| Neverdone | -- 11-04-2014 @ 11:08 AM |
|
For some reason my whole post is not here and the picture links are gone and I do not figure how to delete it all until I figure it out I have a running motor from a 1936 car , when the motor was pulled these wires were cut , I would like help identifying them and where they go . The first picture shows the wire as they come out of the left hand metal wire loom .. http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/Flatheadandfireplace009-1.jpg The next picture shows the wires the color I believe they are ...wires 1 and 5 are heaver gauge and "Y" in some wires mean yellow http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/Flatheadandfireplace008.jpg I have a copy of 1928-48 Ford Chassis Parts Manual and I still am having problems with the schematic and routing of these wires Thank you Dan This message was edited by Neverdone on 11-4-14 @ 11:28 AM
|
|
| nelsb01 | -- 11-04-2014 @ 1:20 PM |
|
From the first picture, it looks like those are the wires that go through the firewall and toward the gauges,since it looks from the picture that they are coming out of the end of the spark plug tube. One of the heavier yellow wires (wire 5) will be the wire that goes to and through the amp gauge. The other heavy yellow wire (wire 1) goes to the resistor board under the dash. It is accompanied by another yellow wire (wire 7 ??). Of course, as you can see from the diagram in the Parts Manual, the wires split and some go into the body and others go to the steering bail, at the end of the steering sector. This is some help, but not the total help you are looking for. Suggest two things. 1) find someone with a 1936 or 1937 and look at that wiring, or 2) purchase a new wiring loom and re-wire (which is what you are going to have to do sometime). I am sure that there will be other replies.
|
|
| Neverdone | -- 11-04-2014 @ 4:36 PM |
|
Thank you Nels , You have already help tremendously by eliminating where the #5 will go I have a schematic that I will color code as I find out where the wires go . I am not good enough to figure this from the schematic alone so by process of elimination I will learn to read it . At this point I just want the motor to run and move the truck until I can get to it next year after my present project is done Thanks again Dan From the first picture, it looks like those are the wires that go through the firewall and toward the gauges,since it looks from the picture that they are coming out of the end of the spark plug tube. One of the heavier yellow wires (wire 5) will be the wire that goes to and through the amp gauge. The other heavy yellow wire (wire 1) goes to the resistor board under the dash. It is accompanied by another yellow wire (wire 7 ??). Of course, as you can see from the diagram in the Parts Manual, the wires split and some go into the body and others go to the steering bail, at the end of the steering sector. This is some help, but not the total help you are looking for. Suggest two things. 1) find someone with a 1936 or 1937 and look at that wiring, or 2) purchase a new wiring loom and re-wire (which is what you are going to have to do sometime). I am sure that there will be other replies.
|
|
| TomO | -- 11-05-2014 @ 7:24 AM |
|
Hi Dan, Welcome to the Forum. Bruce gave you a summary of the wires and a good suggestion of buying a new reproduction harness and starting from scratch. To get the engine running, you will need wiring for the starter and the ignition. I don't know how much wiring is left from your instrument panel to the engine compartment, so I will give you general directions for a 1936 truck. You will need cable from the battery to the starter switch and from the starter switch to the starter. You will need a wire from the battery side of the starter switch to the ignition switch, another wire from the ignition switch to the ignition resister and from the other side of the resister to the coil. This wiring will allow you to move the truck a short distance. The lights will not be connected and the generator will not be connected with this wiring. Here is a link to the 36 wiring schematic, so you can identify the whe rest of the wires. http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1936.jpg Tom
|
|
| Neverdone | -- 11-06-2014 @ 10:23 AM |
|
Hello all , I started tearing into the 41 Ford trucks wiring. After I eliminated circuits I knew were not needed for the 36 motor to run and wire running the gamut from lamp wire to 12-2 house wire I ran into some items I was not familiar with ..in photo #1 I found this under the dash , I mark where the wires went or what if anything they were attached to. Could this be the ignition resister and is it needed ? http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/1941wiringitems001.jpg I did find a fuse board under there but the only fuse in it was for the wipers but I guess it also appears to be used as a "connection " point . One of these wires runs thru the firewall to the right hand terminal on the voltage regulator , is a different voltage regulator use to run the 36 motor ? http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/1941wiringitems003.jpg I also found this box on the inner fender that also had a wire attached that went up to the right hand terminal on the voltage regulator . I moved it up there for picture . what is this 3 terminal box ? http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/1941wiringitems005.jpg The wire that was on the far right on this was hooked to the bottom of the steering column !!! I swear it goes straight in it .... what does this do ?? I am going to make a new harness once I learn what I am doing and where everything goes ..and write a "for dummies " tech tip about it Thanks Dan
|
|
| TomO | -- 11-07-2014 @ 7:03 AM |
|
The first photo is the ignition resister and the wire that is not attached should go to the coil. If you are using the stock Ford coil, the resister is needed. If you are using an aftermarket coil, you must follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The 36 Ford did not have a voltage regulator. It used a 3 brush generator and the 3rd brush was used to adjust the output of the generator. There was a cutout mounted on top of the generator to prevent a back circuit when the generator output was less than 6 volts. The 3rd photo shows an aftermarket horn relay. Because your truck is a 41, you should use the 41 wiring diagram and a 2 brush generator with a voltage regulator. The temperature sensor on a 36 is completely different than on the 41. There is no provision on the 41 to use the 36 temperature sensor and no provision on the 36 block to accommodate the 36 temperature sensor. You will be better off to plan on using an aftermarket temperature gauge and sensor. There may be other differences that will have to be considered, when you are ready to drive the truck. Tom
|
|
| Neverdone | -- 11-08-2014 @ 10:23 AM |
|
Thanks Tom , Good advise and great info . I AM feeling a little stuck on stupid as I figured out the wire that goes into the bottom of the steering box as the horn wire ... then when you told me about the horn relay it is one more batch of wires to worry about later . I have not spent a day reading through this site yet but I am guessing that it is geared toward originality . Why do you suggest to wire this to the 41 instead of rewiring it to the 36 motor . I should state the 41 wiring is roached and needs a complete re wire anyway .Also the 36 motor was running with the 3 brush generator on top and working . Thanks Dan
|
|
| TomO | -- 11-08-2014 @ 2:03 PM |
|
Dan, The horn relay has one hot wire going to it, a wire going to the bottom of the steering column and another wire going to the horn. I suggested wiring to the 41 truck as it will be easier. You can fit a 41 wiring harness to a 36 motor in a 41 truck, but you cannot fit a 36 wiring harness into a 41 truck cowl and chassis. The light switch on the 41 is on the dash, not at the bottom of the steering column, and the 36 generator with the cutout would be marginal with the sealed beams of the 41. If you don't have a 41 generator,post an advertisement in the Classified section of this site offering to swap the 36 generator for a working 39-48 generator. You are building a vehicle to your liking and no one on this site will object to that. You must remember that when you deviate from originality, it is more difficult to give remote diagnosis. Each year car has its own peculiarities and when you deviate from stock you are the one that has to determine what is changed and is it better. You will also have to include all things that are different, when you ask for help. I suggest that you bite the bullet and order a reproduction harness for the cowl and engine of a 41 Ford pickup. You will save many hours of trying to figure out which wire goes where and then trying to trouble shoot the problem when things do not work. The harness comes with each wire tagged and it has the correct color code to match up with the wiring diagram. Tom
|
|
| Neverdone | -- 11-09-2014 @ 10:50 AM |
|
Tom , The wire harness is in my shopping cart , are any of these generator's what I need for the switch ? http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/Flatheadgenerators001.jpg http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/Flatheadgenerators002-1.jpg http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/Flatheadgenerators003-1.jpg Also would there be a front motor mount issue ? And if you would ... I saw another problem while checking what wheel cyl. I need ...the steering bar [?]/draglink[?] is hitting the wishbone all through the turning cycle Is it supposed to be bent to clear it? http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/Flatheadgenerators005.jpg http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/OldoginMd/Flatheadgenerators007.jpg Thanks ! Dan
|
|
| 3w2 | -- 11-09-2014 @ 4:29 PM |
|
Your last question is easy. Your steering drag link is installed downside up, hence the need to bend it to clear the wishbone. Given that the hole in the spindle arm is tapered as is the stud on the end of the drag link, this is a dangerous condition and should be reversed immediately. I can't recall seeing an important installation like this one even close to this example in terms of sheer stupidity.
|
|
| TomO | -- 11-10-2014 @ 7:25 AM |
|
All 3 generators are 2 brush generators and will work with the 41 wiring. As far as fitting a 36 engine into a 41 car, I can not help you with the specifics as I have never tried it. I suspect that you will have to some modifications due to the differences between the engines. The fan location is different, the hose outlets for cooling are different and the exhaust system id different. There may be other differences as well. Tom
|
|
| Neverdone | -- 01-22-2015 @ 3:41 PM |
|
Hello all, I would like to update this discussion and thank all of you who put up with this newbes questions . I ended up using the old generator from the 41 to replace the one off the 36 . Motor is installed and truck is running . W have snow here in Northern Michigan [ 102 inches so far ] but I just could not help but to take it out the lane for a test drive . Well I got stuck and one of Michigan's finest , a State Policeman , did not miss a beat in helping me push it off the ice patch . It is in the other part of the barn for further action in the spring. Thanks again Dan
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=7891 |