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Discussion Topic:
'39 Merc starter button R&R
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flatcreeker |
10-21-2021 @ 10:48 AM
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Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Feb 2021
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Things related to generator/regulator continue to be all over the place. Readings at battery range from 6.3v at 1250 rpm to 8.6v (and still climbing) then returning to 6.4v at idle. Sometimes the voltage increases in a textbook manner as rpm pass the expected cut-out threshold and sometimes not until 1400 rpm. The only consistent seems to be the return to 6.4v as rpm return down to idle. No adjustments have been made to this 3rd regulator. Yesterday, during a short 4 mile test drive, the dash gauge indicated an overcharging condition. I pulled over and ck'd voltage at battery: 8.1v at 1400 rpm. I returned home keeping engine rpm as low as possible and coasting at idle much of the time. Once home, I raised hood and went through the process. 6.4v at idle, steady at 7.5v at 1400, then after about 2 minutes it started steadily climbing to 8+ v at 1400. This seems to indicate that the regulator "can" function properly. Makes me think the generator has something hinky going on. I am weary of trying to do it myself and my confidence in my generator shop is waning. Going to a big car show/swap meet on Saturday (regrettably not in the Merc) and hope to get a lead on a shop to take it to for generator rebuild and new regulator install and check-out on vehicle.
This message was edited by flatcreeker on 10-22-21 @ 7:00 AM
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flatcreeker |
10-22-2021 @ 7:17 AM
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Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Feb 2021
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Also- I am trying to identify my generator by PN. Based on pulley size (3 3/32" OD measured at forward flange and 4.0" measured at fan), which, of course could have been changed, and also photo similarity and height measurement of the mounting bracket/front end plate, it is not original to a 1939 Mercury. Maybe 21A 10000, a PN indicated by several manuals as the replacement for the 91A 10000.
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TomO |
10-22-2021 @ 8:20 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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There are 3 Regional Groups in GA, contact one of them for help with your problem. You should be able to get a reference for a good electrical shop from one of them. Do not drive the car with the generator connected, you may do more damage.
Tom
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TomO |
10-22-2021 @ 10:43 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Your problem still sounds like a bad ground. Connect your voltmeter COM lead to the generator case and the + lead of the battery post, not the cable connection, while the engine is running at about 1,000 rpm. The meter should read less than 0.1V. If that is OK, do the same to the regulator mounting base. If either of them read higher than 0.1V you have a grounding problem. Do not run the engine for a long period of time as you could damage the regulator or generator. If I remember correctly you should have a grounding cable from the battery to the firewall and another from the firewall to the engine,probably a head bolt.
Tom
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flatcreeker |
10-23-2021 @ 2:04 PM
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Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Feb 2021
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Greetings- I accomplished the checks between generator case and + batt terminal, and between regulator mounting and + batt terminal. Checks revealed no voltage present, not even continuity indicated. Generator was putting out 8.1v and climbing at time of checks. Returned to 6.4v at idle (at battery). I have a continuity tester which resembles the typical ice-pick with light-in-handle and wire lead with clip. Only this one has a digital display in handle and matches accuracy of my digital multimeter and vintage analog volt meter. It also indicates polarity: green light = pos ground, red light = neg ground. Can I use this to determine polarity of generator and avoid the polarizing process (if pos grnd is indicated) and if so, how do I connect? Volt check at battery indicated initial cut-in was slow to occurr, requiring 2-3 minutes at 1000+ rpm before voltage at battery rose above 6.4v. Then cks described above were accomplished. Battery + grounded to firewall via a short flat braided strap and block grounded to firewall by flat braided strap. All ground connections under the hood have been cleaned and in some cases star washers added.
This message was edited by flatcreeker on 10-24-21 @ 8:21 AM
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TomO |
10-24-2021 @ 9:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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I am having a problem understanding your post. You said that there was no voltage between the generator case or the regulator mounting and the POS post of the battery. Then you go on to say that there was no continuity between them. If you have a good grounding the case of the generator and the mounting base for the regulator should show continuity to the POS post of the battery. My instincts tell me that you equipment was not functioning properly or the grounding cable from the battery to the firewall is open. At this point, I feel that you should get some local help. Please contact the Regional Group nearest you for assistance in finding a good electrical shop to help you. You can find the contact information in the Regional Group Directory on the left side of this site.
Tom
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flatcreeker |
10-24-2021 @ 3:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Feb 2021
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I'm an idiot. I retraced my steps with continuity check. Thought I had the auditory alarm "on" but I had it "off". I DO HAVE CONTINUITY but no voltage between generator case and ground and likewise with regulator base. You have been most patient TomO. I will join one of the local chapters. Been trying to decide which one. None are proximate and I don't do Atlanta. Best to you- Doug
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