| 1933 | -- 09-07-2010 @ 6:19 PM |
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I have a 33 V8 Ford that runs just fine. I have Skips waterpumps and a new radiator. When the car is driven under 42 mph the coolant is just fine. When driven a little faster the coolant will foam and push a little coolant out of the radiator overflow. Is there a recommended anti freeze I should be using? I do have aluminum heads so I should not use straight water. Any ideas.
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| Keystone 34 3w | -- 09-07-2010 @ 7:20 PM |
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Get some water wetter or purple ice additive.This stuff makes the water coolant cling to the metal and dissipate heat faster. I had the same problem a month ago. I also diluted the coolant to a weaker mixture and added water wetter. Did an 800 mile tour at 55-60mph trouble free. The foam in the rad was like when you pour a hot beer in a cup. I can now keep the coolant right up to the little hole in the top tank. Hope it works for you
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-07-2010 @ 7:43 PM |
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1933, Straight water is not good for any system, aluminum or not. The minimum required is a water pump lube additive, and a sacrificial anode rod to prevent electrolisis. elelctrolisis attacks the rod instead of the aluminum heads. If you can't find one at a car parts store, go to a hardware store and buy a magnesium anode rod intended for use in home water heaters. A 3" chunk of this dropped into the top tank will last several years. I('ve heard that Water Wetter is a good product, but have no experience with it. This may itself have the required water pump lube, I don't know. If you don't live where it freezes, there is no other advantage to having antifreeze in your system, and as you have found, there is a disadvantage in having foam. Alan
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-08-2010 @ 4:49 AM |
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Try using PEAK antifreeze,] lower detergent [ and only mix 50-50,as in the directions, ALSO foaming is from air, FILL THE SYSTEM when HOT, to make sure it is full, I had the same problem in my 37 to find out it was 1/2 gallon low, this caused foam to overflow out of the radiator. hope this helps, 37 RAGTOPMAN, an KEEP on TRUCKIN,,,!!! also retorque your heads a few times,and check your oil, to make sure no coolant is leaking into the crankcase,[ you will see a white foam on the oil stick and on the bottom of the oil filler cap]I had this problem with my 37 and later went to cast iron heads,and this solved this problem.
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| GM | -- 09-08-2010 @ 7:04 AM |
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Do you have Skips 3 lb pressure valve. If not water pumps out the over flow tube with or without his pumps. It is a little worce with his pumps because almost twice as much water is being circulated. The radiators on all of these old Fords have enough resistance that without a pressure cap or the 3 lb valve over a quart of coolant is lost. I have never used a standard type anti freeze that foamed when the system has a valve or pressure cap and the radiator is filled up into the neck. Foam is caused by air or a compression leak. With the radiator filled there is no room for air. I see on the test machine which is a sealed system that when stock pumps are tested for 5 minutes and the cap removed there is a sound of air being released. With the high volume pumps there is no air to be heard. This is due to the impeller configurations, the paddle wheel spins it's wheels stiring up air and the more positive drive impeller isn't doing as much slipping in the water. Fill the radiator up into the neck and run at a fast idle with the cap off. Run for a half hour with a house type fan UP AGAINST the grill watching for bubbles. If you have a compression leak the bubbles will be small at first then get larger as it gets hotter. YOU NEED TO HAVE THE RADIATOR FILLED UP INTO THE NECK to see the bubbles. You can't see them down in the tank. If the bubbles are less then 3/8" in diameter Barrs stop leak usually will seal them. Larger ones need further investigation. I had one that in a half hour it went to 229, the bubbles got larger the hotter it got and were close to 1" and at that point would spit at least a gallon of water. G.M.
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| supereal | -- 09-08-2010 @ 7:14 AM |
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Back in my Model A days, the coolant would foam enough to splatter the windshield. We tried all sorts of things, such as distilled water and additives, and discovered that Sierra brand antifreeze cut the problem considerably. I agree that the 3# valve would help to contain the overflow, but only if compression leaks are not present. If you suspect that is the cause, find a shop that can place an exhaust analyzer in the radiator neck. If combustion products are found, either a head gasket is failing, or a crack in the block has opened, and it is very likely the problem will increase.
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| fredeick | -- 03-06-2011 @ 11:32 AM |
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I have the same issue with a 1950 239 V8. Tried everything. It just foams out about 2 qts and then runs a little hot. Did you ever figure out what you could do? I was thinking of getting a 3 pound valve for the end of the overflow tube?
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| supereal | -- 03-06-2011 @ 12:43 PM |
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With your '50, I suspect that your radiator cap is either faulty, wrong for the car, or the radiator filler neck is damaged, preventing the cap from seating. Your cap should be marked with a "7", as a seven pound cap is correct. We have found gas caps on radiators that prevent pressurization, allowing aeration and loss of the coolant. However, pushing out that much coolant will make your engine run hot, in any case. Look for coolant in your oil, which would indicate an internal leak. If you see white smoke from your exhaust, a blown head gasket is likely, a a good shop can pressure test your cooling system.
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| MG | -- 03-06-2011 @ 2:20 PM |
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supereal is spot on. Have a competent radiator shop test you coolant for hydrocarbons - a sign of combustion gasses leaking/being forced into your cooling system. Don't try to mask a more serious problem with additives.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-06-2011 @ 5:32 PM |
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I had the same problem with skips pumps, it was that there was not enough coolant in the system. get his special valve and follow his instructions, and you problems are OVER, you will run cooler and not add any more coolant once you do it. I ran my all summer with no coolant added, been there done that, 37RAGTOPMAN
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| Kens 36 | -- 03-06-2011 @ 7:41 PM |
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Fredeick, Skips 3# valve is NOT intended for your '50. It is for earlier models without a pressure cap. Your '50 should have a working 4# pressure cap. A 7# can also be used, but the 4# is the correct cap. Ken
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| supereal | -- 03-06-2011 @ 8:34 PM |
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The standard cap for the '50 is the B2AZ-8100-F, 7#. Be sure you have the correct cap, and not the one for cars that have an overflow bottle. There is a difference in filler diameter between some car and truck radiators that requires the correct cap be fitted. This message was edited by supereal on 3-7-11 @ 8:58 AM
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| Kens 36 | -- 03-08-2011 @ 9:18 AM |
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Bob, Will all due respect, the original cap installed on the '49 and '50 Fords was the 4# 26H 8100-B. The 7# cap came out for the '51 Fords and its number was 1M 8100-A. Ken
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| supereal | -- 03-08-2011 @ 10:22 AM |
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My books show the 1M-8100 as a 7# cap for the 49-54 Merc, and any 49-54 Fords with the 1" neck instead of the 3/4". I didn't find the 26H in my books but, admittedly, most of my parts references predate those years, except for trucks.
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| drkbp | -- 03-08-2011 @ 11:05 AM |
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1933, You must not have the thermostats in the upper radiator hoses. If you do, I don't see how it would foam up at 50 mph unless you have other problems. Your radiator is new so I will assume it's no thermostats as no one has mentioned it and that is the easy fix, maybe. I had a similar problem years ago. I was running without thermostats in my '35. No problem running around town but on the highway we would get up to 55-60 mph and that V8 was churning. 4.11 rear end is what mine came with but 3.78 would be about as bad. Mess and got tired of that. I put thermostats in and no further problem. Water pumps push the coolant too fast at speed and churns it up and they blow the coolant out. A restrictor is what it really amounts to when at higher speed. I found a set of two new ones and they have been in the car for at least 15 years. Helps the engine warm up a little quicker too. I drove it to the office yesterday but it barely registered as it is about 70 degrees right now. I checked a couple of suppliers but you may have to hunt for the thermostats for the early cars. The two I found were new and that is what you want. They fit in the top hoses next to the radiator. Slide in the hose. Maybe some of the other folks can suggest a source. I am running a Ford radiator with a pair of stock water pumps. It's a good radiator but old. Also, I have been following the forum for about a year and a half. Everytime water pumps comes up there seems to be a rush to make them pump more coolant. I am sort of at a loss as to that, IF your radiator is good, because we spent time years ago trying to figure out how to slow the coolant down just using regular water pumps. Thermostats and large washers (I haven't done the washers but know some that have) were the only ways to keep the coolant from moving too fast. Let us know how it works out. Ken
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| supereal | -- 03-08-2011 @ 11:33 AM |
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We often hear about the coolant "moving too fast", but the faster the circulation, the better the cooling. Slowing the rate of circulation produces hotter coolant entering the radiator, and will swamp the system if the radiator isn't absolutely clear, reducing the efficiency of the heat to the air. We often had problems before cooling systems were pressurized. The Model A's had a baffle built into the top tank to try to prevent loss from the overflow tube, but it often splattered the windshield anyway. Skip Haney's pressure valve is a step in the right direction, adding about three pounds. This contains the coolant, and produces enough pressure to reduce hot spots in the heads and block. A low foam antifreeze, such as Sierra, helps, as well. Replacing an old radiator is not cheap, but in the end, it is a good investment if you drive your car much, and don't have to worry about boiling.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-08-2011 @ 11:47 AM |
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HERE WE GO AGAIN,,,!!!!!!!! TO THEMOSTAT OR NOT TO THERMOSTAT,that is the QUESTION,, to me is whats works for you, if you have foam,its has AIR in the Coolant System and is LOW on coolant, fill when OPERATING TEMP. , this way you can top off the system, 50/50 MIX, 37RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-8-11 @ 12:08 PM
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| TomO | -- 03-09-2011 @ 8:00 AM |
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Supereal, I agree with Kens 36, that the correct radiator cap for the 50 Ford V-8 is the 4 lb cap. (P/N 26H-8100B) The 7 lb cap was standard on the 52-53 6 cylinder and optional on the 51-53 V-8. My reference is the 1953 Parts catalog. Tom
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| supereal | -- 03-09-2011 @ 8:40 AM |
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Thanks, Tom. Most of my reference material after '48 is for trucks. Given a choice, I'd opt for the higher pressure, anyway, but if two quarts are kicked out, it is a safe bet something else serious is going on. A blowdown test would be in order, I think.
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