub frame. The floor can then be removed. The new floor is then place down and attached with carriage bolts and rivets. That is what I did. A lot of work but I had significant "floor loss". Much more than what you have. As you mentioned, a "patch panel" would be much easier! Maybe you can "fabricate" a patch panel. That would be one way to go. It all depends on how you want you bed to look like (factory original) or functional/looks repaired. It is up to you. If you won the lotto, then spend as much as you want! I did not win the lotto, so it was pricey and time consuming. Henry Henry Bhotto1928@aol.com
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| Airfritz | -- 02-03-2020 @ 7:30 AM |
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Thanks to all for your responses, I took the bed apart with the intention to replace the floor. However, it turned into a pluming type nightmare. The more it came apart the more I realized that there is no way this is going back together since there was more rusted stuff to contend with. Good tail gate good subframe and hardware and ‘usable’ sides. If any of you need any of this for you project, it’s available in Sandwich, IL
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