| Howie1935 | -- 06-13-2025 @ 8:45 AM |
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I've been working on my Ford sedan with 1939 Juice brakes (car is 1935). Several issues found: 1. Longer brake shoe on front or back, mechanic must not have known different lengths of brake material. 2. Master cylinder (2) leaking, replaced both 3. Hydraulic lines leaking at connections, turns out they used more than one size/type of fitting, so taped them to stop or try to stop leaking... All the above has been corrected. Last issue: The brake pedal moves about 1/2 - 3/4" before feeling resistance. I adjusted the rod between brake pedal and MC but it could not get long enough. 1. Am I missing something? 2. Rod just too short? Where do I find longer rod? 3.. I notice that there is no return spring on brake pedal and pedal slowly returns after braking, should there be a spring or is this an indicator of another issue? Thanks for your help!
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| carcrazy | -- 06-13-2025 @ 4:41 PM |
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Here are some parts that may address the problem you are having with getting the pushrod long enough to provide the recommended brake pedal free travel of 1/2". https://cgfordparts.com/catalogsearch/result/index/find/1941-4777/?find=find&finder%5B1%5D=4777&p=2&q=brake+master+cylinder If your master cylinder is functioning properly, you probably won't need an additional brake pedal return spring.
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| carcrazy | -- 06-13-2025 @ 5:06 PM |
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Master cylinder pushrod #91T-2143 for the 1 ton and heavier trucks may be longer than the #91A- 2143 used in the passenger cars. https://cgfordparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=91T-2143
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-14-2025 @ 5:38 AM |
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35 brake and clutch pedals both have return springs they use the same spring. Still using the 35 brake pedal? Adjust the master cylinder rod so it just clears the master cylinder piston, so brake fluid can return to the master cylinder. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 6-14-25 @ 5:41 AM
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| TomO | -- 06-14-2025 @ 6:51 PM |
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Brake pedal free play is adjusted so that the pedal moves about 1/4" before it touches the master cylinder piston. This is measured at the pedal. This clearance is minimum and is required to make sure that the fluid return orifice is open when the pedal is released. I listen for the metallic click of the push rod hitting the piston, while I am under the car making the adjustment. The piston will move slightly to compress the fluid before you feel resistance. If you cannot get a good pedal, you will have to adjust the anchors. The long shoe goes on the front for the Lockheed brakes. The front shoe does most of the braking when going forward. To adjust the anchors: Make sure that the anchor adjustment dots are at the center, facing each other. Back off the adjusting cam Put pressure on the brake pedal and hold it Turn the front anchor adjuster clockwise (dot moves down) until the shoe touches the drum. Back off slightly so the shoe is just not touching the drum. Hold the adjuster while tightening the lock nut. Turn the rear shoe anchor adjuster counter clockwise (dot moves down) to accomplish the same condition as the front shoe, and lock the adjustment. Release pressure on the brake pedal. Turn the adjustment cams to adjust the front and back shoes. Tom
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