| flatfoot | -- 06-30-2011 @ 12:26 PM |
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How can I get detailed how to instructons to install new front seal for windshield?
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| TomO | -- 07-02-2011 @ 9:45 AM |
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Contact Don Rogers, the Club's 36 Adviser. Tom
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| flatfoot | -- 07-12-2011 @ 1:22 PM |
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I'd like to get his email address, anyone know it?
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| wmsteed | -- 07-13-2011 @ 9:40 AM |
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Installing a new windshield rubber seal on a '36 Ford is quite simple... The hardest part usually is removing the frame assembly from the car. Here are the required steps: Crank windshield out to full deployment. Remove screws holding crank out mech @ windshield frame. Remove visors and header panel. Remove screws that attach pivot arms to frame. Note!! you will need assistance to help hold the windshield while the pivot screws are removed. The screws can be very hard to remove so you should make sure you have the proper size screw driver. Lay the windshield on a flat surface (table). Using a small putty knife or gasket scr*per carefully remove the old rubber seal from the frame.. If the rubber is old and brittle this can be a chore. Once the rubber is removed, carefully clean the channel with a wire brush. Apply a metal prep to neutralize and rust, prime and paint black. Install the new rubber.. DO NOT CEMENT THE RUBBER IN WITH ANY KIND OF GLUE. Reinstall windshield into vehicle. If the windshield has not been out of the car in many years and your car is native to any of the rust belt areas, most of the screws will strip the slot out and/or break off, which will require drilling out the old screws and re-threading the holes. This is a good time to consider putting a new windshield into the frame only four more screws hold the frame together. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe This message was edited by wmsteed on 7-13-11 @ 9:44 AM
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| flatfoot | -- 07-19-2011 @ 2:17 PM |
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Thanks, Bill, got the windshield out okay and the rubber ready to reinstall. I only have to put the metal prep in. Think I should that 415 black paint looking stuff?
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| trjford8 | -- 07-19-2011 @ 8:00 PM |
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Make sure the channel for the gasket is clean and has no remnanats of the old gasket. I use a dental pick to get dowm in the channel to check for old rubber. The POR-15 should work, but make sure it does not build up in the channel. This will not allow the rubber to sit down properly inn the channel.
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| wmsteed | -- 07-20-2011 @ 7:31 AM |
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As earlier stated, make sure the rubber channel/grove is completely free of any rust and/or residue of the old rubber... When I referred to a metal prep I should have more clearly said "one of the rust transformer" type of metal prep. There are several of this type of metal prep on the market. I am not to sure about the POR-15 for a finish paint.. My experience with POR-15 is that it is an excellent product, however, it tends to be a little thick which could effect the proper seating of the rubber seal. Satin-gloss Rustolium might be better, it can be sprayed right out of the can. You should spay the whole frame not just the rubber channel. Of course if the frame is a Delux chrome frame you would not spay the exterior chrome. Originally, the chrome frames were painted satin-gloss on the inside. Many people like to leave the inner part of the frame a dull chrome because they think it looks neat, actually it looks kind of dumb from the inside of the car. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| flatfoot | -- 07-21-2011 @ 9:11 AM |
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Hey Thanks, Bill. I will take your advice and use the Rustoleum satin paint. I agree leaving it satin chrome does look dumb from the inside. Thanks again.
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