| 1933 | -- 09-25-2011 @ 1:48 PM |
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My 33 runs excellent. If I stay under 45 mph there is no foam in the radiator. When I go a little faster, foam sets up and pushes the water out of the radiator. I did put on Skips water pumps and a new radiator. I feel that if I put in the water pressure regulator in it may stop the foam, but Henry did not so why should I. If I take off two of the four vanes on each pump, would this make less foam? I did check for cracks in the block and looked for a blown headgasket, Had the heads milled and put on new headgaskets. What do you think?
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| BrianCT | -- 09-25-2011 @ 3:42 PM |
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I have the same set up and had the same problem. I now run straight water with 'water wetter' in weather above 40 degrees and have no problem. I drain it and save it for next year each Nov. and put in 50/50 antifreeze for storage.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-25-2011 @ 6:53 PM |
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1933 I had the same problem on my 37, did the SKIPS pumps and,pressure valve,and 1 1/2 year later did not add any coolant, the pressure valve works,and it holds pressure.after sitting all winter in a garage also make sure you coolant system is filled AT operating temp,this will help from foaming, you must have a certain amount of air to get foam. using PEAK. is one of the better to control foaming, hope this helps,37RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 09-25-2011 @ 8:16 PM |
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Foaming in non pressurized systems is normal. In my Model A days, we used Sierra antifreeze, as it tends to produce less foam, and ran just water if the season allowed. Don't modify the water pumps. I don't have experience with Skip's overflow valve, but others report improvement in retaining coolant. If you are losing coolant from the radiator cap, it is likely the gasket should be replaced. Due to the roads, etc, not many drove faster than 45, so there were few complaints back when you car was new.
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| drkbp | -- 09-26-2011 @ 5:23 AM |
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1933, Early water pump in head engines do that and any good water pump will do exactly what you describe. Your car came with thermostats when new. This spring I posted a parts book drawing of the types used in the '33-'36's. None are listed for 1932. Any will work but I run two of the same in my '35. Ken in Texas
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| 37 Coupe | -- 09-26-2011 @ 7:01 AM |
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37 RAGTOPMAN your radiator must be different then mine.No way you should need or use the Skips valve when you can use a 4lb pressure cap at least on my radiator and most 37 I have seen,mayby earlier ones were different.
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| supereal | -- 09-26-2011 @ 10:16 AM |
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Skip's valve is designed to prevent coolant loss out of the overflow. It does provide some radiator pressure, but likely isn't enough to supress foam. Modern cars use an overflow bottle, but older cars don't have the correct radiator neck to accomodate The required cap.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-26-2011 @ 5:22 PM |
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37COUPE I never found a 37 radiator 4 lb cap[ is that a original FORD 4 lb cap?] that would fit my neck,the modern ones as far as I know do not fit,so I sealed it off at the top and put in a SKIP, overflow pressure valve and it maintans pressure OVER THE WINTER,which should tell you something, also been driving a MODEL A since 68 and do not have ANY foaming PROBLEMS. about 30,000 miles.so do not know , what they think might be happening. air has to mix with coolant to have foam,so was not raditator was not full to start with, if you have your car running and are looking at the coolant and it is foaming you have other problems,you should fill the radiator when warm, using distilled water with out chemicals that is in town water,,and MIXING the coolant correctly ,50-50 this is all I use ALL YEAR LONG. when driving my 37 on the highway at 60 it runs a operating temp, drove it to the NATIONAL V8 MEET in SARATOGA SPRINGS in NEW YORK STATE, this SUMMER almost 800 miles and NO COOLANT ADDED,and over the mountains up and down, though VERMONT,and NEW HAMPSHIRE.from Maine. so this PRESSURE VALVE works for me, and for the $28.00 is well worth it, call Skip and ask him, my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN,
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| 37 Coupe | -- 09-26-2011 @ 6:59 PM |
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The pressure cap I am using on my 37 radiator is the 4lb one most all vendors sell,like Macs it is Ford part#41A-8100-A. Mayby yours is an earlier one that has a different neck. If your 3lb check valve holds pressure over the winter in your radiator that is pretty incredible,pretty deep for my loafers, but pretty incredible.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-27-2011 @ 5:25 AM |
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37coupe I was amazed myself that I heard a pop. when removing the radiator cap. I am using a orginal cap,that I made seals for,, so it will not leak pressure out. as Skip suggested. and it works for me, I will have to check out MAC's. I usually do not buy aftermarket parts if possible. I like the original for working and fitting, I used to restore cars and grew a dislike for the new imported parts. so stay away for the most part. my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN take care of your loafers, I enclosed a picture of my 37
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| 37 Coupe | -- 09-27-2011 @ 7:17 AM |
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I aggree on the foreign parts and think it is really sad that a radiator cap cannot be made in the USA anymore,especially by an old established company like Stant. I do believe that the 41A cap I mentioned whether bought from Carpenter,Drake or Mac's is China made but unlike most China items that only have to look the part they have worked for me. I bought a radiator cap to replace original Stant one on my Explorer awhile back and it was Stant but made in the great indusrial country of Israel,wonder if they make any of them in Michigan anymore,think that is where company was for 100 years.
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| supereal | -- 09-27-2011 @ 9:31 AM |
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Take a look at page 106 in the C&G online catalog www.cgfordparts.com They have a whole page of various styles and pressures of radiator caps. They also stock a repair kit for the early 32-34 and 32-36 caps. As for foreign made parts, granted that there is a quality problem. If you get bad stuff, send it back and change vendors. When you order from any vendor, be sure of their return policy, or you may either be stuck with the piece, or have to pay a "restocking charge". Like it or not, the stock of NOS and NORS parts is mostly gone at any price. When you find a reliable source of parts, support the vendor. Bad parts are a plague on the hobby, but at our shop, we see lots of poor quality on parts for late models, too. Offshore parts my be "iffy", but it is likely there is litle or no alternative in this economy.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-27-2011 @ 10:07 AM |
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I wonder about pages of raditator caps, and how accurate they are. just imagine if they were not tested and blew your radiator up, or release early not doing what they suppose to do? I would like to see someone do a testing survey on good these repros really are.and get back to us, atleast SKIP'S are made in the USA, and he stands behind what he makes, my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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| 37 Coupe | -- 09-27-2011 @ 12:20 PM |
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I would be more inclined to worry about your little Skips valve failing shut than a 4 lb radiator cap going bad. Most caps I have ever needed to replace failed open and leaked coolant out. I know I will suffer the wrath of GM and I know the little valve has helped bandaid a lot of Fords building too much pressure and loosing coolant. Do you really think Ford engineers designed the overflow tube to hold pressure? That is like putting a valve on a downspout. You had better hope that rust or someother gunk does not accumulate on top of the valve,I know they are stainless but you had better make sure every year that the tube and valve are clean,pity the guy who forgets about this for a few years or sells vehicle to someone unknowing. Wonder which would blow first a radiator seam or the tube?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-27-2011 @ 1:13 PM |
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I maintain my cooling system. changing the antifreeze every few years to make sure there is no RUST. give this some thought, what about millions of cars with overflow tubes going to tanks, they hold pressure some up to 15 lbs, not just 3 or 4 . I never heard of somebody having problems with SKIPS valve,if there is any let me hear about it, looks fool proof to me, I been driving my 37 since the late 1970's.and always added water, esp on hot days, and with the valve on, it has not needed to be filled once so far, and runs cooler, what you have to do is do what works for you, and the valve works for me,and hundreds of others, my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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| 1933 | -- 09-28-2011 @ 5:42 PM |
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Thanks to everyone who responded. I like the idea of running straight water in the summer and anti freeze in the winter but I have aluminum heads that corrode easily. I may try Skips pressure valve . How do I attach it to the overflow line? Will Skip be at Hershey?
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| supereal | -- 09-29-2011 @ 7:00 AM |
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When we say "straight water", we mean to also say to install a bottle of anti rust, too. It is a water soluble oil that coats the water jacket, and lubes the water pumps. It is a good idea to use demineralized water to prevent lime formation. Aluminum heads are subject to corrosion, particlarly if the coolant is allowed to get old and become acidic. However, many have lasted decades with good care. The biggest problem is to get the heads off, as they tend to stick to the studs. There isn't much you can do to prevent that. As for Skip's valve, it attaches to the end of the overflow tube, and will come with instructions.
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