| j.grif | -- 03-05-2012 @ 5:58 PM |
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Took both springs apart,cleaned and applied grease and reinstalled along with new shackles. Must have done something wrong because now the car is way too rocky from side to side. Kind of like being in a boat. Too much grease or not enough torque on the U bolts??
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| kubes40 | -- 03-05-2012 @ 6:17 PM |
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The ubolts (nuts) are drawn up to set point, cotter pins installed so you can discount that theory if in fact you have the pins installed. Is the spring centered within the cross member? If the spring is in fact installed correctly, I'd guess the spring is simply worn out. Once you cleaned away the grooves that were cut in the adjacent leaves and greased everything, it is now free to move as it should. The problem remains in that it is an old (and tired) spring. I'd suggest getting a NOS spring or at the very least a NOS main leaf. You will be amazed the difference this will make in the ride and handling...
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| 40 Coupe | -- 03-06-2012 @ 5:06 AM |
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You may want to look at the performance of your shock absorbers, they should dampen a lot of the rocking. If you have the original 36 shocks they take a glycerin fluid which is available, do not overfill. Also look at the shock links make sure there is no play there.
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| trjford8 | -- 03-06-2012 @ 7:53 PM |
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If you used the original spring center bolt with the square head you may have not set it so that the sides of the head are parallel with the edges of the spring. that head must be ;dead on" to get it to pop into the square hole in the crossmwmber.Reach up to the top of the crossember and see if the bolt head is protruding into the hole of the crossmember. If not it will cause the problem you describe.
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| supereal | -- 03-07-2012 @ 9:25 AM |
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If the head of the center bolt is properly seated in the crossmember, as set out above, and the spring shackles are the correct length, 1.56" between the centers of the holes, count the spring leaves. The '36 should have either 12 or 13 leaves on each spring. Sometime in '36, the number of leaves was increased. There is no reason given, but it is likely that the heavier car required the change. Many old Fords had their springs swapped with junkyard pieces, so they may be too light. In any case, good shocks are absolutely necessary to control sway. Unless you are sure your lever shocks are working properly they need to be rebuilt, replaced, or tube shocks installed. I have rebuilt springs by taking them apart, cleaning them, and grinding out the pockets made by the leaf above, only to have the car respond by nearly jumping off the ground on uneven roads.
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| kubes40 | -- 03-07-2012 @ 11:49 AM |
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Hey Super, once again (no surprise) you've offered great advice. I always insist upon NOS springs when I restore a car. It truly makes a huge difference in the ride characteristics. Plus, the car simply looks better when it is restored to the designed height. NOS springs are tough to locate but well worth the effort and cost.
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| supereal | -- 03-07-2012 @ 3:51 PM |
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Thanks, Mike. New springs are not expensive. I got some from Chassis Engineering. I don't like re-arching, as the metal is often fatigued, and loses resilience.
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| kubes40 | -- 03-07-2012 @ 4:36 PM |
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I agree about the re-arcing. I have found it does not hold too long. I have attached a photo of two main leafs. One was NOS when installed in 1975. This car was never driven since its restoration. The leaf behind that is a NOS main leaf. Anyone notice the difference? Amazing what just having the weight of the car on the spring does. To think one can simply clean up a spring and reinstall it... well, this should offer some insight as to why I won't reuse an old spring. This message was edited by kubes40 on 3-7-12 @ 4:36 PM
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| j.grif | -- 03-18-2012 @ 11:18 AM |
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Another lesson learned about this old car. Both front shocks were inop,no resistance at all. Replaced with new tube shocks from c&g and back to better stability while driving. Thanks
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