Topic: 1932 B project help

jim5618    -- 10-19-2010 @ 3:45 PM
  OK I am looking at getting a model B tudor that belonged to may uncle. I know he owned it for about 40 years and used to drive it around on sundays until about 10 years ago. IT has been in his work shop since then. At some point mice got in and chewed the upolstry. This is an estate and I really want to get it but could use some warnings on what to look for. I know the motor still turns over but it did not start (in 5 minutes of messing with it in frigid temps last winter). I do not have pictures to post but am mainly looking for things that indicate major issues. Rust is not one of them I think this has been garage kept since new...literally.

3w2    -- 10-19-2010 @ 8:01 PM

If rust is not a potential issue and you're already aware of the damage upholstery, about the only thing that might give you pause would be a lot of missing parts, as you likely know that '32 parts are getting scarcer by the day and their prices border on the ridiculous for some items. But from what you said, it is likely not missing things like fenders, hood, radiator sh*ll and grille, bumpers, etc.

As a Model B, you avoid the problem of unique-to-'32 V-8 goodies and their attendant scarcity and B engine parts generally remain available and are not that expensive.

While some pictures would be helpful, it sounds like there's not much to hold you back from going for it.

Good luck!


CharlieStephens    -- 10-20-2010 @ 4:40 AM
  Was the engine properly prepared for storage? If it only had water in it the water may have eaten through the head gasket and rusted the cylinders. Also rust in the cylinders from the lack of an oil film is another problem. Maybe it didn't start because the lifter bores were rusted and when the cam opened the valves they remained open. Did you run a compression test? Worst case rebuild the engine. If it has sentimental value, jump on it since you will never have another chance. We are missing part of the story here and all of the pictures. If the price is $2000 jump on it, if it is $30,000 look real hard. How about some photos? I have had several Model B's over the years and like them as well as the V8's.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 10-20-10 @ 5:05 AM

CharlieStephens    -- 10-21-2010 @ 11:57 AM
  Not car related but useful in settling an estate. The Old Cars Price Guide (available from book stores such as Barnes and Noble) will give you a value that you can probably use (ask your lawyer) and save the expense of having the car appraised. If you are trying to sell it outside of the family, or have a bunch of beneficiaries to deal with, you should probably get it appraised.

Charlie Stephens

jim5618    -- 10-29-2010 @ 12:47 PM
  I'm not selling it, I am buying it from my cousin(who inherited it). I have decided to go ahead with it. I have some pictures on the way down, and will post as soon as I get them. In the meantime any suggestions on starting points would be good. I do not think I am up to a frame off restoration (nor do I think the car needs it). So for now I want to get it runnig and get the interior redone. Any guidence on what to do, or not do on the interior is appreciated. Did they have a standard interior? or do I need to research the correct one?

ford38v8    -- 10-29-2010 @ 2:03 PM
  Jim, The first major issue that usually happens when someone gets into the hobby is that they dismantle the car. This is the beginning of the end, as they will never get it put right again.

Before doing anything, take pictures of every detail, and formulate a plan of action. From what you describe, you may very well have a car worthy of a prestigious award from our club just as it is today. This award, named "Rouge", is given a car having original paint, and/or original upholstery, and/or original running gear. Rouge cars needn't be in pristine condition, so your mouse damage is acceptable, as once a car is restored, originality is lost forever.With your car also, you have sentimental issues to consider, as a restored car is no longer the car your Uncle drove for 40 years.


jim5618    -- 10-29-2010 @ 3:04 PM
  Here are the pictures. not great shots. The car is pretty complete as far as lights chrome etc. I do not recall that the interior was ever completely redone.

jim5618    -- 10-29-2010 @ 3:04 PM

jim5618    -- 10-29-2010 @ 3:05 PM

jim5618    -- 10-29-2010 @ 3:06 PM
  Last one...also I believe the paint is good the pictures have dirt on them and the car is dirty.

ford38v8    -- 10-29-2010 @ 4:34 PM
  Jim, it looks like you have a really straight car there, most likely eligible for the Rouge award I told you of.

The first issue to deal with is DMV Registration. Your Title will have a number B5xxxxxx, which should match the number found on top of the left frame under the hood. This number is hand stamped, and will have a * star) prefix and suffix. This is the only identification your car will have, and should appear on the title. If your title has previously had an "assigned" number, insist that it be corrected to the correct one.To get started with your project, change the engine, transmission, and differential oils. Squirt a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. New battery, new plugs and fresh ignition. Rebuilt carburetor and fuel pump, cleaned & sealed gas tank. Fresh gasoline only. Use 87 octane gas, never E85. Spin the engine with plugs out to circulate the oil, then see if it will start for you with plugs and ignition on. As you don't know why your Uncle parked it, take care to listen for anything unusual. You will have leaky water pumps. They may settle in, but don't count on it. you will also want to have the radiator checked out at an old fashioned radiator shop capable of full radiator service. New hoses, of course, and check the generator belt.

Do not try to salvage the old tires. Get new tires and tubes from Coker. Check the brakes. If it has been converted to juice brakes, you'll have to rebuild the cylinders and check out the master cylinder. If it is original mechanical brakes, just check for shoe wear and proper adjustment. Don't worry about surface rust on the drums, that will polish off the first time you apply the brakes.

Anything that requires attention should always be retained rather than discarded, as most times, a rebuild is available and sometimes is better than new. Questions on authenticity or "best way to go" should come from us here on this Forum, never from a dealer or supplier. For a listing of good sources, go to the following link, which is my club here in the San Francisco Bay Area:


jim5618    -- 10-29-2010 @ 6:07 PM
  He "parked" it as he got older. He just stopped driving it a couple of years before he went into the nursing home. After he passed, my cousin moved it to a neighbors barn when they sold my uncles house. My cousin originally intended to keep it but is now selling it rather than ship it west. I am not sure I get the title issue? It was titled in Massachusetts. Alsthough I have not confirmed it, I believe it is all original motor transmission etc. I know my uncle did not do a major restore nor would he have had funds to do so.

ford38v8    -- 10-29-2010 @ 6:57 PM
  Jim, As I don't know what your question is about the title issue, I'll take a guess. Sometimes a title gets transferred without confirming the original ID number of the car. When this happens, a DMV may issue a new number of their choosing just to get it titled. You will want the correct number on your new title for obvious reasons.

By the way, You will want to belong to the EFV8CA, for sure, and to join a Regional Group near your home. Also, the brand new publication from the Club, "The 1932 Ford Book" in two volumes, represents the life work of its Author, David Rehor. David is a long time V8 member, who has already posted his comment on your thread. If I've told you anything that Dave disagrees with, go with what he says instead.

David's book is the bible on '32 Fords, and available here:


jim5618    -- 10-30-2010 @ 8:38 AM
  Alan. That answered my question. It will be a while before i get myriad. hands on the title. The executor needs to apply for a duplicate then transfer it to me. I will definately get the book. In the mea. Time where.would i look for the codes to.determine exact model interior color and if it has original motor?

CharlieStephens    -- 10-30-2010 @ 11:33 AM

First remember the caution about removing the original interior (or changing anything else). If it is indeed original and not from an earlier restoration you may want to preserve it and enter your car in the Rouge class. They are only original once but can be restored many times. There are no codes that will tell you the original paint or upholstery. You should call LeBaron Bonney, (800) 221-5408, and request upholstery information and samples for your specific car. Tell them year, model and standard or deluxe. When you get this they will probably match what is in the book. If they don’t match, ask them and post questions. There may be subtle differences that should be addresses (e.g., a super early or super late car). There are other upholstery suppliers out there that you might want to compare but I think they are generally considered the best (comments anyone?). The original motor should look like a Model A motor but have a fuel pump on the passenger side towards the front of the engine. You might find it interesting to look at Vince Falters excellent site When you get the car post pictures of all of the accessories (carburetor, air filter, generator, fan, splash pans etc) and people will comment on their correctness. You will not be able to determine if the motor is the one that came with the car originally, only that it is correct for the car. There were no serial numbers on the original motor. The serial number was stamped into a pad on the top of the flywheel housing and into the top of the driver’s side frame rail near the steering box (it is visible without removing anything). As previously stated the serial number will probably take the format *B5XXXXXX* but may take the format *AB5XXXXXX* if it is an early car. If the two numbers don’t match the DMV will probably go with the one on the frame or decide to attach a plate to the door jam. It is nice to use the original number. In my opinion (comments anyone?) if the numbers don’t match and the DMV wants to inspect it point to the one on the frame (which should be on the paperwork) and ignore the one on the flywheel housing unless they find it.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 10-30-10 @ 12:06 PM

jim5618    -- 10-30-2010 @ 11:54 AM
  Charlie, Not sure you saw the pictures I posted. The interior is totally shot. There really isn't an option of not fixing the interior.

CharlieStephens    -- 10-30-2010 @ 12:18 PM

I missed the shots when you posted them originally. My computer/service provider doesn't like pictures from this site for some reason. I tried again and they downloaded very very slowley. I see what you mean about the interior.

Charlie Stephens

3w2    -- 10-31-2010 @ 10:00 PM

You're right, the photos aren't the greatest, but they still convey a fair amount of information. For example, there is very little wear on the circumference of the steering wheel, which is indicative of a fairly low mileage car. If the rest of the interior is like the door trim panels, it is toast, but at least for sure you know that this car left the factory as a black one. From what I can see of the channel in which the glass rests, it appears to be very good and relatively rust free, which is another positive sign. The lines of the beads of fenders and running board on the right side are as they should be and if that's true for the sections of the fenders not in the photo and on the left side, that is extremely fortunate.

While the picture is incomplete, from what I saw in those photos I believe you've got yourself an excellent '32 standard Tudor. Hopefully you'll share some more photos of it with us after you've brought it home and cleaned it up.

When you receive your "The 1932 Book, A Production Chronicle and Restoration Guide", you'll see some photos of the interior of a mint original standard Tudor like yours. The material in that car is Thorne Brown mohair, which seems to have been used in the vast majority of '32 standard closed cars, although there were other choices as well (this is well covered in "the book"). I know from personal experience that LeBaron Bonney can supply you with an outstanding match for this material in the correct form for your standard Tudor and I can send you a sample of their material that I have used to steer you straight as they offer several different shades of brown mohair. I believe that their upholstery kits for this model are accurate as well.


P.S. Charlie, Thanks for the compliment!

jim5618    -- 11-01-2010 @ 12:01 PM
  Thanks for the advice. It is a bit hard to deal with long distance right now. The car is in New England and I am in DC. I know the interior was complete but a little ratty when it was parked so I know all the springs and door hardware is there. I am hoping to find out tonight if we have a deal, so hopefully by next week I can get mor pictures and info. Silly question for you while I am waiting for th ebook ot arrive. I noticed on another B tudor the wheels were black, while mine are a light color. does that mean anything?

3w2    -- 11-01-2010 @ 8:52 PM

It's not a silly question at all. Black wheels were standard equipment on '32 standard models such as your Tudor and colored wheels were optional at extra cost on these models (they were standard equipment on the deluxe models). So, either black wheels or Tacoma cream, Apple green, or Aurora red wheels would be correct for your car.


jim5618    -- 11-04-2010 @ 4:15 PM
  WOW! got my Lebaron catalog today. I thought this was going to be a difficult process to find things. I can't wait to get started. I will post shots once we get the car out of the barn... no really, it is in the neighbors barn. I guess that makes it a barn find...

CharlieStephens    -- 11-05-2010 @ 10:10 AM

There is one question you will need to face soon. I bring this up since in your last post you said you just got your Lebaron catalogue and you should have the answer in you head as you read the catalogue. Regardless of what you decide you need to make this decision early. Do you want to restore your car as a standard or a deluxe? I like to see them restored as they came from the factory although the deluxe looks a little more “deluxe”. You will spend a little more money changing to a deluxe (which was very common when the cars were “restored” in the seventies). A standard car stands out more since most cars were changed to deluxe when they were "restored" in the past. The main things that come to mind are different upholstery choices (including carpets versus rubber mats on the floor), paint versus wood grain (be sure to price wood graining if you don’t intend to do it yourself, probably about $800) for the interior dash and garnish. Cowl lights and single bulb headlight reflectors on the deluxe (although they were an option on the standard cars). Oval dome light on the deluxe versus round on the standard. There is a good table on page 11-29 of the club’s book with a lot of other small items.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 11-5-10 @ 10:11 AM

jim5618    -- 11-05-2010 @ 7:51 PM
  Charlie, I agree to your way of thinking. I want the car to look like it did when it was new. It will be restored as a standard. I was wondering what the dash was supposed to be (my book isn't here yet).

CharlieStephens    -- 11-06-2010 @ 9:01 AM

I looked through "The 1932 Ford Book" a couple of times and couldn't find the information. I am sure it is in there somewhere (help Dave). "The 1932 Ford Judging and Restoration Standards" that Dave Rehor wrote and the club published in 1982 state that "The dash and window moldings on all standard cars were painted interior gray (taupe); these components were woodgrained on all deluxe cars..." This is the finish you will probably find in your car (maybe under a couple of layers of paint).

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 11-6-10 @ 9:04 AM

3w2    -- 11-07-2010 @ 7:35 PM
  Jim (and Charlie),

There are three color photos of 'interior gray' dashes in the book, but as I'm traveling I can't give you the specific page numbers for the photos and the text reference to this finish.


jim5618    -- 11-12-2010 @ 10:53 AM
  Got the book and did find it. I was worried it would be a more difficult wood grained look.

Is there any feature of this car that was only made for 6 Months? I racall my uncle at one point mentioning it was rare a)because a lot were cut up, but I thought he said there was something about the fuel pump or oil pump that was only done for 6 months? I went through the book and I wonder if he was refering to the fact that they didn't start selling them till mid year waiting for the V-8's. Just curious as i didn't see anything in the book that matched up to his recollection (which was probably third hand anyway).

CharlieStephens    -- 11-12-2010 @ 12:31 PM

I am not sure I understand your question. The cars were rare because of low production (due to depression) and the fact that a lot of them were cut up. I can't remember anything special about the fuel pump or the oil pump. I wonder if it had something to do with the fact that a Model A did not have a fuel pump which would make the engine rare compared to a Model A.

Charlie Stephens

3w2    -- 11-12-2010 @ 6:12 PM

In looking back at the photos that you supplied, I am curious about a couple of interior items in the car. Does it have armrests (or the remnants thereof) in the rear compartment? Where in the ceiling is the dome lamp located and what is its exterior shape (round or oval)? Are there assist straps on the inside of the 'B' pillars inside the car? Is there any evidence that the car once had cowl lamps? I ask these as what's left of the finish on the dash and window garnish mouldings is pretty dark, darker than most original pieces that were originally painted 'interior gray'.



P.S. Your car has the later dash and door window garnish mouldings, but still has the early type of starter switch control (on the steering column bracket attached to the lower edge of the dash). That tends to suggest that it is a middle-of-the-(production) year car and free of some the rare and unique items associated with very early and very late production '32 model vehicles.

jim5618    -- 11-18-2010 @ 6:41 PM
  Sorry for the slow response, this has been a maddeningly slow process. The car is in western Mass where I grew up. I have arranged for the purchase from my cousin and am waiting for my 73 year old dad to go get it and bring it to his house (where he has a nice big metal building to store it in). As soon as he gets it I will hopefully get lots of pictures of it. I am going up for a week around christmas and we will (using proper preparation and precautions) try to get it running. This was not a planned purchase, more of a "do you want it before we sell it for next to nothing" deal. Good deal but now I need to figure out where to work on it and how to get it to maryland (where I only have a carport to keep it in). Fun fun fun

ford38v8    -- 11-18-2010 @ 7:21 PM
  Jim, the old car hobby is something you build your life around. A carport is absolutely not the way to go. You must have secure storage from the weather and from theft, and enough indoor room to work. Your car appears to have been protected from the weather all these years so far, and now you will become its caretaker, and I'm sure you don't want to muff it!


jim5618    -- 11-23-2010 @ 10:18 AM

Not to worry. I finally get to win the argument over closing the carport into a family room or into a garage. While I certainly would not be able to take the body off in there, it will be plenty large enough to work on the car. This isn't a tacked on car port, this is a 1940's style, concrete pad, attic above it, type that for whatever reason, never got closed in.

jim5618    -- 12-19-2010 @ 8:06 PM
  Here are a few pics of the car. I know the heater is not stock, but have not identified what it is. I plan on removing it. Other than the water hoses and black paint, anything else look particularly wrong on the car?

trjford8    -- 12-19-2010 @ 8:49 PM
  Here's just a quick comment on what I spotted that is not correct; 1) there is an accessory release handle on the emergency brake lever, 2) the jack and the two lug wrenches are not correct, 3) there is an accessory vacuum gauge mounted on the driver's side of the dash board, 4)the pedal pads are not correct, 5) and the spare locking hub cap is 33-34 Ford and not 32.
All considered that is one nice 32 tudor and the things I spotted are minor. You are very lucky to be able to restore a car that has so many original parts.

CharlieStephens    -- 12-19-2010 @ 9:21 PM
  You have an interesting ammeter. It is either extremely rare, from another car, or a replacement. Yours goes to 30 amps. Note the bezel has a different patina. The original ones that I have seen only go to 20 amps. I couldn't find any reference to the 30 amp gauge in "The 1932 Ford Book".

What does the knob in the lower center control? It should just be a plug in the early "B's" and a dash light switch beginning in late June (ref "The 1932 Ford Book"). If you need knobs there are excellent reproductions available but I think most of yours look good with the patina.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 12-20-10 @ 10:42 AM

jim5618    -- 12-20-2010 @ 8:11 PM guess is the amp meter is incorrect for the year. I think I am going to be finding pieces on the car that were not correct, either because my uncle didn't know, or because in the 60's parts were hard to come by. For now I am going to focus on functional. Replace missing items and items needed to make the car operational. At that point I can worry more on correct knobs and stuff. I still want to ID items that are wrong though.

I will look at that knob tomarrow to see what it does.

3w2    -- 12-20-2010 @ 8:44 PM

The 30 amp ammeter is a late '33-'34 truck item. It will likely have a loop on the back and not the two studs characteristic of the '32 20 amp ammeter. The black bezel suggests that it was a war-time service part (no chrome). These show up on eBay from time to time in NOS form.

Given that this car has the pull type starter control, it would not have had a dash light switch originally, so what is presently in the center hole in the instrument panel is likely not original (a heater blower switch, perhaps?).

Dave Rehor

jim5618    -- 12-22-2010 @ 7:49 PM
  I think you might be right on the switch in the dash. Right now the wires are not hooked up to anything.

jim5618    -- 02-18-2011 @ 6:16 AM
  I haven't posted in a while. Slow progress with the car not at home. I added more pictures, please, please feel free to point out anything on the car. One issue I am concerned with is the driver's side door. It has a crack in it that looks like a bondo crack. Not sure I can fix it without repainting the car.

I lucked out and am looking at a used (reproduction) interior. That way I can fix the car up a bit without putting a brand new interior in a driver body.

3w2    -- 02-18-2011 @ 7:12 PM

You're probably correct about the crack in the paint surface by the door hinge. Likely the door was over-opened at some point (not uncommon) and the sheet metal around the hinge was deformed as a result. Rather than remove the dent in the sheet metal, someone filled the depression with bondo, which has deteriorated with time, likely because it was too thick.

Your car was originally equipped with curved steel door check straps on the front edge of the doors that fitted through slots in cowl hinge pillar. These had a rubber bumper on their ends to limit how far the doors could be opened. They could be missing now.


jim5618    -- 03-01-2011 @ 8:37 AM
  I was looking at my "to Buy" list and got around to looking at tires. It looks like Coker only sells one tire for this car? 525/550-18 EXCELSIOR BLACKWALL TIRE at $148 plus the tube. This sound right? Can these be mounted by hand?

CharlieStephens    -- 03-01-2011 @ 9:51 AM
  Yes the tires can be mounted by hand. If you can't do it find a Model A guy to help or go to an older tire shop that works on big trucks. Remember when you inflate the tube you should allow it to deflate once to get the wrinkles out and be sure you don't pinch the tube between the tire and the rim or cut it with the tire iron. Check the Model A archives on about tire mounting. A lot of people use sheets of plastic to avoid scratching the paint on the wheels. The tire mounting tools were part of the tool kit (one anyway but I like to use two). Larger and easier to use tools are available from Craftsman, Snap-on etc. DO NOT take it to a modern shop with young kids working or they will probably put it on a tire changing machine and bend the wheel. If they promise to do it by hand stick around and watch them. I am surprised more suppliers don't have the tires you are looking for. It's just me but I would go with one of the original brands like Firestone. I prefer black walls but if you go white walls remember they should be white on both sides.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 3-1-11 @ 9:59 AM

jim5618    -- 03-01-2011 @ 12:31 PM
  Charlie, my dad sold farm equipment and drove truck for years so we have the knowledge on how to do it by hand, just never done it on old fords and wanted to make sure it wasn't next to impossible by hand.

I will check some other sources on the tires. I guess I am a victim of good marketing and went straight to coker to check prices. I will definately go with blackwalls.

trjford8    -- 03-01-2011 @ 7:54 PM
  Jim, check out this site; or check out Universal Tire Company at; . The phone number is 1-877-454-3954. They are in Hershey, Pa. They can also be found on e-bay as Universal Tire in the vintage car parts section.

This message was edited by trjford8 on 3-1-11 @ 8:40 PM

jim5618    -- 03-02-2011 @ 6:14 AM
  Any particular reason the dunlops are so much more than the others? I'll propbably go with universal as I can pick them up the next time I drive to Massachusetts.

Carlock    -- 03-02-2011 @ 9:16 AM
  I recently replaced the 18" tires on my 32 and used the Firestones from universal. Went on well and are fairly well balanced without adding weights. The molds for the 18" firestones have recently been reworked or remade and the sidewall lettering is very nice now compared to the older Firestones. You will like these.

37RAGTOPMAN    -- 03-02-2011 @ 6:54 PM
  See what is the bottom line in the buying price,!!!
what I see is a real nice no rust car.
if it was mine I would get it running,[ very simple engine to get running,] I have done many , and see how it shifts and stops, check it for wear here and there, and repair as needed, maybe kingpins, tie rod,brakes and tires and waterhoses,safty things, plus major tune up, and clean the fuel system, and get ready for the road,
clean it up real well and see how it looks and maybe just drive it the way you found it and have fun with it, doing maintence
Lebaron BONNEY will sell you a interior,
you can call them for a price it you want to get real involved with the interior, or just replace the door panels and kick panels for starters, you can do it piece meal, pay as you go,
I would NOT TEAR IT APART, as I see it,
it all depends how old you are,over 60 FORGETABOUTIT,,,
it is a very big and costly job,and would be hard to do, if you have a family.
This is also BIGGY.YOU Need a place to work on it,TEAR ALL APART, WERE TO PUT ALL THE PARTS,???
If you do buy a good digital camera,that will take clear close up pictures,and take a lot of pictures,
I have seen many unfinished projects, that started with great intentions, but never got put back together,
Looking at the pictures, this should be worth maybe $5-$8000 as is,you should be able to buy a OLD RESTORATION for maybe $20,000 GIVE OT TAKE a few dollars,
I think the interior would be the most expensive item I see,call LEBARON BONNY for price quote before you buY the car,TO GET A IDEA,on what faces you,
hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!!

3w2    -- 03-03-2011 @ 8:17 AM

While the Firestone 18" tires are nice, the available tread design is one that Firestone adopted in 1935, which may or may not make a difference to you. (Please see page 4-5 of your book.)

For the same price, you could buy B.F. Goodrich tires which have the only 100% correct tread and sidewall markings as the Goodrich tires used by Ford in 1932. These tires are made by Coker.

While it may not be widely known, Universal is owned by Coker Tire and while they do not normally carry 18" Goodrich tires, I suspect that they would order them from their parent company, Coker, for you so that you could pick them up in Pennsylvania at no extra cost.


jim5618    -- 03-03-2011 @ 10:45 AM
  37RAGTOPMAN, Sorry I realized I don't have a lot of detail on my status. I did buy the car already and moved it to my Dad's garage. For the record, I have not yet hit 50 so I do plan on a lot of years with it. Due to the fact that I am not located where the car is, my project tends to be a month of research and buying, then a weekend of a lot of work on the car. Yes getting the mechanicals going is a priority. Next trip we should have it running and will clean out the gas tank, oilpan and check the radiator. While the tires on it hold air, I would not be surprised if any of them were original equipment, they are real old and real bald. After we get it running and stopping well, I will do the interior. I have a line on a used lebaron interior (was taken out ot do a hotrod). While I am not trying to build a show car, I am trying to stay close to original where I can. For example I am buying original tailight, starter switch etc, not reproduction.. Floor boards are ordered and are some point (next fall?) I will probably have it rewired, as a lot of the wiring looks home meade.

jim5618    -- 04-05-2011 @ 12:27 PM
  Update. Went up this weekend and got a lot done. First issue was getting the switch I got put on the starter, new battery, hit the switch....nothing. tried another switch, nothing. Turns out my Dad forgot to release the springs on the brushes. We fixed that and the car fired right over with the plugs out....plugs back in added lawn mower Gas tank hooked directly to the carb (still need to rebuild fuel pump), got the fire extiquisher just in case, and it started right up! Only ran it for 10 seconds but it sounded good.

We pulled the gas tank, still had a couple of gallons in it (looked dark as diesal). No real sludge, but some surface rust. We are contemplating the rock tumbling routine, but I think we will just go with rust treatment and sealer. The pickup unit wasn't even plugged up. Didn't even need penetrating oil on the bolts, it all came right off. Car hasn't seen moisture in 40 years...

Pulled the oil pan (had to post here to find out I needed to turn the steering wheel to the left to get the pan to go past the tie rod). Dumped the oil out and dropped the pan in the grass. The inner piece popped right out. Oil in the bottom was like mollases but no chunks of anything in it. We did find some gasket looking material in tihe screen for the oil pump, not a lot though.

What a pain in the AS_ to get the pan back on. Finally realized I needed to screw a bolt in where the setscrew was to hold the oilpump up. Got it all back together.

Was VERY happy to discover the bottom plate for where the pedals meet the floorboards was still attached. My drivers side door is pretty scr*w*d up. May have been repaired, but it is way out of alignment and the seam looks like it is coming apart by the bottom hinge.

My locking hub cap on the spare has no key and I can't get at it even from the back. The rear bumper was broken off and welded back on. It looks straight but is why it was painted and not the polished nickle. Sorry for the long post but excited to finally have progress.

By The Way.... what are these holes in the center of my floor for? Looks like one is slightly distorted.

CharlieStephens    -- 04-05-2011 @ 7:22 PM

On the locking cap. Any chance that the cap or wheel are in such poor condition that you could remove it with a high speed grinder without feeling guilty? I hate to add that good wheels are not that expensive. If not, look for a lock smith for use when you can drive the car to him. By the way, the bumpers should be chrome not nickel.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 4-5-11 @ 7:24 PM

jim5618    -- 04-06-2011 @ 8:10 AM

I am attaching a picture. Would hate to mess up th ewheel as the paint matches all the way around. I have no idea what the hub is worth. Basically it is the cost of the lock smith and trip there vs the value of the hubcap. I assume I could cut the center out of th ehub and then release the lock without hurting the wheel. The spare tire mount is already off the car so taking it to a locksmith isn't a big deal either. What is the hub worth?

3w2    -- 04-06-2011 @ 6:13 PM

Your locking hubcap is for a '34 Ford. Given its evident condition, it is likely not worth more than $40-$50.


jim5618    -- 04-08-2011 @ 7:42 AM

Thanks, that is what I was looking for. for that price I will probably cut it off. You being up a good point. It isn't exactly a pristine part.

Annagyijjk    -- 04-08-2011 @ 5:44 PM
  Here are the photos. not great photos. The car is quite complete as the chrome, lights etc. I remember that the inside has been completely remodeled.

tory burch shoes Tory Burch Shoes-Fashion Life Style

3w2    -- 04-08-2011 @ 6:31 PM
  Sorry, but these so-called photos of a car are advertisements for shoes for women.

3w2    -- 04-08-2011 @ 6:35 PM

If you slide the oval cover above the lock cylinder out of the way, you could drill into the center of the lock cylinder and not ruin the rest of the cap, which would still have some value.


jim5618    -- 04-13-2011 @ 8:22 PM
  stupid question but how big a drill bit? I have never drilled out a lock before.

trjford8    -- 04-14-2011 @ 7:52 PM
  Start with 1/4 inch drill and work your way up if you need a bigger one. Once the pins and springs fall out of the cylinder the lock will spin freely to release the cap.

jim5618    -- 06-21-2011 @ 6:33 AM
  I thought I would update this thread. Went back up to work on the car this weekend. Stopped in at Dick Spadaro's on the way home from the airport. Man does he have a lot of used stuff. Got to see his 32 Tudor as well. Busy day yesterday. I drilled out the lock on the hubcap and turned it with an easy-out, mechanics work ok. I am thinking of getting a new lock ot replace it with.
Started the POR 15 treatment on the gas tank. Got the seats and floorboard out (after a quick call to Roy for directions). found a previous owners 1947 license in the car as well as a wooden gas guage stick in the door. Replaced the battery tray and fuel pump. Got the horn working. Once I got the wires hooked up right and realize my uncle had wired a door bell button by the vacuum gauge, it worked. I had to take the heater out to get the floor out. Believe it or not I have yet to need penetrating oil on a single nut so far. Car is in great shape. More work on the tank and getting the floor board ready to go in then putting it away till the July 4th weekend. Crossing my fingers on getting it to Saratoga. Might trailer it up if I have to.

More photos on Smug mug:

trjford8    -- 06-21-2011 @ 3:12 PM
  Jim, thanks for the photos. I'm amazed that your car is in such great original condition. Usually by now the rats and mice have destroyed the upholstery. I can see that the original burlap is still covering the seat springs and the original insulator is still on the firewall. Thanks again for letting us look at a very nice 32.

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