| DEAN333 | -- 09-03-2012 @ 1:31 PM |
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Guys, please review my last post on this issue. Gas still oozing from accelerator pump hole. TIM CARLIG
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-05-2012 @ 7:52 AM |
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Gave up the ghost, I am replaceing the carburetor. TIM CARLIG
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| large logo | -- 09-07-2012 @ 12:05 PM |
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Don't be mislead by the misinformation you may have been reading in previous posts. I hate to see a Stromberg get the best of anyone. Send me your carb and I'll give it a clean bill of health and return it to you for the price of gaskets and return postage.
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-07-2012 @ 12:12 PM |
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Thanks, Ken in CT. rebuilt my pump earlier and he was going to exchange my carb but since I had it so clean and did the emulsion tubes right he went over it and is sending it back. Cost me $195 tho. TIM CARLIG
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| 40 Coupe | -- 09-08-2012 @ 4:04 AM |
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For your "oozing" problem are you using a leather or plastic accelerator pump (you want leather the plastic do not hold up)? did you clean the bore for the accelerator pump (smooth and without any deep scratches)? If you operate the accelerator pump without the engine running does the gas ooze out when the accelerator pump is depressed (or does it ooze out at idle, if at idle, the accelerator pump is not the problem)? Do you have an electric fuel pump beside the mechanical? What is the fuel pressure (2 to 2 1/2 lb no more)? Do you have the steel fuel inlet valve needle (do not want the vitron tip they also do not hold up)? This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 9-8-12 @ 4:21 AM
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| ken ct. | -- 09-10-2012 @ 7:28 PM |
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As far as i know nitrel rubber pumps are not being made for stroms. His float was not closing off the needle cause the curl on the adj. end of the float was hitting up against the inside of the bowl beforethe needle was closed plus was rubber [n/g] used orig steel one and readjusted float and generally did a rebuild on it. Also 1 mj was a.048 and 1 was a .045. Dont match. Was a nice candidate for a rebuild and came out real nice. ken ct.
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-10-2012 @ 7:47 PM |
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I had used the carb kit from C&G which came with a rubber tipped needle. Ken did a great job on the re-rebuild. Ken is fabulous. One day turn-a-round on his fuel pump and carb work too! TIM CARLIG
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-11-2012 @ 11:18 AM |
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Before I ordered the new line from the tank to the firewall and a new flex line I decided to crawl under and look things ovew since everything I do on this car yeilds a surprise. No different here! I found someone had mounted an electric fuel pump along the frame without the wiring. One of the rubber hoses at the electric pump has a crack at the top. TIM CARLIG
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| supereal | -- 09-11-2012 @ 2:25 PM |
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It was likely not fuel proof. We find all kinds of tubing installed in fuel lines. There is nothing wrong with tubing designed for the purpose. Just be sure to use barbs where the hose connects, and worm screw clamps. Non resistant hose swells, admitting air. It hardens and splits as it ages. Fuel proof rubber hose isn't cheap, but is absolutely necessary. Too many try vacuum hose, instead.
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-16-2012 @ 6:24 AM |
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Took off the electric fuel pump yesterday, popped the top and found loads of crud on the screen. Was in the process of preparing to replace the line from the tank to the firewall. I really don't want to drop the tank tho. What's the best kind of fuel filter to install and where so when I change it for maintenance I won't have to worry about how to stop the gas flow while I'm changing it. See the following pic of the electric pump screen. TIM CARLIG
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-16-2012 @ 6:27 AM |
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Oh....when I first started diagnosing my die-out problem....I never found any gunk on the screen or in the fuel pump sediment bowl. No junk in the carb either other than normal wear and tear. TIM CARLIG
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| TomO | -- 09-16-2012 @ 9:28 AM |
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Tim, The easiest place to install a fuel filter is between the tank line and the fuel pump, replacing the flex line. That said, if you don't have a problem with junk in the tank, you probably don't need a fuel filter. Modern cars need them to prevent the small passages from being blocked. The fuel pump sediment bowl and screen will catch all the particles that could cause a problem. Tom
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| supereal | -- 09-16-2012 @ 11:05 AM |
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We install a generic inline fuel filter as close to the tank as possible, and before an inline electric pump, if you have one. While we prefer the Fram-type metal cased filter, to protect against road damage, the plastic ones work as well. You never know when a gas station has run their storage tank low and presented you with crud from the bottom. Most stations have to pay upon delivery of fuel, so at today's prices, that can be a lot of cash. They run storage down as far as possible. The screen and sediment bowl will catch some, but not as much as an inline filter. If your line from the tank to the carb is already rusty and dirty, it doesn't take much to create a stall. I carry a spare filter in my road kit.
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