Topic: Trunk Latch Problem...1940 Fordor


RAK402    -- 10-27-2022 @ 2:17 PM
  I am getting closer to getting my car finished, but ran into a problem this afternoon-I cannot open the trunk.

The lock is unlocked, the handle turns to the left as it should, but the trunk latch does not release.

The handle and base are reproductions.

It did work fine until recently. I took it apart the other day to change the bulb and am wondering if I re-assembled something incorrectly.

The problem is that I can't get it open to see what is going on.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


kubes40    -- 10-27-2022 @ 4:17 PM
  Did you remove the base and / or handle when changing the bulb?
Do you feel the latch mechanism turning but perhaps not enough?

Mike "Kube" Kubarth


RAK402    -- 10-27-2022 @ 6:41 PM
  Mike,

I removed the base and the handle.

It feels like it turns almost enough.

I can take a photo of it at the full extent of rotation.


40 Coupe    -- 10-28-2022 @ 7:09 AM
  Try pushing down on the lid when the handle is turned. The light bulb can be replaced by turning the square base of the bulb socket without removing the base.


RAK402    -- 10-28-2022 @ 9:53 AM
  Looking at it this morning, it doesn't look like the trunk handle is turning far enough.

This is full deflection...

I did try pushing down and turning, but that didn't work so far.


kubes40    -- 10-28-2022 @ 4:45 PM
  With that little amount of "twist", it appears the trunk is locked.


Mike "Kube" Kubarth


RAK402    -- 10-28-2022 @ 9:32 PM
  Mike,

I have the old trunk latch here on my desk-it turns a good ten to 15 degrees more than the one on the car (the one that doesn't work.

When locked, both move only a few degrees from center.

I agree that it has something to do with the lock.

I will try it again tomorrow (I tried it today with no success).

I am contemplating removing the back seat and the cardboard, then trying to reach the latch and remove it from the inside with a very long socket extension. The spare tire is not in place (I was delayed in putting it in the trunk when the tire store ripped the innertube). Snapping the rear seat in was not fun, so I am not looking forward to trying this.


kubes40    -- 10-29-2022 @ 5:56 AM
  I believe at this point, climbing through the back seat is the wisest choice. You should be able to place a rather thick flat blade screwdriver between the latch and catch and pry it up / open.

I'd suggest once you have the lid open, remove the latch mechanism and make sure the square hole for the handle is not worn out. The hole should be nearly size for size with the shaft of the handle.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth


JayChicago    -- 10-29-2022 @ 8:24 AM
  If you do wind up having to go into the trunk from back seat, I suggest you have a "safety man" (or woman) with you. Just in case you get stuck in there head-first. The assistant will also be needed to turn the handle from the outside, and hand you tools.


JayChicago    -- 10-29-2022 @ 8:34 AM
  Another thought:
We are going into winter. If you are in a cold climate, maybe try again when well below freezing. Maybe, just maybe., the latch bolt will shrink enough to clear the strike plate when very cold.

BTW: poster's location is not shown in his profile. So maybe my post here is useless cuz he lives in Florida. Why the heck do so many members fail to enter their location in their profile?!


RAK402    -- 10-29-2022 @ 11:34 AM
  Thank you all for the advice-it is greatly appreciated.

JayChicago,

My apologies for the lack of information on my profile-I am in California.


RAK402    -- 11-03-2022 @ 8:21 PM
  I got the trunk open this morning (by going in through the rear seat area).

There were several things causing problems, but I found the difference in the Deck Lid Handle Bases (the major part of the problem) very interesting.

The relieved area around where the lock portion of the handle sits, when fully inserted into the base is slightly different is different between the original and the repro:

The original base (photo on left) has a larger relieved area (it ends on the right at about the 1:30 position).

The repro base (photo on right) has a smaller relieved area (ending at about the 2:00 position).

This is enough to prevent the repro handle from turning as far as the original and enough to cause a problem in opening the trunk.

I increased the relieved area in the repro handle with a Dremel tool to mimic the original.

That, plus a little shimming of the latch itself, and I can now open and close the trunk.


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