| planojc | -- 09-11-2010 @ 7:13 AM |
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My banjo housing leaks gear oil at the seam between the axle housing and the banjo. This is not a slow leak so I want it fixed. My question is can I take the tension off the spring with a spreader, loosen the bolts on the side of the banjo enough to separate the axle housing and apply a sealant. I assume that I also need to loosen the axle nut on that side. Anything else? Thanks
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| 40guy | -- 09-11-2010 @ 7:33 AM |
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I'm not sure how much success you would have with the backing plates and rear wishbone still in place. It's too early in the day for my mind to be working good, but I would think the wishbone would have to be loosened from the backing plate.
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| Stroker | -- 09-11-2010 @ 8:47 AM |
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If it is the left side (facing forward) parting line, the clearance between the banjo and the axle bell determines ring gear/pinion lash as well as the running clearance for both left and right differential carrier bearings. If you separate at this point to clean the mating surfaces, you WILL have to re-shim with a new gasket of appropriate thickness, after cutting it at the top to allow it to pass the axle shaft. In any case, I'd think that the best approach would be to pull the rear axle, and do it the way Henry intended. Whichever side you separate will need to have the hub pulled, and the radius rod dropped.
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| bo8109b | -- 09-11-2010 @ 8:54 AM |
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Not only disconnecting the wishbone but also the brake line and the shackle plates. Then you would have to let the residue gear oil drain for days to the last drip so your sealer won't be contaminated when you reassemble the axel housing.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-11-2010 @ 9:59 AM |
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was wondering if someone restored the car? and replaced the bolts with ones that are to long,or too short and not tighting the banjo housing? did you try tightning the bolts up? take a few out and measure them to see if right length, also were is the leak exactly? is it coming out from under the bolt heads,? or on the seams,I would think if you cleaned the housing off with a wire wheel and drained the oil out, you might see were exactly were the leak is. also you could use a sealer from the outside, use very little so you not see it,[ use a paint brush and a few layers ] and use a sealer that can be painted, clean it off and find out were. but if you are up to it,,NOT A EASY JOB,GET HELP,,, pull the rear out and reseal it, The V8 SHOP in BALLSTON SPA, has a nice set of gaskets-shims. that are different thicknesses,so you can get the right clearences , of end play between the ring gear and pinion, also when cleaned up, be sure to check for cracks,in the housings. hope this helps,ALL FORD REAR SEEP OIL? if driven, 37 RAGTOPMAN an KEEP ON FORDIN!!!!!! loosing up the bolts and replacing the gaskets will not work, its either sealing it or taking it apart and finding what exactly the problem is, and use a spring spreader, the rear spring is DANGEROUS,!!!!!!!! SO BE CAREFUL,,,,,, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-11-10 @ 10:02 AM
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| supereal | -- 09-11-2010 @ 11:28 AM |
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Most leakage between the banjo and the axle housings is the result of trying the stem the leak by cinching down the bolts, thus squashing the gasket(s). As noted above, the thickness of the gaskets sets the gear mesh. While preferable to do a full disassembly and reset, you can try one of the "shade tree" fixes we did many years ago. Loosen the bolts and pry the housing enough to allow a couple of turns of cotton string around the bolt circle, then retighten. Also, using 140 weight oil instead of the more common 80-90 can slow down the leak in many cases. This message was edited by supereal on 9-11-10 @ 11:29 AM
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| keith oh | -- 09-11-2010 @ 11:58 AM |
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To make sure of ventalation remove one of the top bolts and drill a small hole lengthways through it to releave pressure in the banjo. This should be done regardless of whatever repairs you may choose.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 09-11-2010 @ 4:25 PM |
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I have been using dental floss for years, an old line mechanic told me about this. Wrap around the bolts after loosing them from the housing and prying apart.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-11-2010 @ 6:37 PM |
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Planojc, While a used car lot solution to the problem may work for a while, the basic problem is not addressed, and an incorrect clearance is set up for the ring/pinion, which will, in time, self destruct. To do the job right is to put it on the bench where you can stand up to work. Not as difficult as it seems, and a lot more comfortable. You may get lucky, however, as someone else suggested that the bolts may be leaking rather than the banjo/axle housing. If you can confirm this, the job is easy: All the bolts go through the banjo, which means that every bolt must have sealant on the threads. Residual sealant can be easily wirebrushed off the axle housing before it sets up. Use sealant, not threadlock. Locktite is one brand. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 9-11-10 @ 6:39 PM
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| supereal | -- 09-12-2010 @ 10:18 AM |
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Be sure to check the oil level in the rear end, and try to keep it slightly below the filler. The oil that escapes from the transmission travels down the torque tube into the rear end, and can overfill it. If you remove the filler plug, it is not unusual to find that considerable oil drains out. Overfilling usually shows up as external leakage in excess of normal. The good part of the process is that the oil does lubricate the u-joint and both drive shaft bearings on the way down. That is probably why they last so long. I agree with Alan that disassembly is the best remedy, but unless you are experienced, it is a job that is mostly beyond the weekend hobbyist. Unless the gasket adjustment is very far off, most will not see much, if any, difference. The old Ford rear end is one of the most durable ever made. This message was edited by supereal on 9-12-10 @ 10:25 AM
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| 39 Ken | -- 09-13-2010 @ 5:01 AM |
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To Keith Oh, Your comment quoted here; "To make sure of ventalation remove one of the top bolts and drill a small hole lengthways through it to releave pressure in the banjo. This should be done regardless of whatever repairs you may choose." Why "should" this be done to a stock rear in a stock drive train? Ken
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| supereal | -- 09-13-2010 @ 12:41 PM |
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That's a new one for me, too.
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| Stroker | -- 09-13-2010 @ 1:55 PM |
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I've never seen that done either. Perhaps the thought is that the final drive needs venting. The final drive IS vented, since none of the pinion bearings carry seals, and the torque tube is like a chimney. Maybe that's a 48 pickup thing, given the fact that it has an open drive shaft. Tell me more, I may be missing something.
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