| GNWolohon | -- 05-04-2012 @ 9:03 AM |
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I had my 1941 convertible out yesterday & finally got the convertible top to go up & down, so I could take a drive with the top down. I lubed the screw mechanism & the rotating parts with graphite. The Switch seemed to be working erratically. I thought about spraying some contact cleaner in the switch, but I didn't because I was afraid that I might damage this switch. Any suggestions on how to get this switch to work better? I looked @ C&G & Dennis Carpenter, but hey don't show convertible switches. The 1941 uses 2 electric motors that run screw jacks rather than hydraulic operation. Thanks. Larry
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| supereal | -- 05-04-2012 @ 9:16 AM |
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The electric screw method was supposed to be quicker and more reliable than the vacuum system used on the '40. Unfortunately, it had its own problems, usually due to one jack being out of sync with the other, causing the top to jam. If one works, the switch is likely not the cause. If disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication don't help, contact Hydro-E-Lectric at hydroe.com, or 800/343-4261. They specialize in convertible parts. If you think having two troublesome jacks is tough, think of the owners of the Skyliner retractable hardtops with many of them. One would have thought Ford learned their lesson decades ago.
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| 42ford | -- 05-04-2012 @ 5:58 PM |
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Both the 41 and 42 used the same switch, but the jacks were not the same. Do your top motors work when you pull or push the switch? The motors are under the rear seat. Check them for frayed wires or a bad ground. In 10 years I have one seen 1 switch for sale.
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| GNWolohon | -- 05-04-2012 @ 9:07 PM |
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Supereal, Thanks for the info!
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| GNWolohon | -- 05-04-2012 @ 9:11 PM |
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My '41 switch works the motors both wnen you push it in, lowers the top & when you pull it out, it makes the top raise. The 2 electric motors are on each side of the back seat, not under the rear seat.
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| 42ford | -- 05-05-2012 @ 5:00 AM |
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no matyter. The 42 s are under the rear seat. Please check the wireinfg. What state you in?
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| TomO | -- 05-05-2012 @ 7:19 AM |
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Contact cleaner will not damage the switch. If it is operating erratically, you may have to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts and lube the switch with corrosion inhibiting grease, not dielectric grease. Use a voltmeter to check that the voltage is or is not going though the switch when you activate it. I don't have a wiring diagram for the top mechanism, but you might check to see if there is an interlock switch that prevents the motor from over driving the jacks when the top is closed or fully open. Tom
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| GNWolohon | -- 05-05-2012 @ 9:06 AM |
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I am in in Michigan, in the Detroit area. Thanks
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| 42ford | -- 05-06-2012 @ 10:45 AM |
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Long before you try to take the switch apart, Check The grounds at the motors. They should each have a separate wire to ground. I have a 41 body parts man. It has a wiring diagram in it
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| supereal | -- 05-06-2012 @ 4:03 PM |
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Almost always, the problem is due to one motor not keeping up with the other. If they work together, it is usually a rare event. That is why the system was used in two different ways in 41 and 42, then abandoned. The retractable hard tops used two cables, sort of like big speedometer cables, connected to a single motor. Even so, the retractables were almost impossible to keep in adjustment. Only hydraulics could operate the intricate top mechanisms with some sort of dependability.
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| tbirdhandyman | -- 05-07-2012 @ 1:46 PM |
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Hi Larry, I just sold a NOS top switch to a man in CA. The reason I sold it was that I took my original switch apart and cleaned it up and it was good to go. In fact, I took all of the NOS switches I used in my restoration and cleaned them up before installing them. Just be careful with the tabs, but if you break one, a tie-rap will hold it in place. I know where there is another NOS switch if yours cannot be fixed. Robert E. Tbirdhandyman
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| wmsteed | -- 05-08-2012 @ 10:14 AM |
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In 1953 I installed the '41 conv electric lift motor assemblies, wiring harness and switch, in my '36 Ford cpe to raise and low the trunk deck lid remotely from the dash. The system has worked great with just an occasional oiling of the screw shafts from time to time. The only trouble I have had was when a clown tried to get in my trunk one night using a pry bar of some kind to pry the lid up.. I surmised that he was intent on steeling the lifts. Of course the deck lid did not move, the body around the lid was badly bent. Throughout the years many people have tried to buy the lift assembly from me for use on a '41 convertible. I don't want to sell the assembly or any part of it, it is part of the character of my car.. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| GNWolohon | -- 06-07-2012 @ 1:15 PM |
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Robert, Thanks for the info!!! How does one remove the switch? My pull button screw off, but how do you unscrew the rest, it looks like there is a chrome piece that screws on the shaft that holds the switch in place. Thanks, Larry
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| supereal | -- 06-07-2012 @ 1:34 PM |
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I'm not familiar with the '41 top switch, but it is likely that there are not separate contacts for each motor, and that they both receive power from one set. Check the wiring harness from the switch to the motors to confirm this. If you find that the motors are operated from a common source, you can avoid the possibility of damaging the hard to find switch. Usually, if one motor runs, the other should too. Top motors are akin to the type used on power windows, and tend to operate at individual rates, if they run at all. If one motor is slow to take off, or turns a bit more slowly, the top will jam. That is why that system was only used in 41 and 42.
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| Fhower | -- 02-22-2019 @ 10:13 AM |
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I found your long past post on the forum. I too am working on a 41 convertible. It has a new top but no motors. I am not sure what I am looking for. Would you happen to have a picture of the motors and the switch? Really appreciated it!
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| supereal | -- 03-03-2019 @ 2:29 PM |
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When I found my '47 convertible, the pump, cylinders, and helper springs were all missing. I found most of the items at Hydro-Electric (941-639-0437) or hydroe.com. The only unacceptable part was the double pole double throw dash switch. The pump draws considerable current, particularly when raising the top. I designed and built a control box that is operated by the switch. The wiring from the battery must be at least #8 gauge to achieve satisfactory operation of the top. The original depended on both motors. This usually means that they have to be rebuilt to keep them matched.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 03-04-2019 @ 6:35 AM |
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I use LPS #1 on electrical rehostats for cleaning and lubricating. Great for locks and safes also. Have used it on all types of electrical switches. Not harmful to plastic or rubber, the liquid dries to a dry lubricant so it does not attract dirt. Check it out on the web.
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