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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1934 Engine Rebuild Question

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1934 Engine Rebuild Question

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JerryG
04-12-2010 @ 7:23 PM
Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mar 2010
          
Hi Guys! I just acquired a running 1934 V8, to replace the frozen 59AB now in my 1934 Tudor. I'm going to install it for now, so I can get the car on the road after going thru all systems. But I want this to be a daily driver, to take an old guy to the corner store, etc. What are the best sources of engine rebuild parts--rings, bearings, bushings, etc? Does someone make modern innards for the '34 water pumps for instance? Any info will be appreciated. I want to start collecting parts this year. Thanks for all of your good advice, Jerry G.

lightflyer1
04-12-2010 @ 8:47 PM
New Member
Posts: 105
Joined: Oct 2009
          
My 35's (pumps) were rebuilt by Skip's in Florida. The older engines were babbit (sp?) orignally and pose some issues over insert bearings.

37RAGTOPMAN
04-13-2010 @ 6:02 AM
Senior
Posts: 1940
Joined: Oct 2009
          
HI JERRYG
you should have BABBIT bearing on the main bearing and inserts on the rods,
before you install the engine you could plastic gauge the mains,and inspect them,for wear or cracks.
you might be able to tighten them up by removing the brass shims.,and this way you will get longer service out of them,
this is a pretty simple job out of the chassis,and on a work bench,
SAVING you time by installing and removing 2 times.
send the pumps to SKIP for rebuild,
well worth the money and piece of mind,
my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN
also the V8 TIMES is a good place to 34 LOOK for parts as well as this web side ,place a ad in the PARTS WANTED SECTION,
Are you a EARLY FORD V8 MEMEBER YET,???
well worth the $35.00 membership, great magazine,

supereal
04-13-2010 @ 10:24 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If you have an early engine, before '37, chances are you have babbit bearings in both rods and mains. If you have "block off" plates where the water pumps attach to the block, instead of the heads, it is a later "service" replacement. There are lots of reliable parts sources such as C&G and others. If you are not an experienced engine builder with the necessary tools and gauges, the job is best left to a pro.

JerryG
04-14-2010 @ 10:16 AM
Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mar 2010
          
Thank you lightflyer1, 37RagTopMan, and Supereal....
I'm not going to attempt to completely rebuild the engine myself. I can get the bolt-ons refurbished, replace gaskets, adjust stuff, etc...but would leave the short-block to a pro. After I sent the e-mail, I looked at Skip's ad more closely and saw that he also does the pumps for the pre-1937's as well. Thanks to all of you again. Jerry G

dso72
04-14-2010 @ 1:10 PM
Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Would you recommend rebuilding the water pumps with the original impeller design or with Skips high flow impellers? Thanks for the help.

TomO
04-15-2010 @ 6:54 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I would have the water pumps rebuilt with the newer design impeller. You should also use the pressure relief valve in your over flow pipe to keep the coolant in the engine.

Tom

lightflyer1
04-15-2010 @ 12:21 PM
New Member
Posts: 105
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I think the earlier pumps only come with the plain impellers. Mine did. The later models have the newer turbine type. Check with Skip's though!

David

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