• Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:


    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / New 1940 Ford Book / Refurbishing Running Boards

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Refurbishing Running Boards -- page: 1 2

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

05-14-2010 @ 1:46 PM
Posts: 1
Joined: Dec 2009
I am searching for advice on how to replace running board rubber. I plan to scr*pe off the old rubber and wire-wheel to bare metal; however I am curious to know how you experienced guys would go about it. Also, is it best to put a coat of primer on before putting the rubber on?

I am new to the forum and am in the early stages of restoring a 1940 Fordor - so I'm sure I will be visiting the forum frequently.


05-14-2010 @ 2:14 PM
Posts: 2366
Joined: Oct 2009
Rich, The method used by most is to heat the rubber and scr*pe it off. Be careful to not overheat the board, to prevent warpage of the boards. Contact Hunley Acuff to reproduce the runningboard rubber by the original method. His method requires the blasting of your boards, which can be done there, or before.

Drake can supply a glue-on board cover, which can produce acceptable results, but is tricky to get it right. Drake also produces new boards, and installs that same rubber, but with heat and pressure.

IMHO, the Acuff board is the superior product.




05-15-2010 @ 6:30 AM
Posts: 2453
Joined: Oct 2009
Hi Rich, The easiest way to remove the rubber is to heat the board form the back side and with a putty knife, scr*pe the front (rubber) off.
If you insist on using covers, I suggest you get the boards media blasted. Do NOT apply any paint. You want a clean metal surface in which to apply the glue. Get 3M Rubber adhesive from a supply house like Grainger. I can supply the product number if desired.
There are some installation tricks to getting satisfactory results. If you decide to go this route, contact me and I will 'walk' you through the process.
If it's within your budget,I highly recommend Hundley's vulcanizing process. If you are restoring your car to show on a serious level, the covers simply won't make the grade.
Mike Kubarth

05-16-2010 @ 4:32 PM
Posts: 6105
Joined: Oct 2009
Rich, I would not use a wire wheel to remove the rubber. Heat the boards and scr*pe off the rubber, then have the residue removed by media blasting.

I had my boards redone by Hunley Aucliff and can recommend his process. He quoted me 3 prices, one where he removes the rubber, sandblast the boards and recovers them, another where you remove the rubber and the third where you send him the boards sandblasted.

I had to straighten one of the boards, so I removed the rubber and let him finish the job. His price for removing the rubber is well worth it. Unless you have a way to heat the whole board, it will take quite a bit if time to clean all of the rubber off. I spent one day on each board using a paint remover heat gun to heat the boards. I spent more time cleaning up the mess.

My boards had recesses on the top that would have had to be filled before I could use standard repop covers. Hunley's process fills them with the cover material.


05-16-2010 @ 5:24 PM
Posts: 2366
Joined: Oct 2009
Tom, The recesses you mention on your boards reminds me of the similar problem with the finished boards supplied by Drake: The brace weld on the underside shows a bump on the rubber, one evidence that his boards are not vulcanized. I hate to put down one of our best suppliers, but I call them as I see them.


05-17-2010 @ 8:11 AM
Posts: 6105
Joined: Oct 2009
Alan, the reason the bump shows through is Drake uses his rubber covers to cover the boards. He does use vulcanized rubber and bonds it to the boards with a high temperature adhesive, so they will not start to come off and bubble like the ones done at home.

"Vulcanization or vulcanisation is a chemical process for converting rubber or related polymers into more durable materials via the addition of sulfur or other equivalent "curatives"." definition from Wikpedia

Hunley Aucliff uses urethane rubber to mold his covers to the running board. By molding the cover to the board, small imperfections do not show through. The covers will be thinner in high spots and thicker in low spots.


05-17-2010 @ 8:45 PM
Posts: 2366
Joined: Oct 2009
Tom, just a miscommunication. I meant that his covers were pre-cured before adhering to the boards, as you also confirm. His process likely includes vacuum bagging and autoclave curing, which would be great but for the imperfections in the boards showing through.


05-18-2010 @ 7:20 AM
Posts: 6660
Joined: Oct 2009
While having an expert recondition your running boards can be pricey, anyone who has struggled with the process, only to be disappointed with the results, should be glad to send them out.

04-27-2016 @ 10:18 PM
Posts: 2
Joined: Apr 2016
His process likely includes vacuum bagging and autoclave curing, which would be great but for the imperfections in the boards showing through??

=== http://www.solitairecardgame.info/ ===

This message was edited by adolfainsley8 on 5-30-16 @ 2:07 AM

05-02-2016 @ 3:08 PM
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010
Well I did my boards over ten years ago, stripped them, sandblasted them and painted them with red rust oleum . Then I glued them withe the glue from drakes. They still look good but are probably not perfect for concours,, but I drive it every where.

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1