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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Throttle and Choke Pull Tension

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Throttle and Choke Pull Tension -- page: 1 2     51woodie 05-17-2020 @ 10:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 509 Joined: Jan 2017 The throttle and choke pulls on my '46 won't stay in position when I pull them out. The throttle more so that the choke. If I pull the throttle out to keep a fast idle when the engine is cold, the dad burned thing slides right back in! Any ideas/suggestions? MGG 05-17-2020 @ 11:25 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 85 Joined: Jul 2014 I have made several small bent clips of varying widths that when not in use, hang from the window air vent below the window. I use whichever one (between the knob and dash) which makes the engine run at the speed I want until it warms up. I use them as I get out and inspect under the hood for any problems (leaks, etc.) as the engine runs for a few minutes to warm up. JayChicago 05-18-2020 @ 7:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 471 Joined: Jan 2016 I believe there are rubber grommets behind the dash that put some resistance on the pull rod. The rubber hardens over time, shrinks, no resistance. Joe's Antique Auto has available for $25 per pair. Should be easy to install. This message was edited by JayChicago on 5-18-20 @ 9:01 AM TomO 05-18-2020 @ 10:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Does the knob on the dash go back in or stay in the position that you set? If it goes back in, check the accelerator pump, it should not have spring tension for the first 3/16" of the down stroke. Some people put a helper spring under the pump and that could cause the throttle cable to move due to the increased spring tension. You could increase the tension on the cable by removing the cable from the dash and putting a small crimp at the part of the cable that the knob shaft fits into. If knob stays the same as you set, then check the flex joints. The rubber in them could be deteriorated enough to allow the throttle to close. The fix is to replace the joint. The rubber grommets that Jay was talking about were used on the 1940 cars that used rods and not a full cable to the flex joint. Tom 51woodie 05-18-2020 @ 1:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 509 Joined: Jan 2017 Tom If I pull the throttle out and let go, it goes back in. The throttle linkage is stock with no extra springs. I do have a set of flex joints, but not sure how to change them. Grind old ones off and crimp new ones on? TomO 05-19-2020 @ 8:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 You can do that or just do like I did, remove the old rubber ones from the cable, remove the stubs on the new ones from the rubber and insert your cable into the new rubber. Because your knobs are going back in, I would remove the cables and tighten the action by crimping them as shown in the photo. Be careful to not make them too tight Tom 51woodie 05-19-2020 @ 4:14 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 509 Joined: Jan 2017 Tom. Thank you for your replies and information. From looking at the picture you included, does the rubber portion "snap on/off from the groves in the linkage/cable ends, or is the rubber moulded on to the ends? Right now, one of the flex joints has a tywrap on one end of the rubber section, so that makes me think it must have come apart at one time on a previous owner. TomO 05-20-2020 @ 6:53 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 The rubber doesn't exactly "snap" off. It took quite a bit of effort to remove the 2 crimp on ends from the rubber. I did this in 1975 and can't speak for the current replacements, but they were not vulcanized on the stubs back then. If your replacements are vulcanized on to the stubs, then you will have to go the cut and crimp route. Tom kubes40 05-20-2020 @ 6:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3366 Joined: Oct 2009 The rubber joints, while appearing to be in poor condition, are not effecting the correct operation. The grommets in the instrument panel are. Replace those and you will be pleased with the outcome. Carpenter sells the kit, around $25 if I recall correctly. Replacing the rubber joints is a bit of a task as TomO suggests. If you decide to replace them, remove the rod (assembly) from the car and R&R on your bench. I might suggest you cut through the old rubber carefully to remove it. Before installing the replacement joints, be certain each end of the rods are clean. A quick spin with a wire wheel will do the trick. Use a little lubricant that will dry (WD40 as an example) on the rubber and push it over the respective end. It'll snap in to place. Carpenter sells those as well. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 5-20-20 @ 7:03 AM OLDTMR 05-20-2020 @ 9:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 45 Joined: Dec 2010 A wooden clothespin works good for me clamped anywhere I like it in the 40 !

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