| 41fatty | -- 03-12-2026 @ 6:53 AM |
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I bought a 6v fuel pump from D. Carpenter, mounted it in my 41 Fords left framerail, just forward of the left rear wheel.Intermitant switch for the pump. My stock fuel pump is working with all new steel line, good carb, clean original fuel tank. The car will more .than ocasionaly starve for fuel, then i'd hit the switch and be off again. I suspect a pinhole/rusthole inside my pickup tube in the gas tank? Can I run my fuel pump constant till I resolve this issue? Currently it's not fused. What amperage?
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| trjford8 | -- 03-12-2026 @ 8:28 AM |
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Pump should be fused. I suspect it should have a 20 amp fuse. There should be instructions with the pump for a recommended fuse. I suspect with the occasional stalling you have some debris floating around in the tank that is occasionally blocking the pickup tube. This message was edited by trjford8 on 3-12-26 @ 8:31 AM
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| kevinshea | -- 03-12-2026 @ 8:37 AM |
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I rely solely on my electric pump and have bypassed my mechanical one... works just fine... But as suggested, I should look into fusing it. I also add an Star Tron enzyme to the tank that "eats" varnish and gum ... And for long term storage I add Sta-bil to counter the ethanol.
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| JayChicago | -- 03-12-2026 @ 10:26 AM |
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"I suspect a pinhole/rusthole inside my pickup tube in the gas tank?" You should have fuel pump with the glass sediment bowl. When your problem occurs, do you see air in the glass bowl? Another common source of pin-hole leak to break the vacuum on the suction side of the fuel pump is the flex hose leading into the pump. The hose may look good, but if over time the hose has shrunk slightly the seal at the crimped-on fittings may no longer be air-tight. You can easily test this by removing the hose and pulling a vacuum in the hose with your mouth.
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| 41fatty | -- 03-12-2026 @ 12:49 PM |
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yes, I'm getting bubbles in the fuel bowl, otherwise I'll try the vacuum in the rubber fuel line trick.
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| TomO | -- 03-12-2026 @ 2:49 PM |
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I would try a new gasket for the sediment bowl first. If your flex line is over 10 years old, you should probably replace it. Finally, check the connections to the electric pump. Any air leak on the input to the mechanical fuel pump will cause the problem that you describe. Fuel will not leak out of an air leak, so you have to make sure that all connections are secure and tight. Tom
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| 41fatty | -- 03-13-2026 @ 11:44 AM |
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Thank you, Tom, New bowl gasket and new flex hose, witch I'll still test. I've hooked up a 20A fuse to to the pump, ,will check fuel connections, including changing rubber hoses to pipe compression fittings,changing my pump inlet filter to one I can see through. Can I run my electric pump constant in line with the mechanical pump?
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| Barney | -- 03-13-2026 @ 1:46 PM |
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I had problems with my mechanical pump being undependable. I removed the pump and pushrod and installed a flat plate in it's place. A 6-volt electric pump now does the pumping; has been reliable for at least 2k miles. I also have a pressure regulator immediately upstream of the carb. The pump is fused and mounted in the left side frame rail under the driver. Barney
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| carcrazy | -- 03-13-2026 @ 2:09 PM |
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Occasional stalling can be caused by an intermittent electrical connection in the primary circuit of the ignition system.
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| TomO | -- 03-13-2026 @ 2:54 PM |
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The mechanical fuel pump needs an input that is free of air leaks. I had problems years ago when I had an electric pump and filter. I eliminated the pump and went to a solid line from the tank to the firewall and installed the filter between the steel line and the flex line. I had problems priming the carburetor, so I removed the filter and now my car starts and runs fine. IMHO you do not need a filter unless your tank is very rusty. The screen at the top of the sediment bowl and the sediment bowl is sufficient to keep debris out of the carburetor. Tom
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 03-14-2026 @ 11:04 AM |
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Not only should you install a fuse in the electric fuel pump circuit, but also a safety relay to kill the pump in the event of a crash. There was an article about types of safety switches available in the July/August 1999 issue of the V-8 Times. The last thing you want is a fire with an electric fuel pump to continuously keep running feeding the fire.
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| 41fatty | -- 03-14-2026 @ 11:13 AM |
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the pump kit came with a fuel filter so i figured why not use it.i cant find any paperwork or instructions. I guess i can use this fuel pump constant if i Have to in line with my mechanical fuel pump? I hope i don't need some kind of regulator.( more fittings, more air leaks!)
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| wlobb | -- 03-14-2026 @ 5:37 PM |
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Oddly I’m having the same problem. I found the gasket between the pump and the housing for the push rod was mangled.
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| 41fatty | -- 03-22-2026 @ 12:20 PM |
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So I removed the filter before my 6v pump, replaced the rubber fuel line with brass compression fittings, tested my relatively new correct rubber hose at the firewall/fuel pump. Clean gas tank, all new lines. Now I take the Coupe out for a nice Sunday drive and it runs amazing until I shut it down for about a half hour. It starts right up until crucial accel. and will stall right out if I don't momentary hit the 6v pump, and then good to go. I tried this drill again. After say, half hour, I'll startup , see bubbles in the glass fuel bowl. then they go away. So where can I possibly be sucking air?
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| TomO | -- 03-24-2026 @ 12:21 PM |
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41Fatty, If I understand your post correctly, your engine starts and idles fine after sitting for 30 minutes and when you put it in gear and try to drive it, it dies unless you operate the electric fuel pump. The car runs fine once you get over the initial stall. Did this happen before you installed the electric pump or afterwards? Does this happen after sitting overnight? Do you need to use the electric pump to start the car after sitting overnight? Does the engine try to stall when you try to race it right after starting up or after letting it idle for about 2 minutes? Do your spark plug firing surfaces look black and sooty? Try pulling the choke out half way when starting out after the 30 min. shutdown. Check the color of your spark when idling after the 30 minute shutdown. It should be a blue or white color. Be careful of shocks, use an insulated pliers to remove the wire and hold it near a head nut. I would like to see a couple of photos of your engine bay. One showing the left side of the engine, carburetor, fuel pump and connections. Another showing the distributor and coil. I would also like to see a photo of your electric pump installation. I will be looking for your reply. Tom
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| 41fatty | -- 03-25-2026 @ 7:00 AM |
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more photos forthcomming( I hope)
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| 41fatty | -- 03-25-2026 @ 7:42 AM |
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all stock
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| 41fatty | -- 03-25-2026 @ 7:49 AM |
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6v
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