Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / Ammeter discharge w/halogen lights

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: Ammeter discharge w/halogen lights -- page: 1 2 3

TomO

09-30-2015 @ 7:03 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009

Tracker, I am glad that you are satisfied with the electrical system on your car. It does make driving more enjoyable when you do not have to worry.

The whiter color of the halogen lights is probably better for old guys, it makes object stand out a little better.

A little electrical light bulb grease on the bulbs base and connectors will make them last longer.

Tom

Tracker

09-30-2015 @ 6:18 AM

reply profile send p.m.

New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009

Thanks Tom...being a wannbe mechanic I rely heavily on your advice and the advice of others who responded to learn the art of repairing a 1951 vintage auto.

Using the article you posted and the example of Len I went through the entire sequence of steel wool polishing every thing I could reach including the fuse panel. I did a voltage drop and it immediately led me to the dimmer switch which was visibly corroded. I changed it out and even the halogens got brighter. I got the inline relay but I have not installed it and probably won't.

I changed out corroded bulbs in the dash, courtesy lights, dome lights, tail lights m, etc and every thing is brighter. I live on the Gulf Coast where corrosion of nearly anything is made worse by the high humidity we get in the summer mos....a closed garage where I keep the car has only a fan & doesn't do much .

The key in understanding whats going on was your comment about pumping the light flasher 20x...that actually worked and led me to the voltage drop which identified what appears to have been 90 % of the problem. I am going to use the halogens and took a long drive last night & could actually see where I was going. The main lesson I take away from all this is to use the car more & not let it sit so long unused .

Again, I cannot thank you and all the others enough for your inputs. I am more that satisfied with the end result of bright lights, no ammeter discharge and overall good feeling about the car.

Tracker

TomO

09-29-2015 @ 8:10 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009

Tracker,
You are welcome to any advice that I have to give and I appreciate the way that you use the advice that is given on the Forum.

I agree that you needed the ground strap from the engine. That should have been there all along.

The relay circuit will reduce the problems with reduced voltage to the headlights, but it may not save your headlight switch and dimmer switch. They may just decide to fail in another way.

The switches are made to take the current of the 50/40Watt headlight bulbs and the lack of use is the source of corrosion.

Each time you use the switch, the contacts wipe against each other and clean the contacts. The lower current draw of the relay will be more susceptible to failure due to corrosion of the contacts. The higher and normal current draw of the headlights will burn through slight corrosion.

What I am trying to get across is that there is no substitute for good maintenance and frequent use of the car and all of its functions and every time that you make a change from stock, you take a chance on adding problems or changing the effect of a problem.

Tom

ford38v8

09-27-2015 @ 9:01 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2739
Joined: Oct 2009

Tracker, the good advice I spoke about was regarding the use of relays. I haven't heard about a breakthrough in the development of wire harnesses. Perhaps the Ron Francis product also incorporates relays, but relays are hardly "new technology".

Alan

len47merc

09-27-2015 @ 5:10 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013

Tracker - you're welcome. When you reach your final resolve with your headlights post us an update if you will on what you learned during the process and the end results achieved. It will be good for us all to hear and learn from.

Very glad to hear your headlight brightness and associated discharging concerns are resolved!

Steve

Tracker

09-26-2015 @ 11:59 PM

reply profile send p.m.

New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009

Allan..thanks for your thoughts on this...not quite sure I follow 100 % ...all of the fixes I have pursued came from forum members. On my own, I admit I did not have a clue...all I knew for certain. the halogens will allow me the right amount of light transmission to begin taking the car out at night on occasion but I
do believe the advanced technology of the harness I mentioned from Ron Francis will help me protect the dimmer and light switch. Since I have done every thing suggested by Tom, Car Crazy & len...I am at the crossover point of making the halogens work. No one would ever know unless I told them so the car for all intents maintains its original look. Thanks again to everyone....I learned a ton on this one.

Tracker

Tracker

09-26-2015 @ 11:48 PM

reply profile send p.m.

New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009

Len ..to the contrary, I rarely drive this car at night unless forced to for some reason. I did not pursue the incandescent fix as far as you did but far enough to see that I was not making much appreciable headway.

Tonight, I went on the road for a short stretch with the Halogens and for once felt comfortable. Thats what started this whole thread...previously I simply could not see well enough to drive safely with the dim lights. May not be the right fix but I'm going to pursue the in line relay idea & see how it goes. I'll report back later when the relay is installed.

Thanks again for all your input...I appreciate it.

Tracker

len47merc

09-26-2015 @ 5:50 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013

Well said Alan. Ditto.

Steve

ford38v8

09-26-2015 @ 5:16 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2739
Joined: Oct 2009

Tracker, I can't help making one more comment... Salesmanship always seems to trump solid advice. It is human nature to readily accept the pitchman's fix-all product, while being skeptical of advice given without a profit motive.

Alan

len47merc

09-26-2015 @ 11:47 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013

Tracker - my solutions ended up being more fundamental than yours. All of the following 'connections' (in addition to wiring terminations/plugs) were addressed for the headlights and taillights and each had an impact on brightness. Those producing the greatest impact on the headlight and taillight brightness were items 1/2 and 3/4, respectively, plus 10 below, although all had degrees of impact on the lights and other areas:

1) Headlight-to-bucket
2) Bucket-to-fender
3) Taillight-to-housing
4) Housing-to-quarter panel
5) Fender-to-frame
6) Fender-to-body
7) Quarter panel-to-frame
8) Quarter panel-to-body
9) Body-to-frame (multiple locations)
10) Battery-to-body/firewall
11) Body/firewall-to-engine
12) Battery-to-solenoid
13) Solenoid-to-starter
14) Starter-to-block/trans housing

Btw, I installed original NOS woven straps from the pos battery terminal to the firewall and from the firewall to the 2nd passenger side manifold bolt (counting from the rear, placing it where the original was found). Also, my dimmer and light switches were NOT players on headlight brightness.

Guess I've become too much of a purist here but hate to see the halogens on anything other than customs/modifieds and perhaps push too hard to address all possible probs in support of the original incandescents, particularly given how the input from these guys above got them so bright.

Tom's electrical/grounding diagnosis' & processes are always on the mark, and Alan's and carcrazy's points are always insightful as well. Sounds like you are driving quite a bit at night and cannot get the incandescents where you want them, though I am more than satisfied with mine. Be sure to give carcrazy's very good suggestion of a relay serious consideration if you ultimately decide to stay with the halogens and Good Luck with your project!

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 9-26-15 @ 12:29 PM

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2 3

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions