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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / 1940 Ford inquiries / discussions...

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10-10-2009 @ 6:39 AM
Posts: 3134
Joined: Oct 2009
I will do my absolute best to answer any and all questions / suggestions posted here in a timely manner.
It would help if you, the poster would start a 'NEW DISCUSSION' when appropriate. Otherwise, I can envision the possible oversight of a new post being 'lost' within differing subject matter when simply added / injected to an existing (differing) post dialog.
The NEW DISCUSSION option is available directly above the dialog box.
Thanks guys!

This message was edited by efv8 on 10-11-09 @ 1:35 PM

06-12-2010 @ 9:40 PM
Posts: 1
Joined: Jun 2010
Are non-original 40's welcome here?

06-13-2010 @ 5:34 AM
Posts: 3134
Joined: Oct 2009
If you have questions in regard to your '40, I will do my best to answer them...

10-12-2010 @ 6:59 PM
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010
Hi Mike ,can not find a nut yet, but here is the big Question,, I have a real nice set of door handles off of another car, what do you think of shortening the shafts and having them threaded. I think the machine shop at my old school could do it easily.

10-12-2010 @ 7:14 PM
Posts: 3134
Joined: Oct 2009
As a retired Tool & Die maker I can tell you with some authority that yes, threading the end of the shaft and drilling and tapping a hole in the end is no big challenge. What will be a bit of a challenge is how you would mount the handle to do such work.
I would strongly suggest you purchase a piece of 3/8" square cold rolled key stock and have the threads and tapped hole machined on that. Then, cut off the shaft on your handle, perhaps 1/2 way down the shaft and weld the appropriate length of your 'new' piece on that.
Remember that the threads on the outside of the shaft are left hand. The stock must be mounted in a lathe and the threads tooled in.

Hope this helps. I can probably supply you with dimensions if need be.
Mike Kubarth

10-14-2010 @ 6:02 PM
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010
thanks for the advice. my old school has a pretty well equiped machine shop and 3 sharp instructors. they making me bolts for the top out of stainlees right now. I told hthem if they could mass produce them I could sell thwm. Ha Ha

11-20-2020 @ 7:23 PM
Posts: 8
Joined: Dec 2014
Kube I sent you a PM on the Ford Barn Forum regarding the headliner bows numbers front to back.
I was missing the last full length bow (closest to the rear window) and picked up one with "F23" on it that the guy said was the correct one but do you have the F numbers front to back (5 major bows) so when I replace the headliner they can be in the correct order?

11-21-2020 @ 6:46 AM
Posts: 3134
Joined: Oct 2009
I do not and unfortunately, I had just last completed the installation of the current coupe project's headliner. Sorry.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

01-11-2021 @ 11:13 AM
Posts: 99
Joined: Nov 2015
Hi Geo,
I just ran across this post today, 1/11/21, and I realize this reply is almost certainly too late to be of any help. I have a '40 Fordor, so my info may be worthless as I think you have a two-door. My seven bows are numbered, front to rear as follows:

F35 - with circle around the 'F'
F22 - with a square box around the 'F'
F22 - with a square box around the 'F'
F02 - with a circle around the 'F'
F03 - with a circle around the 'F'
F03 - with a circle around the 'F'
F01 - with a circle around the 'F'


Gary G
09-29-2021 @ 10:35 AM
Posts: 2
Joined: Feb 2021
Kube..I am a friend of Mark Detwilder and he but me in touch with you, I recently purchased a early 1940 ford coupe out of long term storage out of Nevada. A very original standard coupe, no rust, most of the original upholstery is still intact but not useable. It has the jump seats in the back but missing the floor supports fro underneath. Would you know if anyone remakes them or where I could get pictures/measurements to fabricate replacements.
Gary Gilbert
North Fork Ca
cell# 559 760 8915

Thanks again, really enjoying your book, thanks for the time and effort to produce it

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