| V8JR | -- 12-20-2014 @ 6:41 PM |
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What suggestions is there for eliminating/minimizing vapor lock? Thanks for any thoughts - V8JR
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| David J | -- 12-20-2014 @ 6:59 PM |
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Running nonoxy gas helps . All that's needed with my cars .
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| Drbrown | -- 12-20-2014 @ 8:33 PM |
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Electric fuel pump at tank.
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| trjford8 | -- 12-21-2014 @ 8:24 AM |
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Are you sure you have vapor lock? Many times a bad coil or other ignition problems can give similar symptoms.
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| DD931 | -- 12-21-2014 @ 1:38 PM |
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I'll bet that at least 80% of "vapor lock" problems are actually bad coils!!
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| David J | -- 12-21-2014 @ 2:01 PM |
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It is not hard to tell the difference between no or weak spark and lack of fuel . I personally use champion UD16 plugs because they have a hollow center and you can see spark in there as the motor runs . Really handy to diagnose most ignition or miss issues by simply looking into the plugs . If you have distributor or wire issues it shows up real well . Yes coils & condensers can cause symptoms similar to vapor lock but again it is real easy to tell if it is spark or fuel supply issues . AND the person asking the question asked about " vapor lock " NOT ignition problems . As I posted before simply using non-oxy gas is all I do and I have no vapor lock issues . This is stock 33-34 cars only and yes the ignition stuff is in good order .
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| TomO | -- 12-22-2014 @ 7:14 AM |
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David J, It is not necessary to get testy, because someone tried to give V8JR another item to look at besides your answer. V8JR did ask for for any thoughts and TRJFord8 gave him a valid answer to his question. Tom
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| David J | -- 12-22-2014 @ 9:04 AM |
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Testy ? The intent was-is to point out that checking if the " vapor lock " issue is fuel or ignition is REAL simple and takes about 5 seconds to verify strength of spark at all 8 cyls . That is if you are using UD16 plugs . BTW they cost no more than regular plugs [ well last time I bought a few boxes anyway ] and really work well for checking spark at all 8 cylinders . Now that is useful info and gets you on the right track in seconds . Non oxy gas cures all else for me anyway . David J
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| JM | -- 12-22-2014 @ 9:59 AM |
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On our 2013 cross country tour to the GNM in Lake Tahoe, the majority of our cars experienced Vapor lock quite frequently on the 90°+ days, at the higher elevations, using the 10% alcohol enriched gasoline. We had about 20 Flathead powered cars from '32 to '53 on this tour. I knew the VL problem with my '35 fordor was not caused by ignition issues. I could see the alcohol in the gas boiling/bubbling in the glass bowl of the fuel pump. This caused a pressure buildup in the line that the fuel pump could no overcome. I carried ice water in the cooler strapped to my luggage rack, and whenever VL occured I would place an ice water soaked towel on the fuel pump for a few minutes. After this, the engine would start as soon as fresh gas was pumped into the carburetor. This worked every time. Those who had backup inline electric fuel pumps would just flip them on for a few seconds, and then be on their way. John
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| 6lucky13 | -- 12-22-2014 @ 1:53 PM |
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There is an advertisement in the V8 Times for a fuel hose with a built-in check valve. This would seem to prevent draining of gas from the carburetor. This may be an easy fix compared to installing an electric fuel pump to prevent carburetor drain. Has anyone tried this approach? Would appreciate thoughts. Jon
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| JM | -- 12-22-2014 @ 7:00 PM |
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That hose with a check valve will not prevent vapor lock This message was edited by JM on 12-22-14 @ 7:04 PM
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| 6lucky13 | -- 12-25-2014 @ 8:51 AM |
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Sorry...posted to the wrong thread.
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| MICHV8 | -- 12-26-2014 @ 7:33 AM |
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Having never had an electric fuel pump, would someone recommend a good one? And why install at the tank vs near the fuel pump? thanks
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| TomO | -- 12-26-2014 @ 8:55 AM |
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Traditional vapor lock occurred in the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor or in the sediment bowl for the fuel pump. The fuel would vaporize in the line or the bowl starving the engine for fuel. Early Ford V-8s are more likely to experience this as the fuel pump sits on top of the engine. If the fuel pump keeps enough pressure on the output side, it raises the boiling point of the fuel. The input to the fuel pump should get enough cool gas from the tank to prevent it from boiling. To minimize chances of vapor lock, make sure that there are no vacuum leaks to the input side of the fuel pump, make sure that the push rod is not worn and delivers a full 1/4" stroke measured at the operating arm of the fuel pump, make sure that the valves in the fuel pump are working properly and that the fuel pump delivers at least 2 1/2 lbs of pressure. If you have duals, make sure that the exhaust system is at least 2" away from the fuel line at the closest point. You may still have to wrap the exhaust pipe to keep the heat from the fuel line. These steps will help in most situations, but cannot ensure that you will not have the problem in higher elevations, especially if you fill up in the lower elevations. John's solution of the ice on the fuel pump is the best for occasional vapor lock. Electric fuel pumps are placed near the tank as they are better at pushing fuel than sucking fuel. If not installed correctly, they can add to fuel delivery problems. Tom
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| Old Henry | -- 12-27-2014 @ 7:30 AM |
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Many use and recommend Airtex E8902 for 6 volt and Airtex E8016S for 12 volt. I use the 6 volt one back by the gas tank. Attached is a photo of my installation.
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| GJRoberts | -- 06-08-2015 @ 6:49 AM |
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Can the Airtek be used in line with the mechanical pump? Is it wired as a momentary on system until the engine starts, or is a full time pump bypassing the mechanical system?
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| Old Henry | -- 06-08-2015 @ 2:27 PM |
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AirTex can be used in line with mechanical pump which will pull through it. I use my electric pump enough that I have it on a toggle switch and running through a pressure regulator when the vapor lock just won't go away.
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