| wlobb | -- 07-06-2025 @ 2:16 PM |
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Hi guys, it's been a while. Here's this week's dilemma: when I bought my '51 shoebox the battery was in backwards (6V negative ground) almost nothing worked, no gauges worked except the speedo, weak spark etc. I flipped back to positive ground, and I've got most things electrical back to where it should be and it runs fantastic. The fuel gauge--when it was negative ground always read empty. When I flipped it back to where it should be, positive ground, now as soon as I turn on the key it goes all the way to full. In theory the float unit should get it positive charge from the tank itself, right? The frame of the car is positive. I've included a photo. Don't ask what the gunk is over the screws, When I first saw it, I thought they JB welded the whole thing on, but the tank and float unit look quite new. I think this gunk was used to protect the screws or something. My question is on the tab of the unit do I need a ground wire? The other day my cousin and I measured resistance from the center of the float to ground and when I rocked the car the resistance went up and down, always in the 2-3 ohm range. I think if I just run a ground to the tab at about 11 o'clock position I should be in business. I think I'm just a bit nervous because, you know, this is all sitting on top of about 14 gallons of gas right now and I really don't want a spark from shorting something out... My thinking is the gasket and who knows what they used on the screws going into the tank may be insulating it from getting ground. The wire you see here at the center of the float is on the correct terminal of the gauge behind the dash. Thanks as always, you guys are the best! This message was edited by wlobb on 7-6-25 @ 2:16 PM
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| MG | -- 07-06-2025 @ 3:07 PM |
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The fuel tank sending unit you have looks to be an aftermarket unit. If you have an ohm meter, check for continuity between the unit and the tank as the tank is grounded--there should be continuity. Measure from the tab as well. As can be seen, the center connection is insulated from the rest of the unit... These aftermarket units are not compatible with the stock Ford gas gauges, as they are notoriously inaccurate. Ideally, you should replace it with the correct King-Sealy fuel sending unit if you can find one... This message was edited by MG on 7-16-25 @ 3:58 PM
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| wlobb | -- 07-06-2025 @ 3:36 PM |
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Thank you so much! ill follow your advice and test and Ill get the correct unit. I much appreciate it!
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| wlobb | -- 07-06-2025 @ 5:41 PM |
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has anyone had any luck with the Dennis Carpenter solid state sending units?
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| trjford8 | -- 07-07-2025 @ 7:56 AM |
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There's a contact sticking up on the sender and it is for a ground. Slip a ground wire on it and attach the other end of the wire to a good clean ground on the frame. No sparks from ground wires. This message was edited by trjford8 on 7-7-25 @ 7:59 AM
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| wlobb | -- 07-07-2025 @ 12:57 PM |
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Thank you. That's what I was originally thinking to try. I'll do that!
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| wlobb | -- 07-13-2025 @ 2:51 PM |
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Hi, I hooked up the positive ground to that tab and the negative side on the center of the sender and now it stays on E. No ground to the tab its stuck on F. I'm starting to think the sender is funky. I do see a variation in resistance when I shake the car up and down with my Ohmmeter hooked up, but not a big range. Has anyone had any luck with the solid-state sender from Dennis Carpenter? This message was edited by wlobb on 7-14-25 @ 4:52 AM
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