| 1934 Ford | -- 09-04-2010 @ 5:56 AM |
|
I heard a few Model A guys talking about a new kind of head gaskets they were using on their cars. I didn't pay attention to what they were, but now need to replace my heads and wondered about what was the recommeded gasket for my 21 stud engines. Has technolgy made a better choice than copper? Any advice?
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-04-2010 @ 9:21 AM |
|
The choice today is copper or steel faced gaskets. We tend toward the steel to reduce electrolysis, but copper seems to outsell it. As long as the gaskets are good quality, I doubt you will find a difference in performance. It is a very good idea to have a machine shop inspect your heads and renew the surface if needed.
|
|
| 1934 Ford | -- 09-05-2010 @ 6:05 PM |
|
My buddy sent me this: Yes, I used a wonderful new type of head gasket marketed by Bratton's for the "A" but don't know if it is available for others. It's called "Modern Head Gasket", an improved leak resistant gasket composed of a steel core sandwiched by heavy-duty high-density gasket material soaked with silicone. A bead of high temperature silicone surrounds all water passages to ensure a positive seal between the block and head. A much improved seal over the copper gasket. Do not add gasket sealer to the gasket as it is embedded in material. I've used this modern gasket on both my "A's" and also, Keith's "A" with success... Any V8er's heard of this?
|
|
| Keystone 34 3w | -- 09-05-2010 @ 8:11 PM |
|
Most or all Model As have cast steel heads. Copper or steel faced gaskets would work well I suppose. My experience with several 34s with aluminum heads have led me to use the standard fiber gaskets with steel reenforced areas. I retorque them 3 to 4 times for the first week then have no problems. I always resuface the heads and heavily coat the gaskets with coppercoat. I torque in 10lbs increments to 50 and a bit,(I feel that my torque wrench is soft). I had( swap meet) old steel gaskets that leaked maybe because they were dried up from sitting. Someone might reply with advice with newer steel or copper gasket info for aluminum heads, Good luck.
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-06-2010 @ 8:29 AM |
|
Generally, it is not a good idea to mix aluminum heads with copper faced gaskets due to electrolysis. Aluminum heads require a rather low torque of the head nuts, 35 to 40 ft lbs, compared to 50-60 for iron, so both surfaces must be in ideal condition to prevent leakage. Because of the tendency of early aluminum to erode, many of these heads, if you can get them off, are not fit for reuse, and should be carefully inspected.
|
|
| 1934 Ford | -- 09-06-2010 @ 1:35 PM |
|
I confess, I gave up on aluminum heads 25 years ago when they started springing little leaks in the tops of the heads. For show aluminum is nice, but for drivers, 76 years is along time for aluminum heads to be reliable. I'm not ready to buy finned aluminum and the real 21 stud ones are to expensive. I know the steel ones leak too, but at least the steel ones will let go of the studs. It's a steel head car I'm going to replace the gaskets on. I hoped there was a new gasket like the Model A's use.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-10-2010 @ 1:05 PM |
|
you can use a copper spray , on the old style gaskets, it works real well, you can pick up at NAPA,or many other autoparts places, these modern gaskets, might not be any better then the old style gaskets,time will tell., some modern cars have headgasket problems. most of the old cars. the only reason you change them is when you do engine, or valve work or want to try a different head, usually once they are on they are good to go, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on TRUCKIN,,,!!!!
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-11-2010 @ 3:15 PM |
|
The usual reason for leaks out around the head nuts on any heads is the failure to put sealer on the block end of the studs when they are installed. Many times the studs are not replaced for fear of breaking one off, even though it is good practice. It is important to remember that flatheads require studs of three different lengths. The early (32-36) engines need one set, another is correct for the later 21 (37-38) stud engines, and yet another for the 38-48 engines with 24 studs. They must be placed in the correct position in the block, or the head can't be properly secured and torqued to spec, and water and/or compression leaks will follow.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=1801 |