| MICHV8 | -- 07-21-2011 @ 8:50 AM |
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I have the heads off a 37 block and the cylinders look good, but the valve guides appear shot. I will check the rings, but never did a valve job before. Other than the long bar, any special tools to help disassembly? I'm guessing the exhaust guides will be the most stubborn. Any advice or publications? Thanks folks...
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| BrianCT | -- 07-21-2011 @ 9:46 AM |
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You are right about valve guides being a pain. If they are worn then you may also need to replace the valves . In that case you could just remove the bottom spring keeper to release some of the pressure , then raise the valve as much as possible and drive the guide down from above.
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| oldford2 | -- 07-21-2011 @ 12:56 PM |
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Can you provide more detail. Why did you start this project? Engine burning oil, low compression. Have you removed the intake yet? Is the engine in or out of the car? This message was edited by oldford2 on 7-21-11 @ 4:05 PM
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| MICHV8 | -- 07-21-2011 @ 7:02 PM |
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Glad to! Bought a car with no engine. Bought engine. Engine out of car. Removed heads, but not manifold. Valves have too much wiggle room. Don't see rust. This message was edited by MICHV8 on 7-21-11 @ 7:03 PM
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| TomO | -- 07-22-2011 @ 7:39 AM |
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IMHO, you would be better off having the engine rebuilt before installing it in the car. Just doing a valve job, without knowing the condition of the engine, could lead to having to do the work over after installing the engine in the car. You did not say whether you know if the engine burns oil or if it has sufficient compression, or the bearings are in good condition. Disassembling the engine to determine condition and not doing the repair work is never a good idea as you will have to do the work some time later. Tom
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| juergen | -- 07-22-2011 @ 5:08 PM |
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As far as getting the valves out, welcome to flathead h*ll. By the book the long bar will get the valve guide down to take out the horse shoe clip. Then you could use the bar to push up the entire assembly. Nice dream but the guides are usually stuck in place. So you can use the bar to get the U shaped spring retainer off the tulip valve end. Then you can push the valve up so that a special dog leg tool can be used to knock down the guides to remove the horse shoe clip that holds the valve guide in place. However I don't know anyone who sells this tool. I just got done taking apart a 37 where the crank was not stuck but the valve guides were. Half way through the dissassembly with the hardened tool, it broke. Now the last resort approach is to say good bye to those mushroomed valves and replace them with 49-53 valves and guides. If this is your choice, after lifting the valve up, break off the face of the valve, use the bar to force the spring out the bottom and then drive the stuck guides down with a punch. Replace with a 49-53 drive train and with adjustable lifters. No one will see it and you can do the work yourself.
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| MICHV8 | -- 07-22-2011 @ 7:56 PM |
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juergin: I like that idea...thanks for the tip.
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| MICHV8 | -- 07-22-2011 @ 7:56 PM |
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any suggestions for suppliers This message was edited by MICHV8 on 7-22-11 @ 8:21 PM
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-23-2011 @ 7:07 AM |
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I had one engine were it was pretty rusted up, what I did was raise the valve and cut the heads off with a cutting torch, being I was going to install everything new anyway, and just soaked everthing with RUST BUSTER,and drove the guides out, if you have all the FORD TOOLS,you might be able to save a few parts, but not really worth it, being it is a lot of work to do once, and a lot more work if you have to redo it, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN you have to rememeber Ford had many tools to remove the valve train, do your reserch
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| juergen | -- 07-23-2011 @ 3:25 PM |
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Speedway sells a stainless steel set for about $350 Joblotauto in NY sells a complete set for $250.
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