| Gene's40 | -- 10-10-2025 @ 3:36 PM |
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I am trying to remove the passenger door hinge pin so that I can mount a new hinge mirror from Carpenter. When the car was restored by the previous owner the new door hinge pin was mushroomed to prevent it getting loose. I took a dramel tool to remove the mushroomed metal. I bought a new door hinge pin removal tool. I have used WD40 on the hinge but the pin is being stubborn. Any suggestions ? Gene Talley
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-10-2025 @ 6:11 PM |
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Those hinge pin removal tools are cute. Hang it on your wall. Use a BFH with a solid backup. Then when that doesn't work, carefully drill the pin with increasingly larger bits till the pin will finally move for you. Alan
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| TomC750 | -- 10-10-2025 @ 6:40 PM |
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WD40 is not the right penetrant to use . Ideally use a 50/50 mixture of transmission fluid and acetone. Let it soak good, maybe even overnight and then get out the hammer. TomC750
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| Gene's40 | -- 10-10-2025 @ 7:42 PM |
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Thanks Alan and TomC for your tips ! Gene Talley
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| kubes40 | -- 10-11-2025 @ 6:15 AM |
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Alan and Tom have both hit this one squarely on the head. I especially like the reference to those tools being "cute". I had just last week removed two pins. Yes, both were drilled to nearly the diameter of the pin and both were then fairly easy to knock out. I leave about 1/4" of the pin intact (I don't drill through completely) so I can place a drift down "the hole" and have a solid part to hammer against., Just be careful to drill straight... Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| 51504bat | -- 10-11-2025 @ 10:07 AM |
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Delete This message was edited by 51504bat on 10-11-25 @ 10:08 AM
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| carcrazy | -- 10-11-2025 @ 1:52 PM |
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Another method to remove the stuck door hinge pin is to use a C-Clamp. This method might damage the paint on the top of the hinge. Place the C-Clamp so the threaded portion is on the bottom, use a bolt of a size slightly smaller than the O.D. of the pin and a socket wrench slightly larger than the O.D. of the head of the pin. Place these items as follows: Socket on top of hinge, top of C-Clamp on top of socket, bolt with threaded portion facing up under the pin and C-Clamp threaded portion under the bolt. Soak the hinge with the best penetrating oil you can find and let soak for awhile. Tighten the C-Clamp until the hinge pin is pushed up out of the hinge. This method worked for me when working on a 1940 Ford Tudor.
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| Gene's40 | -- 10-12-2025 @ 11:41 AM |
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I built a wooden piece the holds the lower door lip and the use of my floor jack. Should I open the door half way and then try to remove the pin ? Gene Talley
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-12-2025 @ 7:10 PM |
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No. The door latch is perfectly capable of adequate support, and secondly, opening the door even partially drastically reduces your access for removal., while exposing the door to possible instability. Alan
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| Gene's40 | -- 10-14-2025 @ 4:53 PM |
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Thanks Alan Gene Talley
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| Gene's40 | -- 11-05-2025 @ 8:06 PM |
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I bought Kroil oil and used it daily on the hinge. I've tried the C clamp method to no advil. I've tried to drill from the bottom of the hinge but apparently when the car was restored the re-assembly used hardened steel which has made it tough. I am not giving up ! Gene Talley
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| Gene's40 | -- 11-05-2025 @ 8:09 PM |
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Update > I bought Kroil and applied it daily on the door hinge pin. I've tried the C clamp method to force the pin out but it's being stubborn. I am not giving up ! Gene Talley
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| carcrazy | -- 11-05-2025 @ 10:38 PM |
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One thing you can try but you have to be very careful while doing it, is to use bee's wax as a penetrant. You have to heat the pin up hot enough to get a bee's wax candle to melt on it and get into the hinge. Too much heat will damage your paint and could start a fire. If done properly this method will work. It may take several heating and liquid bee's wax applications to get the hinge pin to come out.
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| kubes40 | -- 11-06-2025 @ 5:30 AM |
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Gene, I have never heard of a hardened hinge pin. I suppose that's possible but probable? Not likely. Drill from the top - downward. Start by making a punch mark on center. Then, with a good quality center drill, start the "path". Then move incrementally with drill bits. I start with 1/8" diameter and move up sizes by no more than .032" at a time. I drill just past the center part of the hinge. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| Gene's40 | -- 11-06-2025 @ 7:58 PM |
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Mike, I used my 1400 heat gun applied on the rear portion of the hinge; after red hot I used my center punch and struck from the bottom with a somewhat heavy machinest hammer. Still no luck. I'll try your method of drilling from the top starting with an 1/8 " bit. Gene Gene Talley
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