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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1932 Ford Discussion / 1932 B project help

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jim5618
11-23-2010 @ 10:18 AM
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Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Alan,

Not to worry. I finally get to win the argument over closing the carport into a family room or into a garage. While I certainly would not be able to take the body off in there, it will be plenty large enough to work on the car. This isn't a tacked on car port, this is a 1940's style, concrete pad, attic above it, type that for whatever reason, never got closed in.

jim5618
12-19-2010 @ 8:06 PM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Here are a few pics of the car. I know the heater is not stock, but have not identified what it is. I plan on removing it. Other than the water hoses and black paint, anything else look particularly wrong on the car?

http://jrodda.smugmug.com/Cars/henrysB/14423836_RvcVo#1069694570_uMWo7

trjford8
12-19-2010 @ 8:49 PM
Senior
Posts: 3554
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Here's just a quick comment on what I spotted that is not correct; 1) there is an accessory release handle on the emergency brake lever, 2) the jack and the two lug wrenches are not correct, 3) there is an accessory vacuum gauge mounted on the driver's side of the dash board, 4)the pedal pads are not correct, 5) and the spare locking hub cap is 33-34 Ford and not 32.
All considered that is one nice 32 tudor and the things I spotted are minor. You are very lucky to be able to restore a car that has so many original parts.

CharlieStephens
12-19-2010 @ 9:21 PM
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Posts: 815
Joined: Oct 2009
          
You have an interesting ammeter. It is either extremely rare, from another car, or a replacement. Yours goes to 30 amps. Note the bezel has a different patina. The original ones that I have seen only go to 20 amps. I couldn't find any reference to the 30 amp gauge in "The 1932 Ford Book".

What does the knob in the lower center control? It should just be a plug in the early "B's" and a dash light switch beginning in late June (ref "The 1932 Ford Book"). If you need knobs there are excellent reproductions available but I think most of yours look good with the patina.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 12-20-10 @ 10:42 AM

jim5618
12-20-2010 @ 8:11 PM
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Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Charlie...my guess is the amp meter is incorrect for the year. I think I am going to be finding pieces on the car that were not correct, either because my uncle didn't know, or because in the 60's parts were hard to come by. For now I am going to focus on functional. Replace missing items and items needed to make the car operational. At that point I can worry more on correct knobs and stuff. I still want to ID items that are wrong though.

I will look at that knob tomarrow to see what it does.

3w2
12-20-2010 @ 8:44 PM
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Posts: 506
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Charlie,

The 30 amp ammeter is a late '33-'34 truck item. It will likely have a loop on the back and not the two studs characteristic of the '32 20 amp ammeter. The black bezel suggests that it was a war-time service part (no chrome). These show up on eBay from time to time in NOS form.

Given that this car has the pull type starter control, it would not have had a dash light switch originally, so what is presently in the center hole in the instrument panel is likely not original (a heater blower switch, perhaps?).

Dave Rehor

jim5618
12-22-2010 @ 7:49 PM
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Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
I think you might be right on the switch in the dash. Right now the wires are not hooked up to anything.

jim5618
02-18-2011 @ 6:16 AM
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Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
I haven't posted in a while. Slow progress with the car not at home. I added more pictures, please, please feel free to point out anything on the car. One issue I am concerned with is the driver's side door. It has a crack in it that looks like a bondo crack. Not sure I can fix it without repainting the car.

I lucked out and am looking at a used (reproduction) interior. That way I can fix the car up a bit without putting a brand new interior in a driver body.

http://jrodda.smugmug.com/Cars/henrysB/14423836_RvcVo#1069694570_uMWo7

3w2
02-18-2011 @ 7:12 PM
Senior
Posts: 506
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim,

You're probably correct about the crack in the paint surface by the door hinge. Likely the door was over-opened at some point (not uncommon) and the sheet metal around the hinge was deformed as a result. Rather than remove the dent in the sheet metal, someone filled the depression with bondo, which has deteriorated with time, likely because it was too thick.

Your car was originally equipped with curved steel door check straps on the front edge of the doors that fitted through slots in cowl hinge pillar. These had a rubber bumper on their ends to limit how far the doors could be opened. They could be missing now.

Dave



jim5618
03-01-2011 @ 8:37 AM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
I was looking at my "to Buy" list and got around to looking at tires. It looks like Coker only sells one tire for this car? 525/550-18 EXCELSIOR BLACKWALL TIRE at $148 plus the tube. This sound right? Can these be mounted by hand?


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