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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Vapor Lock

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Discussion Topic: Vapor Lock -- page: 1 2

Old Henry

06-08-2015 @ 2:27 PM

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AirTex can be used in line with mechanical pump which will pull through it. I use my electric pump enough that I have it on a toggle switch and running through a pressure regulator when the vapor lock just won't go away.

GJRoberts

06-08-2015 @ 6:49 AM

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Can the Airtek be used in line with the mechanical pump? Is it wired as a momentary on system until the engine starts, or is a full time pump bypassing the mechanical system?

Old Henry

12-27-2014 @ 7:30 AM

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Many use and recommend Airtex E8902 for 6 volt and Airtex E8016S for 12 volt. I use the 6 volt one back by the gas tank. Attached is a photo of my installation.

TomO

12-26-2014 @ 8:55 AM

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Traditional vapor lock occurred in the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor or in the sediment bowl for the fuel pump. The fuel would vaporize in the line or the bowl starving the engine for fuel. Early Ford V-8s are more likely to experience this as the fuel pump sits on top of the engine.

If the fuel pump keeps enough pressure on the output side, it raises the boiling point of the fuel. The input to the fuel pump should get enough cool gas from the tank to prevent it from boiling.

To minimize chances of vapor lock, make sure that there are no vacuum leaks to the input side of the fuel pump, make sure that the push rod is not worn and delivers a full 1/4" stroke measured at the operating arm of the fuel pump, make sure that the valves in the fuel pump are working properly and that the fuel pump delivers at least 2 1/2 lbs of pressure. If you have duals, make sure that the exhaust system is at least 2" away from the fuel line at the closest point. You may still have to wrap the exhaust pipe to keep the heat from the fuel line.

These steps will help in most situations, but cannot ensure that you will not have the problem in higher elevations, especially if you fill up in the lower elevations. John's solution of the ice on the fuel pump is the best for occasional vapor lock.

Electric fuel pumps are placed near the tank as they are better at pushing fuel than sucking fuel. If not installed correctly, they can add to fuel delivery problems.

Tom

MICHV8

12-26-2014 @ 7:33 AM

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Having never had an electric fuel pump, would someone recommend a good one? And why install at the tank vs near the fuel pump? thanks

6lucky13

12-25-2014 @ 8:51 AM

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Sorry...posted to the wrong thread.

12-22-2014 @ 7:00 PM

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That hose with a check valve will not prevent vapor lock

This message was edited by JM on 12-22-14 @ 7:04 PM

6lucky13

12-22-2014 @ 1:53 PM

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There is an advertisement in the V8 Times for a fuel hose with a built-in check valve. This would seem to prevent draining of gas from the carburetor. This may be an easy fix compared to installing an electric fuel pump to prevent carburetor drain. Has anyone tried this approach? Would appreciate thoughts.

Jon

12-22-2014 @ 9:59 AM

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On our 2013 cross country tour to the GNM in Lake Tahoe, the majority of our cars experienced Vapor lock quite frequently on the 90°+ days, at the higher elevations, using the 10% alcohol enriched gasoline. We had about 20 Flathead powered cars from '32 to '53 on this tour.
I knew the VL problem with my '35 fordor was not caused by ignition issues. I could see the alcohol in the gas boiling/bubbling in the glass bowl of the fuel pump. This caused a pressure buildup in the line that the fuel pump could no overcome.
I carried ice water in the cooler strapped to my luggage rack, and whenever VL occured I would place an ice water soaked towel on the fuel pump for a few minutes. After this, the engine would start as soon as fresh gas was pumped into the carburetor. This worked every time.
Those who had backup inline electric fuel pumps would just flip them on for a few seconds, and then be on their way.

John

David J

12-22-2014 @ 9:04 AM

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Testy ? The intent was-is to point out that checking if the " vapor lock " issue is fuel or ignition is REAL simple and takes about 5 seconds to verify strength of spark at all 8 cyls . That is if you are using UD16 plugs . BTW they cost no more than regular plugs [ well last time I bought a few boxes anyway ] and really work well for checking spark at all 8 cylinders . Now that is useful info and gets you on the right track in seconds . Non oxy gas cures all else for me anyway . David J

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