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Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1932 Ford Discussion / 1932 B project help

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ford38v8
10-29-2010 @ 4:34 PM
Senior
Posts: 2318
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim, it looks like you have a really straight car there, most likely eligible for the Rouge award I told you of.

The first issue to deal with is DMV Registration. Your Title will have a number B5xxxxxx, which should match the number found on top of the left frame under the hood. This number is hand stamped, and will have a * star) prefix and suffix. This is the only identification your car will have, and should appear on the title. If your title has previously had an "assigned" number, insist that it be corrected to the correct one.To get started with your project, change the engine, transmission, and differential oils. Squirt a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. New battery, new plugs and fresh ignition. Rebuilt carburetor and fuel pump, cleaned & sealed gas tank. Fresh gasoline only. Use 87 octane gas, never E85. Spin the engine with plugs out to circulate the oil, then see if it will start for you with plugs and ignition on. As you don't know why your Uncle parked it, take care to listen for anything unusual. You will have leaky water pumps. They may settle in, but don't count on it. you will also want to have the radiator checked out at an old fashioned radiator shop capable of full radiator service. New hoses, of course, and check the generator belt.

Do not try to salvage the old tires. Get new tires and tubes from Coker. Check the brakes. If it has been converted to juice brakes, you'll have to rebuild the cylinders and check out the master cylinder. If it is original mechanical brakes, just check for shoe wear and proper adjustment. Don't worry about surface rust on the drums, that will polish off the first time you apply the brakes.

Anything that requires attention should always be retained rather than discarded, as most times, a rebuild is available and sometimes is better than new. Questions on authenticity or "best way to go" should come from us here on this Forum, never from a dealer or supplier. For a listing of good sources, go to the following link, which is my club here in the San Francisco Bay Area:

http://www.goldengatev8.org/resources.htm


Alan

jim5618
10-29-2010 @ 6:07 PM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
He "parked" it as he got older. He just stopped driving it a couple of years before he went into the nursing home. After he passed, my cousin moved it to a neighbors barn when they sold my uncles house. My cousin originally intended to keep it but is now selling it rather than ship it west. I am not sure I get the title issue? It was titled in Massachusetts. Alsthough I have not confirmed it, I believe it is all original motor transmission etc. I know my uncle did not do a major restore nor would he have had funds to do so.

ford38v8
10-29-2010 @ 6:57 PM
Senior
Posts: 2318
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim, As I don't know what your question is about the title issue, I'll take a guess. Sometimes a title gets transferred without confirming the original ID number of the car. When this happens, a DMV may issue a new number of their choosing just to get it titled. You will want the correct number on your new title for obvious reasons.

By the way, You will want to belong to the EFV8CA, for sure, and to join a Regional Group near your home. Also, the brand new publication from the Club, "The 1932 Ford Book" in two volumes, represents the life work of its Author, David Rehor. David is a long time V8 member, who has already posted his comment on your thread. If I've told you anything that Dave disagrees with, go with what he says instead.

David's book is the bible on '32 Fords, and available here:

https://www.earlyfordv8.org/store-product-item.cfm?id=15&pid=2

Alan

jim5618
10-30-2010 @ 8:38 AM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Alan. That answered my question. It will be a while before i get myriad. hands on the title. The executor needs to apply for a duplicate then transfer it to me. I will definately get the book. In the mea. Time where.would i look for the codes to.determine exact model interior color and if it has original motor?


CharlieStephens
10-30-2010 @ 11:33 AM
Senior
Posts: 760
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim,

First remember the caution about removing the original interior (or changing anything else). If it is indeed original and not from an earlier restoration you may want to preserve it and enter your car in the Rouge class. They are only original once but can be restored many times. There are no codes that will tell you the original paint or upholstery. You should call LeBaron Bonney, (800) 221-5408, and request upholstery information and samples for your specific car. Tell them year, model and standard or deluxe. When you get this they will probably match what is in the book. If they don’t match, ask them and post questions. There may be subtle differences that should be addresses (e.g., a super early or super late car). There are other upholstery suppliers out there that you might want to compare but I think they are generally considered the best (comments anyone?). The original motor should look like a Model A motor but have a fuel pump on the passenger side towards the front of the engine. You might find it interesting to look at Vince Falters excellent site http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/index.htm When you get the car post pictures of all of the accessories (carburetor, air filter, generator, fan, splash pans etc) and people will comment on their correctness. You will not be able to determine if the motor is the one that came with the car originally, only that it is correct for the car. There were no serial numbers on the original motor. The serial number was stamped into a pad on the top of the flywheel housing and into the top of the driver’s side frame rail near the steering box (it is visible without removing anything). As previously stated the serial number will probably take the format *B5XXXXXX* but may take the format *AB5XXXXXX* if it is an early car. If the two numbers don’t match the DMV will probably go with the one on the frame or decide to attach a plate to the door jam. It is nice to use the original number. In my opinion (comments anyone?) if the numbers don’t match and the DMV wants to inspect it point to the one on the frame (which should be on the paperwork) and ignore the one on the flywheel housing unless they find it.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 10-30-10 @ 12:06 PM

jim5618
10-30-2010 @ 11:54 AM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Charlie, Not sure you saw the pictures I posted. The interior is totally shot. There really isn't an option of not fixing the interior.

CharlieStephens
10-30-2010 @ 12:18 PM
Senior
Posts: 760
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim,

I missed the shots when you posted them originally. My computer/service provider doesn't like pictures from this site for some reason. I tried again and they downloaded very very slowley. I see what you mean about the interior.

Charlie Stephens

3w2
10-31-2010 @ 10:00 PM
Member
Posts: 449
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim,

You're right, the photos aren't the greatest, but they still convey a fair amount of information. For example, there is very little wear on the circumference of the steering wheel, which is indicative of a fairly low mileage car. If the rest of the interior is like the door trim panels, it is toast, but at least for sure you know that this car left the factory as a black one. From what I can see of the channel in which the glass rests, it appears to be very good and relatively rust free, which is another positive sign. The lines of the beads of fenders and running board on the right side are as they should be and if that's true for the sections of the fenders not in the photo and on the left side, that is extremely fortunate.

While the picture is incomplete, from what I saw in those photos I believe you've got yourself an excellent '32 standard Tudor. Hopefully you'll share some more photos of it with us after you've brought it home and cleaned it up.

When you receive your "The 1932 Book, A Production Chronicle and Restoration Guide", you'll see some photos of the interior of a mint original standard Tudor like yours. The material in that car is Thorne Brown mohair, which seems to have been used in the vast majority of '32 standard closed cars, although there were other choices as well (this is well covered in "the book"). I know from personal experience that LeBaron Bonney can supply you with an outstanding match for this material in the correct form for your standard Tudor and I can send you a sample of their material that I have used to steer you straight as they offer several different shades of brown mohair. I believe that their upholstery kits for this model are accurate as well.

Dave

P.S. Charlie, Thanks for the compliment!

jim5618
11-01-2010 @ 12:01 PM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Thanks for the advice. It is a bit hard to deal with long distance right now. The car is in New England and I am in DC. I know the interior was complete but a little ratty when it was parked so I know all the springs and door hardware is there. I am hoping to find out tonight if we have a deal, so hopefully by next week I can get mor pictures and info. Silly question for you while I am waiting for th ebook ot arrive. I noticed on another B tudor the wheels were black, while mine are a light color. does that mean anything?

3w2
11-01-2010 @ 8:52 PM
Member
Posts: 449
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim,

It's not a silly question at all. Black wheels were standard equipment on '32 standard models such as your Tudor and colored wheels were optional at extra cost on these models (they were standard equipment on the deluxe models). So, either black wheels or Tacoma cream, Apple green, or Aurora red wheels would be correct for your car.

Dave

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