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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1932 Ford Discussion / 1932 B project help

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CharlieStephens
03-01-2011 @ 9:51 AM
Senior
Posts: 815
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Yes the tires can be mounted by hand. If you can't do it find a Model A guy to help or go to an older tire shop that works on big trucks. Remember when you inflate the tube you should allow it to deflate once to get the wrinkles out and be sure you don't pinch the tube between the tire and the rim or cut it with the tire iron. Check the Model A archives on fordbarn.com about tire mounting. A lot of people use sheets of plastic to avoid scratching the paint on the wheels. The tire mounting tools were part of the tool kit (one anyway but I like to use two). Larger and easier to use tools are available from Craftsman, Snap-on etc. DO NOT take it to a modern shop with young kids working or they will probably put it on a tire changing machine and bend the wheel. If they promise to do it by hand stick around and watch them. I am surprised more suppliers don't have the tires you are looking for. It's just me but I would go with one of the original brands like Firestone. I prefer black walls but if you go white walls remember they should be white on both sides.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 3-1-11 @ 9:59 AM

jim5618
03-01-2011 @ 12:31 PM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Charlie, my dad sold farm equipment and drove truck for years so we have the knowledge on how to do it by hand, just never done it on old fords and wanted to make sure it wasn't next to impossible by hand.

I will check some other sources on the tires. I guess I am a victim of good marketing and went straight to coker to check prices. I will definately go with blackwalls.

trjford8
03-01-2011 @ 7:54 PM
Senior
Posts: 3554
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim, check out this site; www.lucasclassictires.com. or check out Universal Tire Company at; www.universaltire.com . The phone number is 1-877-454-3954. They are in Hershey, Pa. They can also be found on e-bay as Universal Tire in the vintage car parts section.

This message was edited by trjford8 on 3-1-11 @ 8:40 PM

jim5618
03-02-2011 @ 6:14 AM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Any particular reason the dunlops are so much more than the others? I'll propbably go with universal as I can pick them up the next time I drive to Massachusetts.

Carlock
03-02-2011 @ 9:16 AM
Member
Posts: 16
Joined: Dec 2009
          
I recently replaced the 18" tires on my 32 and used the Firestones from universal. Went on well and are fairly well balanced without adding weights. The molds for the 18" firestones have recently been reworked or remade and the sidewall lettering is very nice now compared to the older Firestones. You will like these.

37RAGTOPMAN
03-02-2011 @ 6:54 PM
Senior
Posts: 1452
Joined: Oct 2009
          
See what is the bottom line in the buying price,!!!
what I see is a real nice no rust car.
if it was mine I would get it running,[ very simple engine to get running,] I have done many , and see how it shifts and stops, check it for wear here and there, and repair as needed, maybe kingpins, tie rod,brakes and tires and waterhoses,safty things, plus major tune up, and clean the fuel system, and get ready for the road,
clean it up real well and see how it looks and maybe just drive it the way you found it and have fun with it, doing maintence
Lebaron BONNEY will sell you a interior,
you can call them for a price it you want to get real involved with the interior, or just replace the door panels and kick panels for starters, you can do it piece meal, pay as you go,
I would NOT TEAR IT APART, as I see it,
it all depends how old you are,over 60 FORGETABOUTIT,,,
it is a very big and costly job,and would be hard to do, if you have a family.
This is also BIGGY.YOU Need a place to work on it,TEAR ALL APART, WERE TO PUT ALL THE PARTS,???
If you do buy a good digital camera,that will take clear close up pictures,and take a lot of pictures,
I have seen many unfinished projects, that started with great intentions, but never got put back together,
Looking at the pictures, this should be worth maybe $5-$8000 as is,you should be able to buy a OLD RESTORATION for maybe $20,000 GIVE OT TAKE a few dollars,
I think the interior would be the most expensive item I see,call LEBARON BONNY for price quote before you buY the car,TO GET A IDEA,on what faces you,
hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!!

3w2
03-03-2011 @ 8:17 AM
Senior
Posts: 506
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim,

While the Firestone 18" tires are nice, the available tread design is one that Firestone adopted in 1935, which may or may not make a difference to you. (Please see page 4-5 of your book.)

For the same price, you could buy B.F. Goodrich tires which have the only 100% correct tread and sidewall markings as the Goodrich tires used by Ford in 1932. These tires are made by Coker.

While it may not be widely known, Universal is owned by Coker Tire and while they do not normally carry 18" Goodrich tires, I suspect that they would order them from their parent company, Coker, for you so that you could pick them up in Pennsylvania at no extra cost.

Dave

jim5618
03-03-2011 @ 10:45 AM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
37RAGTOPMAN, Sorry I realized I don't have a lot of detail on my status. I did buy the car already and moved it to my Dad's garage. For the record, I have not yet hit 50 so I do plan on a lot of years with it. Due to the fact that I am not located where the car is, my project tends to be a month of research and buying, then a weekend of a lot of work on the car. Yes getting the mechanicals going is a priority. Next trip we should have it running and will clean out the gas tank, oilpan and check the radiator. While the tires on it hold air, I would not be surprised if any of them were original equipment, they are real old and real bald. After we get it running and stopping well, I will do the interior. I have a line on a used lebaron interior (was taken out ot do a hotrod). While I am not trying to build a show car, I am trying to stay close to original where I can. For example I am buying original tailight, starter switch etc, not reproduction.. Floor boards are ordered and are reproduction...at some point (next fall?) I will probably have it rewired, as a lot of the wiring looks home meade.

jim5618
04-05-2011 @ 12:27 PM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Update. Went up this weekend and got a lot done. First issue was getting the switch I got put on the starter, new battery, hit the switch....nothing. tried another switch, nothing. Turns out my Dad forgot to release the springs on the brushes. We fixed that and the car fired right over with the plugs out....plugs back in added lawn mower Gas tank hooked directly to the carb (still need to rebuild fuel pump), got the fire extiquisher just in case, and it started right up! Only ran it for 10 seconds but it sounded good.

We pulled the gas tank, still had a couple of gallons in it (looked dark as diesal). No real sludge, but some surface rust. We are contemplating the rock tumbling routine, but I think we will just go with rust treatment and sealer. The pickup unit wasn't even plugged up. Didn't even need penetrating oil on the bolts, it all came right off. Car hasn't seen moisture in 40 years...

Pulled the oil pan (had to post here to find out I needed to turn the steering wheel to the left to get the pan to go past the tie rod). Dumped the oil out and dropped the pan in the grass. The inner piece popped right out. Oil in the bottom was like mollases but no chunks of anything in it. We did find some gasket looking material in tihe screen for the oil pump, not a lot though.

What a pain in the AS_ to get the pan back on. Finally realized I needed to screw a bolt in where the setscrew was to hold the oilpump up. Got it all back together.

Was VERY happy to discover the bottom plate for where the pedals meet the floorboards was still attached. My drivers side door is pretty scr*w*d up. May have been repaired, but it is way out of alignment and the seam looks like it is coming apart by the bottom hinge.

My locking hub cap on the spare has no key and I can't get at it even from the back. The rear bumper was broken off and welded back on. It looks straight but is why it was painted and not the polished nickle. Sorry for the long post but excited to finally have progress.

By The Way.... what are these holes in the center of my floor for? Looks like one is slightly distorted.


CharlieStephens
04-05-2011 @ 7:22 PM
Senior
Posts: 815
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim,

On the locking cap. Any chance that the cap or wheel are in such poor condition that you could remove it with a high speed grinder without feeling guilty? I hate to add that good wheels are not that expensive. If not, look for a lock smith for use when you can drive the car to him. By the way, the bumpers should be chrome not nickel.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 4-5-11 @ 7:24 PM

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