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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1936 Ford Gas Tank removal

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1936 Ford Gas Tank removal -- page: 1 2     1936TWC 08-22-2011 @ 12:52 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 I am attempting to remove my gas tank. However, I cannot remove the threaded sleeve from the filler neck. I have applied plenty of WD 40 and put a pipe wrench (with pipe) to the sleeve and will not budge. I noticed the tank pipe actually flexing. I know there are safety issues involved here. Any insights? flatheadfan 08-22-2011 @ 1:27 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 These things can be real nightmares to remove. Your best bet is to use a super penetrate such as Kroil for several days and a spanner wrench and hope for the best. In extreme circumstances I have seen the pipe cut off leaving only a short pipe on the tank end. When the tank was reinstalled a fuel resistant rubber hose was used to connect the tank to the remaining pipe. If you went this route you wouldn't be "plowing new water," Ford did something like this in mid-'37. Externally, it will look and appear the same as a solid neck. Good luck. Tom watwasithinking 08-23-2011 @ 6:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 33 Joined: Dec 2009 Park Tools, the company that makes tools for the bicycle repair shops, makes an 11" long spanner that I have found to be the best made persuader for removing those stubborn screw in fuel necks. This tool is well built, made in the U.S.A., chrome plated, and sells for about $15. Listed below is a link to eBAY that lists them as low as $12. The part number is HCW-5 and is called a Park Tool HCW-5 Bottom Bracket Wrench. (copy and paste in your browswer window) http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=Park+HCW5&_sacat=See-All-Categories Pull harder, supereal 08-23-2011 @ 10:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If you twist the tank inlet hole by bearing down on the pipe, chances are you will be looking for a new tank. As suggested, cutting the pipe and rejoining it with a short hose and a couple of clamps is the way we do it. Just don't use any tool to cut the pipe that may cause sparks, such as a Sawzall. Careful use of a plain hacksaw is better, and you can stuff rags down the pipe to help contain any fumes and particles. watwasithinking 08-23-2011 @ 8:05 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 33 Joined: Dec 2009 It is my understanding that your mission is to remove your tank and not just replace your fuel neck. As a purist at heart,I hate to see a reccomendation to cut the fuel neck off of your gas tank and spice it back together with radiator hose and clamps...unless originality is of no concern to you. If in fact you do consider cutting it off so you can remove the tank you'll have to make your cut through the threaded sleeve in the fuel neck so that only about 2 inches max is protruding from the tank. It is also in this 2 inch area that there may not be enough clearance to slide your tank to the right and lower it down between the frame rails. The neck has to pass through the inner fender (body) sheetmetal first. If the neck is too long it will not clear the body sheetmetal fuel neck hole. When the neck clears this hole the tank has to be centered over the frame rails so you can let the right side down first slowly while moving the tank to the right and then letting the left side down clearing the left frame rail.. (As a reminder, don't forget to remove the tail pipe hanger and move the tail pipe out of your way first). Before you give up the challenge and start surgery on your tank's fuel neck, I'd like to suggest a way to remove that neck. First of all be sure and work in a well ventilated area, preferably outdoors. Disconnect your battery negative post cable(positive ground wiring)from your battery, drain the gas from the tank, disconnect the fuel line from the tank and plug the tank and fuel line. Flush the tank with water several times and then fill the tank to the top but below the neck area. You should now be able to safely apply some heat to the threaded sleeve area. Tapping lightly with a hammer will help loosen the fitting. Be really careful where your pointing that heat. P.S. Using a pipe wrench on the fuel neck threaded sleeve can flatten the threads where the pipe jaws make contact and will cause binding. That is why a spanner wrench is used. The spanner places no pressure on the threads and eliminates binding. That sleeve is thin and the threads are fine threads. 1936TWC 09-14-2011 @ 11:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks to all for the suggestions. Currently I am soaking the pipe with Kroil and hope for the best. I do not want cut apart anything, if possible. I will update on progress. Thanks again, Marty flatfoot 09-15-2011 @ 6:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 253 Joined: Mar 2011 I just took mine out and put it back with the 3 lead washer at the tank. I had to purchase a spanner wrench and it finally came easier. It was also easier to put back in. I paid 56 dollars for the spanner. Good luck. Kens 36 09-16-2011 @ 11:42 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 339 Joined: Oct 2009 I purchased a spanner wrench from Sears several years ago for $15. Just checked now and the price is down to $12.82. It is Armstrong model 34-219. Works perfectly on the gas tank sleeve, but you may want to put an extender on it to get the connection tight. Ken 35fordman 09-16-2011 @ 11:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Oct 2009 I have been trying to get my 35 tank out for a week. Soaked for days with PB blaster, bought the spanner only to have it rip out the sleeve. As a last resort before going to the cutting the sleeve method, I put my cheater bar down the filler neck and was able to rotate the filler in the sleeve so it pointed down, the tank came out without a hitch. Then I got the pipe wrench up next to the threads and out came the sleeve. This may not work for everyone, but it's something else to try when nothing else seems to be working. 1936TWC 10-15-2011 @ 11:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 After multiple applications of KROIL, i cannot remove the fillier tube from my gas tank. I am very aware of safety hazards of applying heat to the fitting, so I am considering cuttimg the filler tube. Any insights on this would be appreciated. Thanks. When you rotated the filler tube down, was the fender off?

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