| 47Fordor | -- 03-21-2010 @ 12:20 PM |
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My '47 SD Fordor is in lots of pieces right now. I'm saving up to get my engine fixed up right now. Meanwhile, while messing around in the shop the other day, I came across the shut off valve for the heater (mounts on the right head: shuts off water to heater for summer use). The valve is in good shape, although it was frozen in the open position. Yesterday I pulled it appart, in hopes of unfreezing it/reconditioning it. In the top of the valve, just under the threaded top, was something black and tar-like, which I assume was once a packing washer. Does anybody know a good source for this packing and does anybody have suggestions on reconditioning this valve? Thanks Chris
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| 4dFordSC | -- 03-22-2010 @ 9:10 AM |
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You might check with Larry Caplan in Northridge, CA (818-363-2849). I believe he sells the "guts" to rebuild these valves.
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| supereal | -- 03-22-2010 @ 12:17 PM |
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You can order a new one from C&G (800/266-0470) for $20. Ask for 91A-15142-V8. Old valve usually have bad seats and stem packing, making rebuilding unlikely.
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| 47Fordor | -- 03-22-2010 @ 6:17 PM |
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I looked at C&G. The picture of their valve looks very little like mine. It's white metal, instead of brass, it's shorter than mine and the handle (knob...whatever) is shaped differently. I was talking to a guy at a show, a while back, with a '46 sedan and he mentioned that the aftermarket valves always seem to be too short: he had to reroute the hose on his because of it. I'll have to see just what Mr Caplain has to offer. I suppose, if all else fails, I could probably buy the one from C&G and see if it's guts work in my valve. Of course, they probably won't but it wouldn't hurt to find out. Chris
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| supereal | -- 03-23-2010 @ 9:28 AM |
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My '47 has the diecast valve, rather than brass. I don't understand why there would be a problem with the hose routing, unless the valve was facing the wrong direction. As I recall, the base of the valve has a pipe thread, and with a bit of Teflon tape, can be tightened to position needed.
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-23-2010 @ 5:34 PM |
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Regarding the use of teflon tape for fittings, this is kinda basic stuff, but you'd be surprised at how many first timers on the Concourse are blind to the sight of white teflon tape under their hoods. It's a small thing, and costs very little in the way of point deductions, but they all add up, and a first timer can't afford these type of deductions. It takes just a little attention to detail to make your car pull as many points as possible. There's another item under the hood that some guys will argue about, and that's the often seen carburetor fuel line thread adapter. These, of course, are after-market, for use when someone stripped out the carburetor threads. One more thing a Judge will catch and deduct for, is the item that was sold to the Newbie for his car by the dealer that told him it was "right" for his car. Sure, it fits, but is after-market, or Service Replacement, or an incorrect re-pop. It's up to the owner, not the dealer, to research what is correct for his car. ...And don't be shy, ask a Judge or an owner of a Dearborn car. I never saw one who who wouldn't gladly tell you more stuff than you asked for in the first place. Alan
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| trjford8 | -- 03-23-2010 @ 6:50 PM |
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Teflon tape should not be used on pipe threads. I split a transmission case once by using it on a fitting. Pipe threads are based on an "interference fit". The tape is slippery enough to cause the plug or fitting to go too deep into the hole.
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| supereal | -- 03-24-2010 @ 10:06 AM |
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I agree with Tom, except that when carefully used, it will allow a fitting to be oriented in a particular position, rather than when the conical threading is tightened until it stops. We also use a Teflon-based plumber's compound on pipe threads, particularly if they show wear or damage from over tightening. If you use the tape, just put on one turn, and to avoid the problem Alan outlines, use a razor blade or sharp utility knife to remove all traces of the tape above the connection. Don't use Teflon tape on any part of a fuel system, as any particles that come off during tightening will almost always cause carb problems.
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