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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1936 rear brake drum removal

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Discussion Topic: 1936 rear brake drum removal -- page: 1 2

kkeyser

04-06-2020 @ 7:55 PM

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Hi guys. I know this has been discussed many times in the past, but after searching I can't find any past discussions. I'm trying to break loose my rear drums on my '36 with juice brakes. I bought the Vintage Precision ABV-156 reproduction 7 years ago and never used it until now and now I find it doesn't fit my drum. I saw someone posted years ago about removing stuck drums but it was unclear what his method was. As best I can recall, the member said to lower the car such that the problem wheel and drum is on the ground and to then jack up the opposite side wheel and the problem drum would come loose? I think I'm missing something here? Can anyone provide more details?? Thanks.

therunwaybehind

04-07-2020 @ 5:16 AM

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I would back off the adjuster cams by turning the hex-nuts which accomplish that on the backing plate. Then I would try setting the parking brake to force the shoes to move, --only one shoe. Then step on the hydraulic brake to move both shoes. Pulling the drum involves, as you have expressed, a special tool, or maybe not so special, a claw with a slide hammer. The shoes are going to want to cock in the drum and wedge but maybe pulling then pushing a few times will let the rust and brake dust to release and off it comes!

This message was edited by therunwaybehind on 4-7-20 @ 5:18 AM

juergen

04-07-2020 @ 6:28 AM

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The method you remember requires you removing the axle nut and replacing it with a "knocker" which is like a long double nut that you strike with a sledge. Leave several threads showing on the axle. The theory is that with the wheel and drum on the pavement, it will stay firm(er) in place on the ground when you strike the knocker which will move the axle away from the drum/wheel. I've had better results with a puller that clamps on to the ridge of the drum.

CharlieStephens

04-07-2020 @ 11:05 AM

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Can you give more details about why the puller doesn't fit your drum? I looked it up on the net and it looks like a quality unit that should fit. How about some pictures?

Charlie Stephens

kkeyser

04-07-2020 @ 11:15 AM

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Hi Charlie. I can't give you a picture of the VP ABV-156 at the moment as I have a huge three-pronged puller clamped to the outside of the drum at the moment. I've had it on for two days, keeping the axle wet with penetrating oil, with increasing pressure using a 2-foot lever extension to my socket wrench already to the point of being afraid I'm going to break something. This sucker is locked on! The best way to describe my fit issue is the two "clam sh*ll" cylinders that are supposed to clamp around the center hub of the drum do not fit properly as I cannot slide the sleeve over the two once they're in place. I got them on as far as I could and then, believe it or not, wrapped them with Gorilla Tape as the sleeve would not fit. The Gorilla Tape, surprisingly, was extremely strong but not strong enough to hold the two halves together long enough for me to really crank down on it. I'm going to try calling VP and ask them about my fit issue with their tool.

ford38v8

04-07-2020 @ 12:21 PM

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Ken, From your last description of the problem, I believe I can offer some help:
Take the two halves and put them together around the hub, being careful to align the thrust plate within the two sh*lls correctly. The two halves must close to each other snugly in order for the outer lock cover to slide onto the two halves. If the thrust plate is not engaged correctly within the two halves, they will not go together.

Alan

39 Ken

04-08-2020 @ 5:24 AM

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The first thing you want to do is remove that three prong puller and never use it on your Ford again. With a severely stuck drum, all that puller will do is distort your drum making it more difficult to remove. Once it does come off with that puller, it is likely that your drum is distorted to the point of making it unusable and you'll be looking for another one.

If your drums were installed properly, the torque used to tighten the rear drum should be around 200 ft. lbs. which makes removal with the proper puller an absolute requirement.

This message was edited by 39 Ken on 4-8-20 @ 5:26 AM

37RAGTOPMAN

04-08-2020 @ 6:04 AM

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hi 36 brake drum removal
anything you use, should be used with common sense, use a GOOD Rust Buster FIRST, soaking for few days,
they did have a hub puller that fit directly to the brake drum , KRW made them for FORD,
they are a good way to go, but this may require also hitting on the end of the axle treads, so be care full
if you use the 3 prong puller, do not over force anything,
I have used these with no problems., this maybe your last resort, either the drum or axle, which is easier to replace ???
The axle knocker on the treads works also but you are hammering on the axle with the
gear on the end of it where it hits the spiders !!!

you could try removing the axle nut a few treads and drive it back and forth in your drive way till you hear a click or pop
the drum might loosen up,
my 2 cents 1937Ragtopman

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-8-20 @ 6:15 AM

juergen

04-08-2020 @ 6:43 AM

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Even with the puller on, it is sometimes necessary to whack (impact) the head of the puller to break the bond.

cliftford

04-08-2020 @ 7:37 AM

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When all else fails, sometimes careful use of heat along with a puller will make it pop loose.

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